BCI PRINCIPLES AND CRITERIA

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

VERSION 2.1

1 MARCH 2018

BCI

PRINCIPLES

AND CRITERIA

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Table of Contents

I. Introduction

1.1 Vision and mission

1.2 History

1.3 Theory of change

1.4 Scope

1.5 Translation accuracy disclaimer

1.6 References

1.7 Document layout

1.7.1 Structure

1.7.2 Drafting rules

II. Preamble

2.1 Objectives of this document

2.2 Effective date

2.2.1 Standard effective date

2.2.2 Transition period

2.2.3 Future reviews

Principle 1: BCI Farmers minimise the harmful impact of crop protection practices

Principle 2: BCI Farmers promote water stewardship

Principle 3: BCI Farmers care for the heath of soil

Principle 4: BCI Farmers enhance biodiversity and use land responsibly

Principle 5: BCI Farmers care for and preserve bre quality

Principle 6: BCI Farmers promote decent work

Principle 7: BCI Farmers operate an effective management system

122

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Table of Contents

III. Annexes

133

Annex 1 – Terms and denitions

135

Annex 2 – Summary of International Labour Organization conventions

143

Annex 3 – Better Cotton Initiative categorisation of farmers

146

Annex 4 – Categorising farmers & workers in the Better Cotton Standard System

147

Annex 5 – Climate change mitigation and adaptation in Better Cotton Principles and Criteria

153

Title

Better Cotton Principles and Criteria V2.1

Effective Date

1 March 2018 (V2.0)

Updated on 17 May 2019 (V2.1)

Contact

Better Cotton Initiative

7-9 Chemin de Balexert

1219 Chatelaine

Switzerland

T: +41 (0)22 93 91 250

E: standards

bettercotton.org

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

I. Introduction

1.1 Vision and mission

Vision

All cotton is Better Cotton: the Better Cotton

Initiative’s (BCI) work will be complete when

all cotton worldwide is produced sustainably.

Mission

BCI exists to make global cotton production

better for the people who produce it, better for the

environment it grows in, and better for the sector’s

future. BCI connects people and organisations

from across the cotton sector, from eld to store, to

promote measurable and continuing improvements

for the environment, farming communities and the

economies of cotton producing areas.

1.2 History

The Better Cotton Standard System (BCSS) is a

holistic approach to sustainable cotton production

which covers all three pillars of sustainability:

environmental, social and economic.

The Better Cotton Principles and Criteria (P&C)

are a critical component of the BCSS. This practice-

based standard forms the global denition of Better

Cotton. By adhering to these principles, BCI

Farmers produce cotton in a way that is measurably

better for the environment and farming communities.

The P&C provides rules and guidance to farmers

participating in BCI programmes on how to reach

BCI social and environmental sustainability

objectives.

The Better Cotton P&C were rst developed in 2010

on the basis of input and consultations with Regional

Working Groups in Brazil, India, Pakistan and West

and Central Africa; Advisory Committee members;

Better Cotton Partners; experts, critical friends and

public consultation.

After ve years of implementation, we launched a

comprehensive revision process in February 2015,

in accordance with the BCI Standard Setting and

Revision Procedure.

This procedure was developed in compliance with

the ISEAL Code of Good Practice for Setting Social

and Environmental Standards (Public Version 6-0,

December 2014) and under the guidance of ISO/IEC

Guide 59 Code of Good Practice for Standardization

(February 1994).

Introduction

P&C VERSION DATE REVISION ROUND

Better Cotton

Production Principle

and Criteria

Version 1.0

2010 The rst version of the Better Cotton P&C is adopted.

Better Cotton

Production Principle

and Criteria

Version 2.0: Draft 1

30 September

2015

First SSRC meeting

The BCI Standard Setting and Revision Committee (SSRC)

reviewed a pre-draft of the P&C.

December

2015 –

February 2016

First stakeholder consultation

The rst Public Consultation allowed stakeholders, directly

or indirectly affected by the BCI Standard implementation,

to provide input.

Better Cotton

Production Principle

and Criteria

Version 2.0: Draft 2

9 – 10 March

2016

Second SSRC meeting

Members representing each membership category had

a fruitful exchange of ideas about the best ways to improve

the P&C in light of input received from the rst stakeholder

consultation.

June – October

2016

Second draft technical review

Technical review of environmental principles by key

partners and external experts.

November 2016

Second draft technical review

External experts ensured global coherence and identied

remaining gaps in the second draft and external experts.

January

– February

2017

Second stakeholder consultation

Stakeholders involved in the rst consultation and additional

stakeholders provided input. A special effort was placed

on brand and retailer engagement, as these parties were

underrepresented in the rst edition.

Better Cotton

Principle and Criteria

Version 2.0: Draft 3

March – May

2017

Third SSRC meeting

The SSRC made sure that all fundamental credibility aspects

of sustainable cotton production were covered by the

standards and at the right level of prescription, and nalised

the second draft.

May –

November 2017

Council review

The Council met four times in the course of the year,

before approving the draft in November.

Better Cotton

Principle and Criteria

Version 2.0

1 March 2018 Launch of the new Standard.

1 March 2018 –

1 March 2019

Transition period.

1 March 2019 The new Standard is entirely applied.

Better Cotton

Principle and Criteria

Version 2.1

17 May 2019 The Standard is updated with non-substantive changes

from version 2.0 to version 2.1.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction

1.3 Theory of change

A theory of change is a logical schema that denes

an organisation’s vision and explains the steps it

believes will bring about that vision. BCI’s theory

of change aims to answer the questions: what

change do we seek to make, and what needs to

happen to bring about that change? The theory of

change explains how BCI and its members achieve

the BCI mission through the implementation of

various activities and strategies. It also provides

a framework to monitor, evaluate and report on

the effects of applying the Better Cotton P&C.

BCI’s theory of change calls for transformation of

the cotton production sector, catalysing movement

toward sustainability in two spheres: farm and

market. At the production level, the implementation

of the Better Cotton P&C, critically supported by BCI

Implementing Partners, contributes to increased

farmer knowledge and skills, improved farming

practices, and creation of a global community that

shares best practice and encourages continuous

improvement. This, in turn, contributes to outcomes

of optimised input use; optimised farm productivity;

enhanced water quality, soil health and biodiversity;

and improved labour conditions, health, and safety

for farmers, workers and their families. We expect

that as we see these benets reach thousands and

millions of cotton producers around the world, BCI

and our partners and members will see measurable

progress toward our envisioned impacts of

sustainable livelihoods, an enhanced environment,

and good quality of life for cotton producing

communities.

More information about BCI’s theory of change

can be found on the Better Cotton Initiative website.

1.4 Scope

The P&C cover the most signicant global issues

associated with cotton cultivation and explain the

intended outcomes achieved through their adoption.

The P&C can be applied at a global level.

They generally apply to farming areas used for

the purpose of producing Better Cotton within

the geographic boundaries under the farmer’s

responsibility. This means all areas within or

adjacent to BCI Farmers’ cotton elds. However,

areas that are not used for cotton production are

not subject to the P&C, unless they are covered

by management plan requirements.

BCI distinguishes between three categories of

farmers (smallholders, medium farms and large

farms) in recognition of the differences in production

methods and workforces they use. A set of 42

criteria applies to the three categories.

Underpinning the P&C is the fundamental premise

that producing Better Cotton respects national and

other applicable law. Cotton producers should

always abide by national legislation, unless that

legislation sets standards that are below the

referenced internationally recognised standards

and conventions, in which case, the international

standards prevail. However, where national

legislation sets higher requirements on a specic

issue than these standards, national legislation

applies.

Responsibility for ensuring compliance with the

Better Cotton P&C lies with entity(ies) that is/are

the licence holder. For the purpose of BCSS

implementation, this person/these people or entities

are referred to as ‘The Producer’. The Producer

is responsible for decisions and production/

management activities related to the Production

Unit. The Producer is also responsible for

demonstrating that other people or entities that

are permitted or contracted by The Producer to

operate in, or for the benet of the Production Unit,

comply with the requirements of the Better Cotton

P&C. The Producer is required to design and

implement corrective action plans to address

any practices that do not comply with the P&C.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction

For additional information about the roles and

responsibilities of different stakeholders in

assurance, key assurance mechanisms, and

the licensing process, please consult the Better

Cotton Assurance Programme.

1.5 Translation accuracy disclaimer

Translation accuracy of the BCI standards and

other documents into languages other than English

is not guaranteed nor implied. For any question

related to the accuracy of the information contained

in the translation, please refer to the English ofcial

version. Any discrepancies or differences created

in the translation are not binding and have no

inuence on auditing or certication.

1.6 References

The following references are indispensable

for the application of the P&C.

For references without a version number,

the latest edition of the referenced document

(including any amendments) applies.

• The ISEAL Code of Good Practice for Setting

Social and Environmental Standards (v. 6.0)

• The Better Cotton Assurance Programme,

January 2018

• The Better Cotton Standard Setting and Revision

Procedure, January 2014

• The Procedure for Developing Local Interpretation

of BCI Global Standards

1.7 Document layout

Structure

This document is composed of nine sections:

Preamble

Principle 1: BCI Farmers minimise

the harmful impact of crop protection practices

Principle 2: BCI Farmers promote water

stewardship

Principle 3: BCI Farmers care for soil health

Principle 4: BCI Farmers enhance biodiversity

and use land responsibly

Principle 5: BCI Farmers care for and preserve

bre quality

Principle 6: BCI Farmers promote decent work

Principle 7: BCI Farmers operate an effective

management system

Annexes.

The presentation of each principle is as follows:

●

‘Principles’ are the overarching sustainability

requirement.

●

‘Criteria’ are conditions that need to be met in

order to adhere to a Principle.

●

‘Intent’ refers to explanatory notes providing

rationale behind the requirement.

●

‘Indicators’ are measurable states that allow the

assessment of whether or not associated criteria

are met.

●

‘Guidance for implementation’ is support on

how best to comply with the requirement.

●

‘Farmer category’: On the right side of each

indicator, three boxes representing the three

farmer categories highlights the category to

which the requirement applies (see next page).

A tick is placed in the corresponding box.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction

●

‘Core/improvement indicators’: Ticks in the

farmer category boxes are colour- coded:

red for core indicators and blue for improvement

indicators.

●

‘Theme’: Criteria are grouped together according

to certain themes. Each Principle is divided into

one or several themes. Themes are listed in the

top right corner of criteria pages.

Drafting rules

We have applied the following drafting rules

to the P&C during the revision process.

BCI standards follow a dened structure:

Principles, Criteria and Indicators

(see section above).

The compulsory nature of each requirement is

expressed according to a simplied form of the

ISO ‘verbal forms for the expression of

provisions’:

‘must’: indicates instructions strictly to be

followed.

‘should’: indicates that among several

possibilities, one is recommended as particularly

suitable, without mentioning or excluding others.

‘may’: indicates a course of action permissible

within the limits of the standard.

‘can’: is used for statements of possibility and

capability, whether material, physical or causal.

The ‘Producer’ is the term chosen to dene the Unit

of licensing, and can be either a Producer Unit (PU)

(for small or medium-sized farms) or Individual BCI

Farmer (in the case of large farms).

Criteria are written in the active form, using

‘The Producer’ as subject.

– Example: The Producer must adopt a Water

Management Plan towards water stewardship.

Core indicators are written in the afrmative and

active or passive form.

– Example: Water resources are identied,

mapped and understood.

Improvement indicators are written either in

afrmative and active or passive form:

– Example: Wage records show that workers are

paid regularly in the form requested by them.

Or in active or passive form requiring an answer

with a quantitative response:

– Example: Proportion of farms with workers

employed with a written contract.

Core indicators are designed in line with ISO

drafting rules. They are:

Clear: Plain language is applied so that

requirements should be understandable

and relevant. Sentences should be as short

and concise as possible.

Specic: Each indicator should refer to a

single aspect of performance to be evaluated.

An indicator which includes more than one

aspect to be evaluated shall be sub-divided

into several indicators reecting those aspects.

Measurable: Indicators shall specify outcomes or

levels of performance that are measurable during

an evaluation at a reasonable cost. The level of

performance required to comply with the

indicators should be clear to the reader.

Achievable: Indicators shall not be dened

in terms of design or descriptive characteristics,

and shall not favour a particular technology

or patented item.

Relevant: Indicators shall only include elements

that contribute to the achievement of the objective

of the applicable BCI Criterion.

Smallholder

Improvement

indicators

Core

indicators

Medium Farms

Large Farms

✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction

Tangible: Indicators shall be written using a

clear and consistent vocabulary, free from

subjective elements. The use of such phrases as

‘ordinarily’, ‘substantial’, ‘proactive’, ‘wherever

possible’ or ‘thorough’ should be avoided.

Each indicator applies to the Producer, as stated

in the P&C. As a result, the indicator will not state

‘The Producer shall/should […]’ in order to avoid

duplication between criteria and indicators.

Each indicator expresses what should be in

place at the time of assessment or audit and

not at a future date.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Preamble

II. Preamble

2.1 Objectives

This document aims to assist BCI Implementing

Partners in interpreting the P&C and explaining to

cotton farmers both the importance of addressing

the issues covered by the P&C, and the practical

implications of producing Better Cotton. It also

seeks to help other audiences interested in Better

Cotton, such as retailers, ginners, spinners, traders,

NGOs, trade unions, producer organisations and

large independent cotton farmers, in better

understanding the P&C.

It is the responsibility of BCI Farmers and their

partners to identify appropriate better management

practices and implement techniques to address

these issues and meet the P&C.

To be licensed to produce Better Cotton, Producers

must rst meet a set of core indicators. These

ensure that Better Cotton meets clearly dened

standards for pesticide use, water management,

decent work, record keeping, training and other

factors. At the same time, Producers are

encouraged to develop further by striving to meet

improvement indicators, reecting the fundamental

concept of continuous improvement. Improvement

indicators are measured through a concise

questionnaire, which helps to identify positive

impacts on an ongoing basis. Producers receive a

score based on their answers and their results are

presented transparently in performance bands for

each category of farmers. High-scoring Producers

are rewarded through extended Better Cotton

licence periods. The better the score, the longer the

licence awarded.

The improvement indicators presented in this

document form the foundation of expected

improvements over time per principle. They can be

subject to modication when adapted to farmers’

working documents and templates.

Additionally, in this revised version, we have

developed a new management planning approach

for three environmental principles: water, soil and

biodiversity. The rationale behind this proposal is to

provide a more holistic, step-by-step action

framework to support producers in reaching

sustainability objectives embedded in the three

principles. This approach is similar to our existing

efforts to support farmers in protecting crops by

adopting an Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

planning approach.

BCI aims to prescribe each component of the plans

that need to be addressed (in the same way that we

prescribe the ve components of a good IPM plan),

and requires producers to dene the content of the

plans, associated timelines and monitoring

measures. Furthermore, BCI will guide producers on

how best to relate or integrate each individual

management plan into a consolidated Continuous

Improvement Plan (CIP) (covered under new

Principle 7 – Farm Management).

2.2 Effective date

Standard effective date

The new BCI Standard (version 2.0) has been

launched on 1 March 2018. It has however only

been applicable in its entirety from 1 March 2019,

which marked the end of the transition period.

Transition period

Some core indicators required a transition phase.

The SSRC considered that these indicators might

present competency and feasibility implementation

challenges, and partners would need time to

develop adequate capacity. The transition phase

allowed for the necessary time to develop guidance

material and deliver training. These transition

indicators have been implemented on 1 March 2019.

1 March 2019 marked the end of the transition

period. All producers started being assessed

against all core and improvement indicators.

Over the course of the transition period, 2 pilot-

projects were conducted to facilitate implementation

of two main innovations brought to the revised

standard, respectively water stewardship and land

use change approaches.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Preamble

Future reviews

In compliance with the ISEAL Code of Good

Practice for Setting Social and Environmental

Standards (Public Version 6-0, December 2014)

and the guidance of ISO/IEC Guide 59 Code of

Good Practice for Standardization (February 1994),

the Better Cotton P&C will be revised by 2023.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction to the Principle:

Cotton is attractive to a range of pests, and subject

to diseases and weed infestations. A range of

techniques are available to control and manage

them. This includes the use of bio-control agents,

pheromones and hormones; plant breeding and

appropriate cultivar selection; various cultural

and mechanical techniques; the application of

conventional pesticides (both natural and synthetic)

and more recently, the use of genetically modied

plants.

However, the use of synthetic pesticides is a dominant

form of crop protection. Given this dominance, and

that inappropriate or improper use of pesticides can

adversely affect human health, contaminate water

sources, food crops and the environment more broadly,

the focus of the Criteria under this Principle is two-fold:

1. The adoption of IPM and an emphasis on the use

of pest control techniques other than pesticide

application, in order to reduce reliance on

pesticides. In addition to the risks associated with

pesticide use, over-reliance has led to pesticide

resistance, disruption to populations of natural pest

enemies and secondary pest outbreaks, all of which

make crop protection more challenging and costly;

2. The use of practices that minimise the potential

harmful effects of pesticides.

As a mainstream initiative, BCI works with all farmers,

including those who choose to produce transgenic

(also referred to as ‘GM’ or ‘biotech’) cotton varieties,

such as Bt cotton. BCI has adopted a position of

being ‘technology neutral’ with respect to transgenic

cotton. This means that BCI will neither encourage

farmers to produce it, nor seek to restrict their access

to it, provided it is legally available to them. Instead,

the focus is on enabling farmers to make informed

choices about the availability of technologies, and

how to use them appropriately. BCI encourages

informed decision-making at the farm level, to change

practices that ensure improved outcomes –

environmentally, socially and economically.

Furthermore, high atmospheric carbon content can

inuence plant growth and the nutritional needs of

most species. Increased temperature causes

migration of species northwards and into higher

latitudes, while in the tropics, higher temperatures

can adversely affect specic pest species.

Climate change will inuence the ecology of weeds,

pests and disease, with possible implications for the

effectiveness of current IPM strategies in term of crop

protection and pesticide use. BCI supports farmers

in developing a better knowledge and understanding

of pest behaviour under different projected scenarios

and adopting new IPM technologies to respond to

climate risks.

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Crop Protection

BCI Farmers Minimise the Harmful Impact

of Crop Protection Practices

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

The objectives and benets of implementing

IPM include:

The use of practices that minimize the potential

harmful effects of pesticides to humans and

environment

Using a wider range of control techniques and

reducing reliance on a single method of pest

control leads to a more resilient approach to crop

protection and better control of input costs.

The Producer must adopt an Integrated Pest

Management Programme that includes all of the

following principles:

i. growing a healthy crop;

ii. preventing the build-up of pest populations

and the spread of disease;

iii. preserving and enhancing populations

of benecial organisms;

iv. regular eld observations of crop health

and key pest and benecial insects;

v. managing resistance.

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.1.1

A locally adapted and time-bound plan, based on agro-ecosystem analysis,

and which identies appropriate specic practices to implement the ve

components of Integrated Pest Management, is established.

1.1.2

An Integrated Pest Management Programme is implemented that includes

all the following components:

i. growing a healthy crop;

ii. preventing the build-up of pest populations and the spread of disease;

iii. preserving and enhancing populations of benecial organisms;

iv. regular eld observations of crop health and key pest and benecial insects;

v. managing resistance.

1.1.3

A timeline for implementing the ve components of the Integrated Pest

Management plan is established

1.1.4

There is no calendar or random spraying.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.1.5

Proportion of farmers adopting the ve components of Integrated Pest

Management, in accordance with the list of practices dened in the locally

adapted and time-bound plan.

1.1.6

Timeline against which 100% adoption on the ve components

of Integrated Pest Management should be achieved.

✔

CRITERION 1.1

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Integrated

Pest Management

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Integrated

Pest Management

Crop Protection

Guidance for implementation

Rather than a specic set of rules, IPM is better

considered as the fundamental guiding approach for

cotton farmers in protecting their cotton crop from the

many and varied pests attracted to it.

The components underpinning an IPM Programme

should include:

Taking into account the interests of, and impacts

on, Producers, society and the environment in

selecting crop protection techniques, such as

the potential health and environmental impacts

of pesticide use, the need to manage genetically-

modied varieties to prevent resistant insect

and/or weed populations, and the risk of cross-

fertilisation of any neighbouring cotton that is

not genetically modied.

Using a range of pest control strategies in an

integrated manner, without relying on any single

strategy (particularly pesticide application), and use

both preventative and curative measures.

The presence of pests should not automatically

lead to control measures being applied.

When the control of pests becomes necessary,

non-chemical pest control methods should be

considered rst; the use of pesticides (especially

those with broad-spectrum activity) should be seen

as a last resort.

BCI Farmers develop, implement and improve

IPM programmes over time, reecting their progress

on knowledge acquisition and performance. This

reects the concept of continuous improvement. BCI

expects all BCI Farmers to understand the objectives

of IPM, and to be knowledgeable about its ve

components. Large and Medium Farms

must be able to demonstrate the analysis of issues or

the implementation of practices related to all

ve components - all combined under a

comprehensive and operational IPM programme. PUs

of smallholders are expected to draft a comprehensive

plan addressing all ve components, and

progressively establish appropriate practices under a

time-bound plan.

Some practices, however, are incompatible with

the IPM approach from the outset, such as the use

of pesticides that are not legally registered for use

on cotton, or the spraying of pesticides on a random

basis or calendar schedule. Every BCI Farmer

must have the capacity, on an individual basis or

through expert support, to make pest management

decisions based on a minimum level of eld

observations and analysis, and on such concepts

as economic thresholds for pest or predator to pest

ratios. Pesticide application that does not follow this

concept must be considered a non-compliance.

In exceptional circumstances, farmers may spray

pesticides on a date (relative to the crop cycle) that

has been previously scheduled. For example, an early

season, scheduled, ‘prophylactic’ insecticide spray

can be considered acceptable, as long as this is

triggered by an ofcial recommendation from a

credible research body. This may occur if there

is a risk of early pest or disease infestation, which can

be difcult to address in a timely manner after scouting

and threshold assessment, and in the absence of any

other effective alternative prevention methods.

Furthermore, there are theoretical examples where,

following up on an initial treatment triggered by

observation, a second spray could be implemented

at a set interval (therefore ‘scheduled’), following a

specic recommendation. These exceptional cases

are only acceptable if Producers are able to refer to

an ofcial recommendation that builds on credible,

recent, and locally relevant research, and if all other

decisions to spray chemical pesticides are based

on eld observations and in accordance with the

Producer’s s’ IPM plan or programme. Producers

should also be able to demonstrate that alternative

control methods are being investigated – either by

the research body providing the recommendation,

or by themselves.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Integrated

Pest Management

Crop Protection

The specic techniques that can be implemented

in any one farmer’s eld will depend on a range

of agro-climatic, seasonal, socio-economic and

political factors, and BCI will not endeavour to

prescribe what these should be. Local experts are

best placed to identify and promote specic and

appropriate pest management techniques for a given

location.

Nevertheless, there is a range of broad strategies

available, examples of which are provided here

to highlight the type of eld-level practices that

could be included within an IPM Programme:

Cultivating a healthy crop that can withstand

some degree of damage: tactics include good

soil and bed preparation; choice of appropriate

variety and planting date; appropriate water and

nutrition management; and harvest management

and timing;

Preventing pest population build-up: tactics

include using crop rotation to break pest and

disease cycles; keeping the farm weed-free;

avoiding planting crops that host pests;

Preserving and enhancing populations of

benecial organisms: tactics include planting

refuge and / or intercrops – crops that provide

a habitat for benecial animal species; using

attractants; releasing benecial insects; choosing

the least disruptive (i.e. a narrow-spectrum)

insecticide if this type of control

is deemed necessary; maintaining on-farm habitat

biodiversity;

Regular monitoring of the crop for pests,

benecial insects and crop damage, in

conjunction with the use of appropriate pest

thresholds, accepting a certain degree of

crop damage;

Managing resistance: tactics include rotating

insecticide groups; adopting pest and damage

thresholds; limiting the total number of

applications of any one class of insecticide; using

trap crops; using mechanical means

to control a pest (e.g. destruction of overwintering

pupae through cultivation); selecting insecticides

that are least disruptive to benecial insects;

Managing the crop to early maturity to reduce the

length of time the crop is exposed to pests, and

particularly late-season pests;

Using non-chemical means of control: tactics

include encouraging bird and bat species that

act as predators to cotton pest populations; use

of pheromones;

Using border crops (e.g. maize, sorghum) around

cotton elds to provide a physical barrier to pests

and which mask the odours arising from cotton

plants.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

The use of pesticides can pose risks to humans,

animals and the environment. Different types of

pesticides carry diverse types and degrees of risk

that need to be taken into account. It is therefore

critical to understand the specic risks associated

with each particular type of pesticide, in order to

take appropriate precautions. The labels provided

with legally registered pesticides contain important

information regarding the properties of the product

in question, directions for use and the precautions

and measures to be adopted when using it, all of

which must be followed. The label should contain

information on: the type of application equipment

and protective equipment that should be used;

the appropriate rate and volume of water to be used;

any restrictions on use; rst aid information; the

crop(s) the product is registered for, product

compatibility and container disposal requirements.

Further information is available from the product

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS).

The Producer must only use pesticides that are:

i. Registered nationally for the crop being

treated;

ii. Correctly labelled in at least one de facto

or de jure ofcial national or applicable ofcial

regional language.

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.2.1

All pesticides used are registered nationally for use on cotton.

1.2.2

All pesticides used are correctly labelled in at least one de facto

or de jure ofcial national or applicable ofcial regional language.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

1.2.3

All natural substances used are registered under the local/national BCI

natural substance database.

✔ ✔ ✔

Registration of a particular pesticide for a crop

indicates that the relevant regulatory authority

has assessed the risks associated with using

the pesticide on the crop(s) for which it has been

registered, and that suitable, crop-specic

directions for use have been developed. In

particular, the rate (volume per unit area) at which

a pesticide is to be applied, and any withholding

period (the time that must be allowed to elapse after

the application of a pesticide before the crop can

be harvested) to be observed, will be inuenced by

the crop being treated. Use of a pesticide on a crop

for which it is not registered – especially food crops

– increases the risk of pesticides entering the food

chain, as the appropriate application rates and

withholding periods will not have been determined.

Lack of registration may be the result of a decision

that the pesticide should not be registered for the

crop in question.

Furthermore, high application rates may damage

the crop or result in unacceptably high residues,

while insufciently low rates may be ineffective and

lead to the development of pesticide resistance.

CRITERION 1.2

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Integrated

Pest Management

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

production areas. We will design a process to review

and validate substances and publish a list, enclosing

conditions of use for each substance. This new

approach will help us to support our Implementing

Partners in further tailoring training and knowledge

resources to the local context.

Guidance for implementation

For the purpose of this criterion, the term pesticide

includes insecticides, herbicides, fungicides and

acaricides, growth regulators, defoliants, conditioners

and desiccants, as well as bio-pesticides.

During 2018, BCI country teams will appoint a national

stakeholder council or group in each BCI country to

identify existing national substances used in

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Integrated

Pest Management

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

Chemicals listed under the Stockholm Convention

on Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs) and

substances listed in the annexes of the Montreal

Protocol on Substances that Deplete the Ozone

Layer (a protocol of the Vienna Convention for the

Protection of the Ozone Layer) pose unacceptable

levels of hazards to human health or the environment

and are to be eliminated from use in agriculture.

If it is clearly established that a substance falls

within the parameters of these conventions and

is listed in their respective annexes, BCI Farmers

must not use it.

The Producer must not use any pesticide listed in:

i. Annex A and B of the Stockholm Convention;

ii. Annexes of the Montreal Protocol; or

iii. Annex III of the Rotterdam Convention.

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

1.3.1

Pesticides listed in:

i. Annex A and B of the Stockholm Convention; or

ii. Annexes of the Montreal Protocol; or

iii. Annex III of the Rotterdam Convention;

are not used.

✔ ✔ ✔

CRITERION 1.3

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

Note: The BCI Council has decided to add the

ingredients outlined in the Rotterdam Convention to

BCI’s list of banned active ingredients. the effective

date, in line with Council’s recommendation, is set

at 1 March 2019. In effect, this falls in line with the

proposed transition period for the revised criteria

referred to as ‘transition criteria’.

Guidance for implementation

A list of active ingredients used by BCI farmers

and matching pesticides listed under Stockholm

and Rotterdam conventions is being provided by

BCI upon request.

PU managers should update their national list regularly

against conventions and databases of listed

chemicals, so that Producers and Implementing

Partners can refer to it regularly.

Intent

BCI considers that it is in the interest of both the

health of the farmer and the farming community,

and of the environment, for there to be a reduction

in the total toxicity of the pesticides applied to the

crop. One method to achieve this is to restrict

access to certain types of pesticides, based on

their toxicity. As the United Nations’s (UN) Food

and Agriculture Organization (FAO) notes, restricting

access to certain toxic pesticides, such as WHO

Class I, ‘may be desirable if other control measures

or good marketing practices are insufcient to

ensure that the product can be handled with

acceptable risk to the user’.

The Producer must phase out the use of any

pesticide active ingredients and formulations that

are known or presumed to be extremely or highly

hazardous (accute toxicity).

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.4.1

The Producer has a plan to phase out by 2021 pesticides listed in category 1

of the Globally Harmonized System of Classication and Labelling of

Chemicals (GHS); Ia of the World Health Organization (WHO) classication.

1.4.2

The Producer has a plan to phase out by 2024 pesticides listed in category 2

of the Globally Harmonized System of Classication and Labelling of

Chemicals (GHS); Ib of the World Health Organization (WHO) classication.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.4.3

Proportion of farmers who have phased out Globally Harmonized System

(GHS) category 1 / World Health Organization (WHO) Class Ia.

1.4.4

Proportion of farmers who have phased out Globally Harmonized System

(GHS) category 2 / World Health Organization (WHO) Class Ib.

1.4.5

The Producer has phased out Globally Harmonized System (GHS)

category 1 / World Health Organisation (WHO) Class Ia.

1.4.6

The Producer has phased out Globally Harmonized System (GHS)

category 2 / World Health Organisation (WHO) Class Ib.

✔ ✔

✔

✔ ✔ ✔

However, BCI recognises that a blanket restriction

on the use of a range of generally available

pesticides may not take into account either:

The specic and immediate local impacts of such

a restriction. For example, will a BCI Farmer have

access to alternative products?

The degree of risk associated with using the

pesticide in different regional contexts, i.e. regions

with access to different technologies will have

differing abilities to minimise the risks associated

with applying pesticides. As noted by the FAO:

‘Pesticides whose handling and application

require the use of personal protective equipment

that is uncomfortable, expensive or not readily

available should be avoided, especially in the

case of small-scale users in tropical climates.’

CRITERION 1.4

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

provided by BCI upon request. PU managers should

update their national list regularly against conventions

and databases of listed chemicals, so Producers

and Implementing Partners can refer to it regularly.

The BCI secretariat will make available research and

training modules on cross-crop alternatives to WHO

Class 1a/1b pesticides over the course of 2018.

Guidance for implementation

Phasing out deadlines for extremely and highly

hazardous active ingredients for mammal acute

toxicity (2021 and 2024 respectively) have been set for

BCI Farmers.

A list of active ingredients used by BCI farmers

and matching pesticides listed under World Health

Organization Class (WHO) Class 1a/1b is being

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

In line with BCI’s aim to reinforce our approach

to eliminating highly hazardous pesticides, we have

added criteria related to the phase-out of active

ingredients that are known or presumed to be

carcinogens, mutagens or reproductive toxicants,

with reference to relevant categories of the Globally

Harmonized System of Classication and Labelling

of Chemicals (GHS), International Agency for

Research on Cancer (IARC) and WHO, with no xed

timeline.

The Producer must phase out the use of any

pesticide active ingredients and formulations

that are known or presumed to be carcinogenic,

mutagenic or reprotoxic (CMR) substances.

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

1.5.1

The Producer has a plan to phase out Pesticides dened as carcinogenic,

mutagenic or reprotoxic (CMR) substances according to Categories Ia and Ib

of the Globally Harmonized System of Classication and Labelling of

Chemicals (GHS).

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.5.2

Proportion of farmers who have phased out pesticides dened as carcinogenic,

mutagenic or reprotoxic (CMR) substances according to Categories Ia and Ib

of the Globally Harmonized System of Classication and Labelling of Chemicals

(GHS).

1.5.3

The producer has phased out pesticides dened as carcinogenic, mutagenic

or reprotoxic (CMR) substances according to Categories Ia and Ib of the

Globally Harmonized System of Classication and Labelling of Chemicals (GHS).

✔ ✔

✔

✔ ✔ ✔

CRITERION 1.5

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

regularly against conventions and databases of listed

chemicals regularly, so that Producers and

Implementing Partners can refer to it regularly.

Guidance for implementation

A list of active ingredients used by BCI farmers

and matching pesticides meeting criteria of GHS

categories 1 and 2 is being provided by BCI upon

request. PU managers should update their national list

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

Given the hazards associated with pesticide use,

it is important that the people who use them are both

healthy and trained. Workers who are not healthy,

for example who are fatigued or sick, are more likely

to have an accident than workers who are healthy,

while workers with illnesses — especially liver or

kidney diseases — may be at a greater risk. Equally,

workers with open wounds have an increased risk

of pesticides entering their body through the wound.

The Producer must ensure that any person

who prepares and applies pesticides is:

i. Healthy;

ii. Skilled and trained in the application

of pesticides;

iii. 18 or older;

iv. not pregnant or nursing.

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

1.6.1

The Producer must ensure that any person who prepares and applies pesticides is:

i. Healthy;

ii. Skilled and trained in the application of pesticides;

iii. 18 or older;

iv. not pregnant or nursing.

✔ ✔ ✔

CRITERION 1.6

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

Pregnant and nursing women should not be

involved in pesticide application, given the greater

risks associated in exposing their developing foetus

or nursing child to pesticides. Unborn and young

children may be especially sensitive to pesticides for

a number of reasons. The development of the foetus’

nervous system may be adversely affected; young

children do not have the same ability to detoxify

pesticides, and their comparatively smaller body

weight makes them more susceptible than adults

to the adverse effects of pesticides. As a woman may

not be aware that she is pregnant in the early stages

of her pregnancy, it is advisable that women of

child-bearing age do not apply pesticides at all.

Guidance for implementation

Implementing Partners must provide BCI Farmers and

workers with appropriate information and training to

perform their work safely and without health risks. This

facilitates understanding among BCI Farmers

regarding the extent of the hazard, associated risks,

why risk controls are used and how to manage risks.

Training enables BCI Farmers to work more safely in

the context of hazards. The specic content of the

training is situation-specic and should be tailored with

respect to the local context.

People under the age of 18 should not apply

pesticides, as pesticide application is work ’ which

by its nature … is likely to harm their health’ (ILO

Convention 182) and therefore classied as

hazardous child labour. Reasons for restricting

the application of pesticides to people aged 18

and older include the physical nature of pesticide

application, and the increased risk of fatigue, injury

and poisoning for young workers, and also the

likelihood that personal protective equipment,

being designed for adults, may not t properly and

therefore may not work properly — if it is used at all.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

The use of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

should be seen as the last resort to protecting

applicators from pesticide exposure. The best

method is to remove the source of risk, i.e. not

to use the pesticide in the rst place. Adopting an

IPM programme can assist in limiting the use of

pesticides. If a pesticide application is required,

BCI Farmers should select one that poses the least

risk to the user, for example, by opting for a less

hazardous active ingredient, or the least hazardous

formulation for a given active ingredient. Preventing

applicators being exposed to pesticides is essential

to managing the risks of acute or chronic health

injuries. The label should contain information on

the appropriate protective and safety equipment to

be used, based on the risks posed by the pesticide.

Where PPE is used to control risks associated with

pesticides, it is essential that certain conditions be

met in order for it to be effective. It should correctly

t each wearer, and users must understand how and

why to use it. All PPE should be readily available on

site, functional and correctly maintained and

cleaned.

Intent

Pesticides can enter a person’s body through

a person’s mouth (oral), their skin (dermal), or

breathing (inhalation). The risk of entry will be

affected by the formulation of the pesticide

(e.g. liquid or dust), and how it is handled.

Oral ingestion can result from eating or smoking

while working with pesticides, from mistakenly

consuming a pesticide stored in a food or drink

container, from not washing hands thoroughly

after working with pesticides or through use of

a pesticide container for household purposes.

Dermal absorption is a major route of poisoning,

and can occur during handling, mixing and

loading of pesticides, as well as during application,

for example as a result of a leaking backpack

applicator. Inhalation of pesticide dust and spray

droplets can also occur during mixing and

application.

Producers must ensure that any person who

prepares and applies pesticides always uses

appropriate protective and safety equipment

in a correct manner.

CRITERION 1.7

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.7.1

Pesticides are prepared and applied by persons who correctly use appropriate

protective and safety equipment.

1.7.2

Minimum Personal Protective Equipment is worn while preparing and applying

pesticides, which includes protection of the following body parts from dermal

absorption, ingestion and inhalation:

– Face and airways: eyes, ear canal, nose, scalp

– Limbs: arms, forearms, palms, legs, feet

– Abdomen and genital area.

1.7.3

Pesticide labels are checked regularly (at least every spray season) to ensure

that the appropriate Personal Protective Equipment is available for the pesticides

being used.

1.7.4

Training on safe work procedures and the maintenance, use and proper storage

of Personal Protective Equipment has been delivered to all staff who work with

pesticides.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.7.5

Proportion of farms where pesticides are prepared and applied by persons

who correctly use appropriate protective and safety equipment.

1.7.6

Frequency at which Personal Protective Equipment is checked for wear

and tear, and replaced if required.

1.7.7

Frequency at which refresher training on safe work procedures and the

maintenance, use and proper storage of Personal Protective Equipment

is provided.

✔✔

✔

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

– Face and airways: eyes, ear canal, nose, scalp;

– Limbs: arms, feet, palms, forearms;

– Abdomen and genital area.

Guidance for implementation

BCI recognises that there are situations where

appropriate equipment is not available or affordable

for BCI Farmers. However, at a minimum, when

handling or applying any pesticides, BCI Farmers

must wear garments and equipment that protect the

following body parts from dermal absorption, ingestion

and inhalation:

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

Pesticide containers are a source of risk to the

environment and human health, and appropriate

storage helps to minimise this risk. Determining

what is appropriate depends on both the quantity

and type of pesticide being stored. The local context

also has a strong inuence on the storage options

available to BCI Farmers. Pesticides should ideally

only be purchased in the amounts required for

immediate use, and used as soon as they are

purchased (so as to eliminate the need for storage).

However, we recognise that this may not always

be possible or practical.

Producers must store, handle and clean pesticide

application equipment and containers, in order to

avoid environmental harm and human exposure.

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

1.8.1

Dedicated areas must be available on the farm for storing, mixing and

handling pesticides, and for cleaning pesticide containers and application

equipment. The areas must fully comply with relevant legislation for the

storage, handing and disposal of pesticides. Within these areas, all rinsate

and runoff must be completely captured so that it poses no contamination risk.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.8.2

Proportion of farms with separate and safe storage and cleaning sites available.

1.8.3

Frequency at which application equipment is inspected and cleaned.

✔ ✔

✔

CRITERION 1.8

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Pesticide

Restriction

Crop Protection

The mixing and cleaning of pesticide containers

and application equipment should be undertaken only

while wearing appropriate PPE, and away from both

densely inhabited and sensitive environmental areas,

particularly bodies of water and water courses,

so that any runoff does not enter the water system.

Applicators should not eat, smoke or drink while

applying pesticides, or when handling and cleaning

containers and application equipment, and should

have access to appropriate facilities for washing

hands and changing clothes after handling or spraying

pesticides.

Guidance for implementation

If pesticides need to be stored, they should be stored

separately from all other substances. The storage

should protect the containers from the weather, in

order to minimise the risks of the containers corroding

or the pesticide degrading. Storage must also be in a

secure and well-ventilated area, so that it is protected

from unauthorised access, and so that fumes do not

pose a risk.

Pesticides should never be stored in drink or food

containers. If it is necessary to store a pesticide in

a container other than its original container, then the

container must be clearly and appropriately marked.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

The risk of pesticide drift (the off-target movement of

pesticides) is related to both the prevailing weather

conditions, and the suitability of the equipment used

to apply the pesticide. Temperature affects the

rate of evaporation, and high rates of evaporation

may result in a reduced droplet size for water-based

formulations, leading to an increased risk of drift

(small droplets are more likely to drift off target

than large droplets).

Leaks in application equipment pose a threat

to the applicator and the environment, and worn

components may result in incorrect application

rates and less effective treatment.

Producers must apply pesticides in appropriate

weather conditions, according to the directions

on the label, and/or manufacturers’ directions,

with appropriate and well-maintained equipment.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.9.1

A formal plan for conducting pesticide application that details, at a minimum,

that the following is in place on the farm:

i. Instructions to comply with the requirements detailed on the label.

ii. The relevant weather conditions under which applications will and will

not be undertaken for each eld (including wind direction and taking

into account the pesticide being applied), spray parameters (e.g. speed,

pressure, nozzle size, spray volume, boom height etc.), and all relevant

sensitive areas, which are clearly identied on a farm map.

1.9.2

Proportion of farms applying pesticides in appropriate weather conditions,

according to the directions on the label with appropriate and well-maintained

equipment.

1.9.3

Weather monitoring equipment is used to monitor temperature, wind speed and

direction, and humidity prior to and during application, with readings recorded.

1.9.4

Procedures for ensuring that workers are aware of and observe re-entry

periods for any treated areas are in place.

✔ ✔

✔

CRITERION 1.9

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Waste

Management

Crop Protection

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Waste

Management

Crop Protection

Pesticides can be delivered in various forms

(e.g. emulsions, wettable powders, granules),

and applied with a range of equipment. Application

equipment is designed and manufactured to be

operated under certain parameters, must be

appropriate to the form of the pesticide being

applied. The equipment should also be in good

condition, with no leaks or worn components.

Application equipment should be cleaned after each

use, in order to reduce the risk of contamination,

and to keep it in good working order.

Guidance for implementation

Weather conditions to take into account are wind

speed and direction, temperature and relative

humidity, and atmospheric stability.

Application should not take place when rainfall

is imminent. If it rains soon after application, there

is a real risk of off-site contamination (through the

rain washing the recently-applied pesticides off the

plant), and the application will be less efcient.

As noted under Criterion 1.2, pesticide labels

contain important information regarding the

properties of the product being used, directions

for use and the precautions and measures that

should be adopted when using it, all of which must

be followed. Operators should always consult the

label for specic advice on appropriate weather

conditions and application equipment.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

The focus of this criterion is to prevent pesticide

containers ever being used, either accidentally

or intentionally, for any other purpose. Even if it is

possible to clean containers to be free from

residues, it is impossible to tell whether a container

is clean or contaminated. Therefore, this criterion

seeks to ensure that no pesticide containers are

used for any household or other purposes, so as to

reduce the risk of accidental poisoning through use

of a contaminated container.

Used pesticide containers are also a potential

source of environmental contamination, and proper

disposal needs to reduce the risk of environmental

contamination.

Producers should dispose of used pesticide

containers safely, or through a collection and

recycling programme.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

1.10.1.

Proportion of farms that dispose of pesticide containers safely.

1.10.2.

Proportion of pesticides containers that are triple-rinsed, with the rinsate

added to the spray tank, or disposed of safely.

1.10.3.

Proportion of pesticide containers that are recycled.

✔ ✔

✔

CRITERION 1.10

Principle 1: Crop Protection

Waste

Management

Crop Protection

contain advice on options for safe disposal. BCI

recognises that BCI Farmers may not have access to

a container recycling or collection programme, and

that external support will be important in safe disposal.

Guidance for implementation

The best disposal method will depend on the nature of

the packaging. Where possible, Producers should take

disposal options into account when making the

decision to purchase a pesticide. The label should

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction to the Principle:

Cotton production impacts freshwater resources

in terms of water quantity through irrigation (use of

surface and groundwater) and the use of rainwater

stored in land. It also affects water quality through

the application of agrochemicals (use of pesticides

and fertilisers) and farm runoff.

Water is a major limiting factor in cotton production.

While cotton is a relatively drought tolerant crop,

farmers who use water efciently (on both rainfed

and irrigated systems farms) can achieve greater

yields and consume and pollute less water if

appropriate management practices are applied. This

contributes not only to more efcient and sustainable

water use, but it also helps Producers build resilience

to climate change. In fact, climate change is expected

to intensify the existing pressures on water supply,

particularly in regions where water scarcity is already

a concern. For this reason, suitable adaptation

measures need to be adopted by farmers.

Understanding water stewardship

Freshwater is a shared and limited resource within

a certain river basin, catchment or aquifer, making

water scarcity and pollution major global issues.

It is estimated that half a billion people currently

face severe water scarcity all year round

. Meanwhile,

nearly half of the global population lives in regions

where fresh water bodies are so polluted by excess

nitrogen that their capacity to absorb the element

is exceeded

To use freshwater resources sustainably, it is

important to consider environmental, social and

economic sustainability. Environmental sustainability

is met by using fresh water within sustainable limits

– ensuring that ecosystem and subsistence uses

of water are met at the river basin or aquifer scale,

for example. Social sustainability is met through

allocating water equitably between uses and users,

both locally and globally. Economic sustainability

is met through maximising water productivity, i.e.

by reducing the quantity of water consumed, or the

pollution created, per unit of production. All three

sustainability components include both water quantity

and water quality aspects.

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

The AWS International Water Stewardship Standard

Global Gray Water Footprint and Water Pollution Levels Related to Anthropogenic Nitrogen Loads to Fresh Water,

Mekonnen MM, Hoekstra AY; Environ. Sci. Technol. 49: 12860-12868, 2015

Water

BCI Farmers Promote Water Stewardship

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Water stewardship means using water in a way that

is socially equitable, environmentally sustainable and

economically benecial. It is achieved through an

inclusive stakeholder process encompassing site

and catchment-based actions. Good water stewards

understand their own water use, the catchment

context and the shared risk in terms of water

governance, water balance, water quality and

important water-related areas. They engage in

meaningful individual and collective actions that

benet both people and nature

Promoting water stewardship

in cotton cultivation

Producers can benet from understanding existing

and future water risks when developing climate

adaptation strategies for agricultural water

management. In particular, a good understanding

of these risks may assist in identifying priorities for

the adaptation of water resources for irrigation.

The greatest scope for action is in improving adaptive

capacity and responding to changes in water

demands. However, implementation requires

revamping current water policy, providing adequate

training to farmers and the availability of viable

nancial instruments. The Principle 2 Criterion aims

to assist stakeholders as they address the adaptation

challenge and develop measures to reduce the

vulnerability of the sector to climate change

(see annex 5 – section B).

To use water more sustainably, Producers must rstly

practise good water management at the farm level.

They must also take collective action among

themselves as well as with other water users, such as

local communities and authorities within a given river

catchment or aquifer. In order to do this, it is crucial

that Producers understand the water context of their

production areas, and plan and implement an

effective water resources management strategy.

The Producer’s water stewardship plan must be

designed as a component of the general CIP,

as described under Criterion 7.1.

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

The International Water Stewardship Standard

Water

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Applying efcient irrigation practices

to optimise water productivity

On irrigated farms, it is vital to consider efcient

water management from the initial irrigation system

design phase through to practices to ensure

optimal performance. Consistent management

and maintenance are also essential. Otherwise,

Producers may experience signicant losses in

system efciency due to poor management,

inappropriate system design, installation or

maintenance. It is also important to consider the

irrigation schedule, which dictates the volume and

timing of the water applied. Water changes with

the seasons, as should the irrigation schedule.

Many landscapes are watered at the same level all

year, adding unnecessary water for months at a

time. Overwatering can cause more damage to plant

materials than underwatering, and can damage

the farm structure and its surroundings. Efcient

irrigation practices can enhance water efciency,

delivering economic benets while reducing

environmental burdens.

Managing water quality

Cotton production impacts freshwater quality

(both surface and groundwater) through its use of

pesticides and fertilisers as well as irrigation and soil

management practices. The quality of water used

for cotton irrigation (e.g. salinity level) inuences

plant growth, yield and soil. It is, therefore, important

for Producers to understand the inuence of water

quality on cotton cultivation and minimise the

impacts of their production on water quality. Water

stewardship planning must, therefore, be linked to

and integrated with pesticide application, fertilisation

and soil management. The reduction of cotton

production impacts on local freshwater resources

not only contributes to better water quality for

irrigation use, but also improves the sustainability

of the freshwater resources at the catchment level.

Participating in collective action to promote

sustainable water use at a local level

For cotton production to become more sustainable, it

is not sufcient to manage water at the cotton eld or

farm level only. The cumulative impacts of multiple

Intent

The objectives and benets of adopting a Water

Stewardship Plan to achieve good water

stewardship include:

Mapping and understanding water resources

Understanding water availability and quality will

help Producers to better manage water resources.

In particular, mapping local water resources enables

Producers to understand their local water

environment. It highlights where the water used

for their cotton production originates, where it ows

beyond the farm’s borders, and identies the main

water issues (water quantity and quality aspects)

in the catchment or aquifer.

Managing soil moisture

Lowering or eliminating non-productive evaporation

losses improves crop performance, reduces the

amount of water needed for irrigation and optimises

the use of rainwater. Notably, reducing the

evaporation of rainfall stored in the soil increases

availability of soil moisture to support plant growth.

It can also decrease the volume of irrigation water

needed and can build greater resilience to climatic

changes within the farm system.

The Producer must adopt a Water Stewardship

Plan to help protect and conserve local water

resources and identify opportunities for climate

change adaptation. It should include all of the

following components:

i. Mapping and understanding water resources;

ii. Managing soil moisture;

iii. Applying efcient irrigation practices to

optimise water productivity (applicable to

irrigated farms only);

iv. Managing water quality;

v. Engaging in collaboration and collective action

to promote sustainable water use.

CRITERION 2.1

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Water

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

The best way to start working collectively is to

engage with neighbouring farms on shared

challenges and opportunities. Synergies can be

established to help identify problems, initiatives

and stakeholders, and maximise the impact of joint

efforts. Similarly, participating in such initiatives will

help neighbouring cotton producers or other types

of farms nd common grounds for action.

Note: All indicators and guidance are applicable

to both irrigated and rainfed farms except when

otherwise mentioned.

Producers and other water users in a given catchment

can result in groundwater and surface water bodies

being used beyond maximum sustainable limits. Any

water user in an unsustainably managed catchment

or aquifer contributes to the unsustainable use of

water within that catchment. Cotton is frequently

produced in places that are water scarce or have

high water pollution levels. It is therefore essential

that Producers participate in resolving issues of

unsustainable water use at catchment level through

collective action. This will both promote sustainable

cotton cultivation and help Producers to avert or

better manage water-related risks.

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Water

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

2.1.1

A time-bound Water Stewardship Plan is dened that addresses each

of the following components:

i. Mapping and understanding water resources;

ii. Managing soil moisture;

iii. Applying efcient irrigation practices to optimise water productivity

(applicable to irrigation farms only);

iv. Managing water quality;

v. Engaging in collaboration and collective action to promote sustainable

water use.

2.1.2

A timeline for implementing the ve components of the Water Stewardship

Plan is established.

2.1.3

Water resources are identied, mapped and understood.

2.1.4

Soil moisture management practices to reduce soil water evaporation

are implemented, as per the Water Stewardship Plan.

2.1.5

Irrigation methods and technologies are implemented to improve irrigation

efciency, as per the Water Stewardship Plan (applicable to irrigated farms only).

2.1.6

Irrigation timing is planned to maximise water productivity

(applicable to irrigated farms only).

2.1.7

Irrigation is not conducted on a rigid pre-determined calendar schedule

(applicable to irrigated farms only).

2.1.8

Risk to water quality is considered when managing and applying nutrients

and pesticides, as per the Water Stewardship Plan.

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✔ ✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Water

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

2.1.9

Opportunities for collaboration and collective action (beyond the Producer’s

unit of production) to achieve sustainable water use are identied.

2.1.10

By March 2022, collaboration and collective actions (beyond the Producer’s

unit of production) towards local sustainable use of water are implemented,

as per opportunities identied in the Water Stewardship Plan.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

2.1.11

Water resources are identied, mapped and understood.

2.1.12

Soil moisture management practices to reduce soil water evaporation

are implemented, as per the Water Stewardship Plan.

2.1.13

Irrigation methods and technologies are implemented to improve irrigation

efciency, as per the Water Stewardship Plan (applicable to irrigated farms only).

2.1.14

Irrigation timing is planned to maximise water productivity

(applicable to irrigated farms only).

2.1.15

Irrigation is not conducted on a rigid pre-determined calendar schedule

(applicable to irrigated farms only).

2.1.16

Risk to water quality is considered when managing and applying nutrients

and pesticides, as per the Water Stewardship Plan.

✔

✔ ✔ ✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Guidance for implementation

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Water

Mapping

Water

Component I:

Mapping and understanding water resources

iv. Exploring the potential of rainwater harvesting

during the rainy season, with a view to using the

harvested water during the dry season, thereby

decreasing pressure on scarce surface and

groundwater resources.

v. Mapping wetlands (swamps, ponds and lakes,

either permanent or seasonal) and riparian

vegetation areas in the farm and its borders.

For mapping, it is necessary to locate farms and water

abstraction points (applicable to irrigation farms only)

on a map or to provide coordinates. Local authorities

may provide support with this.

Refer to indicators:

– 2.1.3

– 2.1.11

The mapping and understanding of water resources

include the following components:

i. Identifying the river catchment(s) where the farm is

located.

ii. Identifying water sources for cotton irrigation and

mapping location(s) in the catchment(s) and/or

aquifers from which water is sourced (applicable to

irrigation farms only).

iii. Identifying water availability and water quality

issues:

a) at the farm location (if available);

b) in the catchment(s) where the farm is located;

c) in the catchment(s) and/or aquifers from which

where water for irrigation is sourced (applicable

to irrigation farms and to farms that source

water for irrigation from a different river basin or

catchment from the farm location).

Guidance (Component I.a and I.b):

Identifying the river catchment and water sources for cotton irrigation

To identify river catchment(s),

Producers may obtain information from:

To identify aquifers,

Producers may obtain information from:

– Local or national authorities (e.g. municipality,

water authorities, Ministry of Agriculture)

– Global or regional and local databases

available online, such as the Interactive

Database of the World’s River Basins from the

UN’s CEO Water Mandate:

http://riverbasins.wateractionhub.org/.

– Local or national authorities (e.g. municipality,

water authorities, Ministry of Agriculture)

– Global online data such as the Global

Groundwater Network: https://ggmn.un-igrac.org

– Regional and local online maps, e.g.:

– United States Geological Services:

http://groundwaterwatch.usgs.gov/

– India Water Tool: http://www.indiawatertool.in.

Link with

Principle 3

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Guidance (Component I.c):

Identifying water availability and water quality issues

Recommended parameter

(not all data may always be available)

Possible data sources

– Precipitation patterns: volume, inter

and intra-annual variations and trends

(based on historical data or associated

with climate change forecasts)

– Water availability/scarcity

– Inter and intra-annual water availability/

scarcity variations

– Drought frequency

– Groundwater level, depletion or stress

– Surface and groundwater. quality aspects

which:

– indicate overall water quality of freshwater

bodies

– indicate adequacy of water for cotton

irrigation – include aspects such as salinity

and turbidity (applicable to irrigation farms only)

– indicate pollution caused by the use of

fertilisers and pesticides in cotton production

– Data collected locally by the farmer on

precipitation, surface water ows, groundwater

levels and/or water quality

– Data available from local or national authorities

(monitoring programmes, surveys, river basin

plans, etc.)

– Data available from global or regional online

tools, e.g.:

– World Map on river basin water scarcity

(data on water scarcity available per river

basin and per country): http://worldmap.

harvard.edu/maps/riverbasinscarcity

– Aqueduct Water Risk Atlas (water risk

assessment tool providing information on

physical water risk (quantitative and

qualitative), regulatory risk and projected

changes: http://www.wri.org/applications/

maps/aqueduct-atlas/

– Transboundary Water Assessment Programme

(water assessment information on water

quantity and quality aspects of the world’s

286 transboundary river basins):

http://twap-rivers.org/indicators/

– Water Footprint Assessment Tool (geographic

sustainability assessment based on water

scarcity and nitrogen): http://waterfootprint.

org/en/resources/interactive-tools/water-

footprint-assessment-tool/)

– Example of local database for India

– India Water Tool (data on surface and

groundwater availability, quality and stress

and projected changes in India):

http://www.indiawatertool.in/.

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Water

Mapping

Water

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Establish links with issues addressed in the

Biodiversity Management Plan (see criteria 4.2).

Guidance (Component I.d): Mapping wetlands

Develop a cotton production farm map, including the

location and delineation of:

swamps, ponds, lakes and any other areas that

ood, either permanently or seasonally

specic vegetation that develops in and around

these areas

vegetation along rivers and streams that cross the

farm or run within its borders.

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Water

Mapping

Water

Link with

Principle 4

Link with

Principle 3

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Soil

Moisture

Water

Component II:

Managing soil moisture

– Promoting deep soil loosening and sowing seeds

below the surface for soil moisture use optimisation.

In loamy soils, conducting regular soil harrowing

during the rst rains has been shown to promote

moisture retention in the soil, while hilling (heaping

soil around the plants), maintains soil moisture

during late season.

– Adopting mulching and conservation tillage, which

reduce evaporation from the surface of the soil.

Mulching can be organic, with the use of manure

(composting) or green crops, or synthetic (lms are

usually more efcient but also imply higher costs)

– Adopting a soil moisture monitoring system and

using it to schedule irrigation accurately (applicable

to irrigation farms only). Simple soil moisture and

plant physiology observation (such as the ower’s

appearance, internodal distance of plants, level

of red/pink streak in the main stem) can be adopted

to decide on irrigation. Other systems can range

from simple methods such as the Gravimetric Soil

Moisture determination Method to more

sophisticated computer-controlled probes.

Refer to indicators:

– 2.1.4

– 2.1.12

Total evaporation is partitioned into productive

evaporation (water used by plants and transpired)

and non-productive evaporation (rainfall that is

intercepted in places such as a roof or road, water

stored in the surface of the soil and open water

evaporation).

Guidance: Managing soil moisture

Examples of appropriate practices and strategies

include:

– Adopting cotton varieties that are best adapted

to the region’s current and forecasted climatic

conditions and soil characteristics. In some regions,

adopting a high-density planting system, with

adequate variety, has resulted in higher water

productivity by decreasing soil area exposed

to evaporation.

– Good forecasting of rains, based on meteorological

data collected by the BCI Farmer or available from

local data providers, in order to determine when

seeds should be sown.

– Optimising the timing of sowing: appropriately timed

sowing relative to soil moisture and the start of the

rainy season can increase yields.

Decit irrigation scheduling based on plant growth stages showing water stress tolerance,

C. Kirda, FAO corporate document repository

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Irrigation

Water

Guidance:

Applying more efcient irrigation techniques

– Good forecasting of rains, based on meteorological

data collected by the BCI Farmer or available from

local data providers:

To dene irrigation scheduling to meet the plant’s

water needs

To determine when seeds should be sown (for

applicable climates). Planting earlier may require

irrigation that would not be necessary if planted

just before the rainy season.

– Avoiding excessive irrigation and only irrigating

in situations where it stands to enhance the quantity

and quality of cotton.

– Adapting or replacing irrigation technologies to use

more efcient ones (with less evaporative losses,

lower soil erosion and lower risks of leaching

pollutants, salinisation and toxic build-up in soils),

such as sub-surface drip irrigation and micro-

irrigation; adopting furrow bed irrigation and

irrigating alternate ridges instead of ood and

conventional furrow irrigation.

– Managing and maintaining water conveyance and

storage structures and means to prevent or reduce

leakages and evaporation.

– Recording water volumes used for irrigation

per source; analysing and using data on water

productivity (yield per volume of water used)

to improve water efciency.

Component III:

Applying more efcient irrigation practices

to optimise water productivity

(applicable to irrigated farms only)

Refer to indicators:

– 2.1.5

– 2.1.6

– 2.1.7

– 2.1.13

– 2.1.14

– 2.1.15

Innovative irrigation practices can enhance water

efciency, gaining an economic advantage while also

reducing environmental burdens. In some cases, the

necessary knowledge has been provided by extension

services, helping farmers to adapt and implement

viable solutions, thus gaining more benets from

irrigation technology. Often investment in technological

improvements has incurred higher water prices,

however, without gaining the full potential benets

through water efciency. Farmers generally lack

adequate means and incentives to know crops’ water

use, actual irrigation applications, crops’ yield

response to different water management practices,

and thus current on-farm water-efciency levels. There

are different methods available in term of irrigation

methods that need to be applied according to local

conditions, as well as farmers knowledge and

capacity.

In some contexts, it may be desirable to implement

decit irrigation, as it represents one of the most

efcient methods to improve irrigation efciency.

Decit irrigation means applying the minimum amount

of water necessary to achieve optimal plant growth,

which is often less than the full crop water requirement

– and results in the maximisation of water productivity.

Decit irrigation can increase the length and strength

of cotton bres

and reduces pollution caused by

nutrients. By maximising water productivity, farmers

may achieve the same yields using less water.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Water

Quality

Water

– Applying nutrients as needed, based on the

requirements of the cotton crop as well as on the

quality and nutrient state of the soil.

– Synchronising fertiliser supply (Nitrogen, Phosphate

and Potassium (NPK) and micronutrients) with crop

demand.

– Adapting irrigation technologies (from furrow to

sub-surface drip) to prevent soil erosion, runoff and

leaching of nutrients (applicable to irrigation farms

only).

– Optimising the application of nutrients in

combination with irrigation (applicable to irrigation

farms only).

– Protecting wetlands areas (lakes, ponds, rivers and

streams, either seasonal or permanent) and

associated vegetation from farming practices such

as ploughing, sowing and chemical application.

The vegetation found in wetlands acts as a lter for

many agro-chemicals; it can reduce runoff and

leaching. It can also control soil erosion and promote

biodiversity.

Component IV:

Managing water quality

Refer to indicators:

– 2.1.8

– 2.1.16

Guidance: Managing water quality

– Managing and optimising pesticide application rates

to maximise effectiveness while reducing the

amounts that may run off or leach into fresh water

bodies.

– Eliminating the use of high-toxicity pesticides and

increasing the use of natural pest control.

– Prioritising organic pesticides (e.g. neem oil) with

low toxicity and high efcacy against multiple target

pests.

– Weeding via mechanical means in order to minimise

pesticide use.

– Ensuring adequate storage of pesticides and that

areas used for mixing and lling pesticides, as well

as sprayer wash-down, do not contaminate surface

drains; using covered, contained areas for mixing

pesticides and lling sprayers.

Link with

Principle 1

Link with

Principle 4

Link with

Principle 3

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 2: Water Stewardship

Collective

Action

Water

Note: The Council decided to set the applicability date

of component V within three to ve years, to allow for

the dissemination of lessons learned through the water

pilots. The secretariat set the effective date, in line with

Council’s recommendation, at 1 March 2021.

Component V:

Participating in collective action

to promote sustainable water use at a local level

Refer to indicator:

– 2.1.9

– 2.1.10

Guidance: Collaboration and collective action

– PUs should develop an understanding of competing

uses of water by other stakeholders in the same river

catchment(s) and/or aquifers

– PUs should include the following in their Water

Stewardship Plan:

– Documentation of local water quantity and water

quality issues

– Identication of local water initiatives and

organisations and institutions involved in water

issues

– Participation with other water users, government and

civil society in catchment or aquifer water planning

and management

– Participation in public-private partnerships, or

established water initiatives aimed at reducing water

scarcity and improving water quality.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction to the Principle:

Soil is one of the fundamental assets for any farmer.

It is also the most neglected and unknown. This leads

to poor soil management, resulting in poor yields,

depletion of soils, wind erosion, surface runoff, land

degradation and climate change (both local and

global). Even within conventional farming, better

understanding and use of the soil can lead to a

signicant increase in the quality and quantity of

yields and large cost reductions in fertilisers,

pesticides and labour.

More importantly, given the impact of climate change

on Producers, primarily in the form of disturbed rainfall

patterns as well as worsening droughts, a healthy soil

could well become the farmer’s main asset for climate

resilience and climate mitigation (see also Annex 5

Climate change mitigation and adaption).

Any asset used needs to be properly understood,

so it can be successfully managed. BCI wants soil

management to result in healthy soils, since healthy

soils have many direct and indirect benets.

For farmers, these benets would be: better yields

through improved availability of nutrients and

water to their crops, reduction of pests and

weeds, reduction in labour needs, improved land

accessibility, reduction of erosion, soil compaction,

soil degradation, and many more.

Soils are formed through many physical, chemical

and biological processes. Soil science itself is a

complex, dynamic discipline. The origin of soils can

be very different. In addition, human activity has an

enormous impact on soils and their development.

Good soil management starts with developing some

knowledge of soil science. In particular, a sound

understanding of the basics in soil science is

fundamental to addressing Producers’ needs and

creating a comprehensive soil management plan.

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil Health

BCI Farmers Care for the Health of the Soil

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

For economic and environmental reasons, it makes

sense for plants to use nutrient cycling on the farm

more efciently. Goals should include a reduction

in long-distance nutrient ows, as well as promoting

‘true’ on-farm cycling, in which nutrients return in

the form of crop residue or manure to the elds from

which they came, rather than being derived from

distant industrialised production. However, BCI does

not wish to encourage farmyard manure as the

primary option for fertilisers.

There are a number of strategies to help farmers

reach the goal of better nutrient cycling and that

should be developed by BCI Farmers.

Soil organisms are responsible, to a varying degree

depending on the system, for performing vital

functions in the soil. They conduct a range of

processes important for soil health and fertility in soils

of both natural ecosystems and agricultural systems.

Soil organisms also make up the diversity of life in

the soil, spending all or a portion of their life cycles

within the soil or on its immediate surface. This soil

biodiversity is an important but poorly understood

component of terrestrial ecosystems.

The soil management plan that the Producer needs

to adopt must be designed as a component of the

general CIP, as described under Criterion 7.1.

Intent

As part of the new management planning approach

for environmental resources, BCI requires the

development and implementation of a soil

management plan. Good soil management practices

are required to maintain and enhance soil structure

and fertility, in order to achieve optimal conditions

for plant growth over the long term. For example, zero

or no-tillage, conservation tillage and minimum tillage

systems that incorporate the use of cover crops and

maintain crop residues help protect soil from erosion

and promote good soil structure. They do this by

protecting organic matter, reducing the disturbance

of soil micro-organisms, reducing soil compaction,

increasing water inltration and encouraging

earthworm activity. The use of cover crops may also

reduce nutrient leaching and help suppress weeds,

while legume rotations can provide an alternative

source of nitrogen, as well as improving soil structure.

These tactics are important, as cultivating the soil

stimulates the breakdown of soil organic matter,

incorporates crop residues under the soil surface

(where it breaks down faster), disrupts soil structure

and increases the risk of compaction.

The Producer must adopt a soil management

plan to maintain and enhance soil health that

includes all of the following components:

i. Identifying and analysing soil type;

ii. Maintaining and enhancing soil structure;

iii. Maintaining and enhancing soil fertility;

iv. Continuously improving nutrient cycling.

CRITERION 3.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil Health

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil Health

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

3.1.1

A time-bound soil management plan is dened that addresses each of the following

components:

i. Identifying and analysing soil type;

ii. Maintaining and enhancing soil structure;

iii. Maintaining and enhancing soil fertility;

iv. Continuously improving nutrient cycling.

3.1.2

A timeline for implementing the four components of the soil management plan

is established.

3.1.3

Soil testing is conducted that includes NPK and pH analysis. A minimum of 1 soil

test per Learning Group on a minimum of 20% of the Learning Groups within a

Producer Unit must be conducted each year, with different Learning Groups each

year, so that all Learning Groups are covered over a period of 5 years.

3.1.4

Soil testing is conducted that includes NPK and pH analysis. A minimum of 1 soil

test per Medium Farm on a minimum of 20% of the Medium Farms within a

Producer Unit must be conducted each year, with different Medium Farms each

year, so that all Medium Farms are covered over a period of 5 years.

3.1.5

Soil testing that includes NPK and pH analysis to determine the level of nutrients

and acidity in the soil is conducted at least once every 5 years.

3.1.6

Soil type is identied and mapped.

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil Health

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

3.1.7

Soil organic matter levels are monitored based on the need to enhance soil

structure.

3.1.8

Soil testing is conducted annually within each Learning Group.

3.1.9

Tillage methods are conducted in a way that reduces soil compaction

and damage to soil structure.

3.1.10

Nutrients are applied based on soil test results.

3.1.11

Practices to control soil erosion are implemented.

3.1.12

Crop diversity, such as crop rotation, is used to regenerate the soil.

3.1.13

A nutrition budget that considers all nutrient sources and crop exports

of nutrients is developed.

3.1.14

Soil tests and leaf tests to assess nutrient levels and fertiliser needs

during the growing season are used.

3.1.15

Fertilisers are applied using precision agriculture technologies.

3.1.16

Long-term nutrition trends are monitored.

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil Type Identication

& Analysis

Soil Health

Guidance for implementation

(from a depth of 15 cm or 6 inches, again with no

gravel or pebbles), ll with water and shake until all the

matter is suspended. Wait for one minute and mark the

height of the soil that has settled. Repeat after two

minutes and again after 24 hours. The lowest segment

is sand, the middle is silt, and the top is clay. Again,

this is not scientic, but the jar-method does give an

indication of soil type.

Measuring macro-nutrients and pH

The most common reason for soil testing is to measure

the availability of plant nutrients in the soil and the

pH level. Soil tests can also measure aspects such

as pollutants (both organic and metallic) and humus

levels, but the main reason for cotton producers is

to provide information about nutrient and pH levels.

A mobile NPK-pH measuring device is needed to

conduct the following measurement:

1. Measure the amount of macro-nutrients (NPK)

available in the soil. Measurements of micro-

nutrients are usually not necessary in low-yielding

crops, as they are available to the plant. In high-

yielding crops, they may present a problem by

creating a deciency or by blocking other nutrients.

In general, using organic matter from diverse

sources will prevent any deciency of minor

nutrients.

2. Measure pH-value; pH is a numeric scale used

to specify the acidity or basicity of an aqueous

solution – in this case, moisture from the soil.

Optimal growth is achieved between pH 6 and pH

6.5. Cotton will tolerate a pH between 5.8 and 7.5.

Any lower or higher will result in signicant yield

reduction. Put simply, pH regulates the availability

of nutrients to the crop, which is optimal between

a pH of 6 and 6.5, and degrades when it is lower

or higher than the optimum. All uids have a pH

value, and all that can become uid has a pH

value. As such, both organic and inorganic matter

also have a pH value, because the quantity used

on soils can change the soil’s pH value. It is

therefore advisable for BCI Farmers to check the

pH value of their organic matter before application

and be aware that even relatively small amounts of

inorganic fertilisers can lower the pH value of a soil

over time.

Component I:

Identifying and analysing soil type

Refer to indicators:

– 3.1.3

– 3.1.4

– 3.1.5

– 3.1.6

– 3.1.8

Identifying soil type

Determining soil texture can help BCI Farmers learn

about the potential restrictions and advantages of the

soil. Soil types are based on the size of soil granules

(sand, silt and clay) and organic matter. Any soil

granule with a size larger than 2 mm (gravel, pebbles,

rocks) is not considered in the determination. Soil

granules smaller then 2mm but larger than 0.063 mm

are sand. Granules smaller than 0.063 mm, but larger

than 0.002 mm are silt. Granules smaller than 0.002

mm are clay. Any soil with more than 40% clay is

considered a clay soil, while more than 60% clay

is a heavy clay soil. Mixed soils are called loam soils.

Those with more with sand are known as sandy loams,

and those with more silt, silty loams. The exception to

these soil types are soils with organic matter content

higher than 12%, which can be dened as organic

soils (see 3.1.7).

The determination of soil granule size is conducted

in laboratories using an oven, different sieves and

several solutions for cleaning the sample. There are

other non-scientic, cost-effective methods, such as

the jar method. The instructions are as follows: take an

empty cylindrical jar, put two cups of the soil in the jar

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil Type Identication

& Analysis

Soil Health

The most convenient method to measure SOM is the

‘weight loss on ignition method’ (LOI). The requisite

tools are an oven and a balance. An oven is used

to prepare a dry soil sample (12 hours at 105°C).

This is weighed on the balance, put back in the oven

(16h at 375°C), and weighed again. The weight loss

is equal to the organic matter content of the soil. This

includes plant and animal residues at various stages

of decomposition, cells and tissues of soil organisms,

and substances synthesised by soil organisms.

Organic matter content is expressed as a percentage

of the total mass. Most topsoils have an organic matter

content of 1% to 6%. Some low-lying soils may have

higher proportions. If organic content is higher than

12%, it is known as organic soil (for example, Histosols

or Organosols).

Soil testing must be conducted among a minimum of

20% of the LGs within a PU annually, with different LGs

participating each year, so that all groups are covered

over a period of 5 years.

However, Producers are encouraged to conduct

higher samples, when this is feasible, in order to be

able to inform decision-making on fertiliser use and

potentially to be able to monitor progress.

Assessing soil organic matter content

Soil Organic Matter (SOM) is the fraction of the soil

consisting of plant and animal residues in various

stages of decomposition. Organic matter contains

organic carbon and nitrogen. Carbon is a source of

energy, and nitrogen is a source of protein for

microorganisms in the soil. Some of the

microorganisms are pathogens that cause plant

disease, but in a healthy soil, the vast majorities of

these organisms are benecial and help prevent

any one type of organism (such as a plant pathogen)

from being dominant.

Organic matter in the soil is the key to soil health.

SOM improves many physical, chemical, and

biological characteristics of the soil, including water

retention capacity, cation exchange capacity, pH

buffering capacity, and chelation of micronutrients.

Furthermore, well decomposed SOM improves

soil structure by increasing aggregation, enhances

biological activities in the soil, slowly releases

nutrients, and suppresses some diseases. A loss

of SOM can lead to soil erosion, loss of fertility,

compaction and general land degradation.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil

Structure

Soil Health

To identify the structure of soil, it is important to rst

examine exposed soil that includes topsoil, rst 20 cm

or 8 inches deep, and subsoil (depth dependent on

permeability, but if possible 40 cm or 16 inches will be

sufcient). The characteristics of well-structured and

poorly structured soils should be identied and

understood.

Enhancing the soil starts with a critical look at the data

arising from the soil analysis. A pH-value lower than

5.5 or higher than 7.8 means that any soil structure

improvement will have to start with improving the

pH-value. This is usually achieved by adding several

tonnes per hectare of lime (if too acid) or gypsum

(if too base). Lime and gypsum can also be used to

bring soils with a pH-value between 5.5 and 7.8 closer

to the optimum of between 6.0 and 6.5. At this level,

however, the amounts and pH value of both organic

and inorganic fertilisers begin to inuence the pH

value of the soil.

soil structure. However, soil structure is not simply

determined by the number of granules and organic

matter in the soil. It is the sum of interactions of the

physical, chemical, and biological processes in the

soil, in which these granules, organic matter, and soil

organisms, play the most important roles.

Component II:

Enhancing and maintaining of soil structure

Refer to indicators:

– 3.1.7

– 3.1.9

– 3.1.11

Soil structure describes the arrangement of the solid

parts of the soil and of the pore space located

between them. It is determined by the way in which

individual soil granules clump, bind together and

aggregate, resulting in the arrangement of soil pores

between them. Soil structure has a major inuence on

water and air movement, biological activity, root

growth and seedling emergence.

A good soil structure will provide: an improved growth

of crops, through improved root penetration and

access to soil moisture and nutrients; improved

emergence of seedlings due to reduced crusting

of the surface; and greater water inltration, water

retention and water availability due to improved

porosity. It also reduces erosion due to greater soil

aggregate strength and decreased overland ow,

and enhanced soil bio-activity and biodiversity.

Put simply, soil structure starts with the distribution or

build-up of the soil through the different soil granules

and the amount of organic matter. Ideal soils are made

up of a mixture of clay, silt and sand, with a reasonable

amount of organic matter. If the soil has an excess of

one type of granule (for example too much sand),

more organic matter will be needed to enhance the

Topsoil (rst 20 cm deep) Subsoil

Well

structured

Plenty of spaces or pores between the

aggregates. You can easily crumble

moist soil clumps between your thumb

and nger.

Larger blocks or clumps than the

topsoil, with many vertical cracks

or channels. It can easily be broken

apart when moist.

Poorly

structured

Dense aggregates of soil with few pores.

You will nd it hard to break

the clumps apart even when the soil

is moist.

Also dense and may form a hard pan

with few pores or cracks in the soil.

Below the pan, the soil structure may

be satisfactory, or the compaction may

go deeper into the subsoil.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil

Structure

Soil Health

When choosing the right tillage for a certain crop,

on a certain soil, in a certain climate, it is worthwhile

considering diverse options, including low-tillage

and zero tillage.

Avoiding excessive soil

Compaction is the increase of bulk density or

decrease in porosity of the soil due to externally or

internally applied loads. It adversely affects nearly

all physical, chemical and biological processes,

as it causes a reduction in soil volume by decreasing

the voids in between soil particles. This displaces

water and air, reduces permeability for water and air,

and prevents deeper root penetration. Soil compaction

is a complex problem, in which soil, crops, weather

and machinery interact.

1. Soils with high clay content are more susceptible to

compaction. Soils with higher organic matter content

are less susceptible.

2. Avoiding soil disturbance during periods of

excessive dry or wet, when soils may accordingly

tend to shatter or smear.

3. Avoiding or using alternative tillage methods.

4. Avoiding the use of heavy vehicles on the elds.

Managing water quality and quantity

Enhancing the soil structure leads to a reduced need

for irrigation, as its improved porosity means that both

irrigated water and rain can better inltrate the soil,

moisture retention is improved and therefore more

water is available to the plant. The decline of soil

structure under irrigation is usually related to the

breakdown of aggregates and dispersion of clay

material due to rapid wetting. This is particularly the

case if soils are sodic; that is, they have a high

exchangeable sodium percentage of cations attached

to the clays. This percentage will increase if irrigation

uses salty water (even of low concentration). Cotton is

somewhat resistant to salt and drought, which does

lead to the use of salty water for irrigation (see also

Principle 2, component IV Water Quality Management)

Enhanced soil structure is achieved by;

1. Management of organic matter

(see component IV Nutrient Cycle)

2. Choice of tillage (see Tillage below)

3. Prevention of compaction by tillage techniques

(see Compaction below)

4. Water management and irrigation

(see Water management below)

5. Cultivation of diverse crops through crop rotation,

intercropping etc., using diverse crops with different

rooting depths and soil use.

Adopting adequate tillage practices

‘Heavy tillage’ such as ploughing, harrowing, digging

and hoeing, affects the soil in three ways:

1. Opening the soil – this airs and heats the soil, and

accelerates the mineralisation of organic matter into

nutrients for the crop. It also destroys the soil

structure, leading to reduced air and water retention

capacity, which, after rainfall, will result in saturated

soil (very little air) and surface runoff. If there are

strong winds after ploughing but before the rain

starts (very common in monsoon climates), this will

also result in considerable wind erosion, commonly

forming dust belts. While heating up the soil before

planting is benecial in temperate climates, it is not

necessary in tropical or sub-tropical climates.

Mineralisation of organic matter is already much

faster in tropical and sub-tropical climates, so

ploughing only helps to mineralise the last organic

matter content in the soil, which is usually lost by

erosion before the planting of the crop.

2. Ploughing under organic matter still on the surface

– organic matter under the surface mineralises faster

than on the surface. Again, benecial in temperate

climates, but less so in tropical and sub-tropical

climates, where mineralisation already takes place

more rapidly, due to the higher temperatures.

Additionally, leaving organic matter on the surface

as a mulch helps to protect the soil against wind and

water erosion, and if applied well, can signicantly

reduce weeds.

3. Creating a plant bed for the crop’s seeds to

germinate – while the whole plot is turned into a seed

bed, this also creates the ideal conditions for seeds of

weeds to germinate. By using low-tillage or zero

tillage technologies, these weeds can be minimised.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil

Fertility

Soil Health

bale. This means that if the cotton seeds were returned

to the eld and the plant residues were left on the eld,

there would be no need for replenishment. Seed

cotton is commercially used to produce vegetable oil

and animal feed (for ruminant livestock). Usually, plant

residue is left on the eld, ploughed under, or burnt.

If it is burnt, that could lead, in a worst-case scenario,

to a loss of nutrients of up to 30 kg nitrogen, 10 kg

of phosphate and 30 kg of potash, per 227 kg bale

harvested.

Ensuring appropriate timing and fertiliser levels

Soil nutrients are taken up by cotton in direct

proportion to growth and temperature, with total

nutrient uptake for NPK tracking cumulative heat units.

This means that the timing relating to when nutrients

are available can be predicted, planned and tracked.

The amounts of fertilisers used should be determined

through a combination of factors: expected yield, soil

health, farmers’ experience and cost benets.

Nitrogen is essential for the development of shoots,

buds, leaves, roots and bolls. Cotton takes up about

30 kg of nitrogen per 227kg bale produced, although

it should be noted that nitrogen uptake gures can

vary considerably. Uptake is limited early in the

season prior to squaring, with the majority of nitrogen

taken up after the rst bloom. A good nitrogen

management scheme consists of three fundamental

elements:

1. Supplying approximately 10% – 20% of the total

seasonal nitrogen fertiliser need prior to bloom.

2. Supplying the remaining nitrogen required during

the boll development period.

3. Depleting soil nitrogen to generate an abrupt

deciency, helping to mature the crop for harvest.

Since cotton is an indeterminate perennial, too much

nitrogen late in the season may cause excessive

vegetative growth and should be avoided. Additionally,

while grains and most vegetables maintain high yields

when excess nitrogen is applied, cotton is one of the

few crops that responds adversely to excess nitrogen.

In fact, cotton suffers delayed maturity with high

nitrogen levels. This is due to both reduced early boll

retention and delayed boll opening, and severely

decreases yield and quality in short growing seasons.

Component III:

Enhancing and maintaining soil fertility

Refer to indicators:

– 3.1.12

– 3.1.15

Soil fertility refers to the ability of a soil to sustain

agricultural plant growth. A fertile soil has multiple

properties. One of these is the ability to supply

essential plant nutrients, which is measured in NPK

quantity and pH value. NPK measurements should

ideally be conducted just before the growing season,

and just after, before or during a major application of

organic fertilisers, lime, or even oods. Such a major

application would also require the measurement of the

pH value.

The levels of particular nutrients needed for fertilisation

depends on the cultivation type, cotton variety,

expected yield, farmer’s expertise, eld history, and

economical cost benets. As a minimum, Producers

should replenish what has been removed from the

eld, for example via harvest. Using the NPK

measurements, each Producer should develop a

better understanding of and have better control of

fertiliser use, both organic and inorganic. The NPK

levels mentioned in the previous sections are

indicative and should not be used as a

recommendation for cultivation.

Replenishing the soil

Cotton is exceptional because of its massive and very

deep root system, which enables it to nd nutrients

deep in the soil. If the soil is permeable, the roots can

be up to eight metres deep. In comparison, most

crops will obtain 80% of their nutrients from the topsoil

(rst 20 cm) and tend to have roots of up to two metres

deep (mostly for water security). Furthermore, the fact

that cotton is not closely related to any other major

annual crop, makes it ideal for any crop rotation

scheme.

Replenishing the soil of nutrients taken up by the crop

is an essential component of preventing of soil

depletion. Generally, the amount of NPK taken off

is negligible, being approximately 1 kg of nitrogen,

0.3 kg of phosphate and 3 kg of potash per 227 kg

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Soil

Fertility

Soil Health

pressure within the boll for bre elongation, and for this

reason, bolls are a major sink for potassium. Cotton

takes up about 30 kg of K2O per bale. The need for

potassium increases dramatically during early boll set,

and about 70% of uptake occurs after the rst bloom.

A shortage of potassium compromises bre quality

and results in plants that are more susceptible to

drought stress and diseases. Pre-plant applications

of potassium fertiliser, and in some cases mid-season

foliar applications, are effective in correcting

deciencies.

Phosphorus is important in early root development,

photosynthesis, cell division, energy transfer, early boll

development, and acceleration towards maturity.

About 15 kg of P2O5 is taken up per bale of cotton

produced. Insufcient phosphorus results in dwarfed

plants, delayed fruiting and maturity, and reduced

yield.

Potassium is an especially important nutrient in cotton

production. It reduces the incidence and severity of

wilt diseases, increases water use efciency, and

affects bre properties such as length and strength.

It is also important in maintaining sufcient water

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 3: Soil Health

Nutrient

Cycling

Soil Health

This cycling of organic matter, as well as its NPK

levels, pH value, timing and results must be monitored

and managed. A good soil management plan should

aim to dene the quantity and timing of available

nutrients, and should be based on a combination of

soil and plant analyses, eld history and experience.

Good nutrient management can result in higher cotton

yields, improved bre quality, greater water and

nutrient use efciency, and more prot. Over

fertilisation is costly to the Producer and the

environment. It is also undesirable for the crop,

resulting in maturity delays and increased vulnerability

to insect pests and diseases.

Burning of plant residue and other organic matter

In some countries, the burning of cotton plant residue

is or was enforced by law in order to combat bollworm,

a pest that would otherwise survive in the plant residue

until the next growing season. Other residues are

traditionally burned as well. Burning can be seen as

rapid mineralisation, in which soil microorganisms are

bypassed. There is a signicant loss of minerals –

straight into the air (smoke), through air erosion

(y away), leaching and surface erosion. The burning

of organic matter is seen by many as a means of

increasing soil fertility, but it only delivers the minerals

there are not immediately lost (in the ways described

above). Far more nutrients are delivered to the soil

if the organic matter is not burned and is simply left on

the soil to decompose. Clearly, burned organic matter

cannot help to enhance soil structure, fertility or

biodiversity. The burning of organic matter should

therefore be avoided, not in the least to reduce

greenhouse gas emissions. Crop rotation offers a

viable solution to preventing bollworm from surviving

in plant residue.

Component IV:

Continuously improving nutrient cycling

Refer to indicators:

– 3.1.10

– 3.1.13

– 3.1.14

– 3.1.16

As discussed under Component II, the use of organic

matter is fundamental. The organic matter component

of soil consists of: plant and animal residues at various

stages of decomposition, cells and tissues of soil

organisms, and substances synthesised by soil

organisms. It can be divided into four general pools:

living biomass of microorganisms, fresh litter

(plant residue) and partially decomposed residues,

and humus (well-decomposed organic material).

Decomposition results from biochemical processes

completed by soil microorganisms. They obtain the

energy they need from organic matter and produce

the mineral compounds (nutrients) that are absorbed

by crop roots. The process through which organic

compounds are broken down and transformed into

mineral (inorganic) compounds is also referred to

as mineralisation. A portion of organic material is not

mineralised but transformed into stable organic matter

(humus).

Put simply, organic fertiliser will largely decompose

into nutrients. When these nutrients are available

for the crop, it acts as a slow release fertiliser. New

organic matter needs to replace the mineralised

organic matter, in order to enhance the soil structure

and soil fertility, and feed the soil micro-organisms.

Using organic matter from different origins will

increase the biodiversity of soil organisms.

The origin of organic matter from animals can be

divided into, for example, dung, manure, bone meal.

Organic matter from plants can be divided into, for

example, crop residue, other plant waste and green

manure. Organic matter from an animal origin usually

holds higher nitrogen values and other soil nutrients.

Organic matter from plant origin is the most important

when it comes to improving soil structure. When using

organic matter carefully, Producers should check for

unwanted pollution. When using organic matter from

plant origin, it is important to verify the family of the

plant (as per the process for crop rotation), in order

to ensure that pest cycles are broken.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction to the Principle:

Biodiversity refers to the variety or range of life in a

particular habitat. On-farm biodiversity is what

constitutes agricultural ecosystems (agro-ecosystem).

Put simply, this is the variety and variability of animals,

plants and micro-organisms at the genetic, species

and ecosystem levels, which are necessary to sustain

key functions of the agro-ecosystem, its structure and

processes. Biodiversity can be of practical, aesthetic,

recreational, intrinsic or ethical value to people, and is

also linked to ecosystem resilience.

Biodiversity is directly impacted by the existence and

quality of habitats. Land used for the production of

crops has typically been cleared of vegetation and

natural habitats, and this habitat clearing has a direct

and signicant negative impact on biodiversity. The

need to conserve and ultimately enhance natural

habitats, and therefore biodiversity, is important for a

number of reasons. A reduction in habitat reduces or

eliminates the breeding, foraging or migratory routes

of many species. The cultivation of single crops over

a large area reduces the total number of species able

to live within that area, and promotes the establishment

of dominant populations that may also be pests.

A more diverse habitat supports a more diverse range

of species able to live there, and thus more potential

competitors for potential pests. For these reasons,

enhancing biological diversity is ultimately benecial

for fauna and ora in and around the farm, but also

increases yields and therefore prots.

It is now widely recognised that climate change and

biodiversity are interconnected. Due to climate change,

the ability of many ecosystems to adapt naturally is

likely to be put at risk from associated disturbances

such as ooding, drought, wildre and insects, etc.

Cotton farmers are likely to suffer complex, localised

impacts of climate change. These already affect the

ecosystem services on which agricultural biodiversity

relies. Likewise, biodiversity loss due to agricultural

activities such as land use change, pollution or

over-exploitation of water and soil resources is also

a cause of climate change. Farmers are responsible

for mitigating and adapting to these impacts.

Consequently, enhancing and sustainably managing

biodiversity is critical to addressing climate change.

To lessen their impact on biodiversity, BCI Farmers

can conserve or enhance areas of natural habitat on

their land, and adopt practices that minimise the

negative impact on the habitat surrounding their farm.

Mapping biodiversity as a way to undertake an analysis

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

BCI Farmers Enhance Biodiversity

and Use Land Responsibly

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

local communities and indigenous people. Therefore,

conducting stakeholder consultations and negotiating

land and resource use rights through Free, Prior and

Informed Consent (FPIC) is paramount. Finally,

management practices adopted to help achieve other

Criteria, such as IPM, pesticide choice (using the least

disruptive option), soil fertility and erosion control, will

all contribute to enhancing biodiversity both on and off

the farm.

of existing fauna and ora in and surrounding the farm

is an important rst step.

BCI Farmers should also ensure that social and

environmental values of signicant importance, such as

High Conservation Values (HCVs), are not damaged by

conversion (from non-agricultural land to agricultural

land). They should manage and monitor these over

time.

Applying the HCV approach in the context of

expansion or new cotton farms must take place in a

socially responsible way that respects the rights of

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

farms and developing solutions to partially or fully

restore these areas overtime helps BCI Farmers to

enhance biodiversity and ultimately increase their

yields.

Better management of natural pest control

Natural pest control is a real vector of biodiversity

enhancement. To harness this technique, BCI

Farmers must create a balance of organisms on their

farms. Achieving this balance relies on products that

minimise harm to pollinators and other benecial

insects (such as traps, lures, repellents, biopesticides

or botanical insecticides, etc.). When biocontrol

includes the introduction of non-native benecial

insects, a precautionary approach must be taken,

notably through the implementation of appropriate

protocols.

Improved crop rotation management

Diverse crop rotations increase farm biodiversity,

improve soil and boost crop yields. High quality soils

encourage dense populations of microorganisms,

enhance natural biological control of pathogens, help

to ensure a slow turnover of nutrients, encourage

communities of benecial insects, and improve soil

aeration and drainage.

Reduced pressure on riparian areas

by setting buffers

Riparian buffer strips are typically farmland

biodiversity hotspots. They ensure habitat diversity

and connectivity with other habitats. Those vegetated

areas next to water resources also protect water

resources from pollution and provide bank

stabilisation, as well as aquatic and wildlife habitat.

BCI Farmers should develop a strategy to preserve

those areas.

The biodiversity management plan adopted by the

Producer must be designed as a subcomponent of

the general CIP, as described under Criterion 7.1.

Intent

A Biodiversity Management Plan is a practical tool

for conserving and enhancing biodiversity on and

surrounding the farm. The objectives and benets

of adopting a Biodiversity Management plan include

the following:

Better understanding of the biodiversity resources

upon which cotton production depends and upon

which it impacts

Mapping agricultural biodiversity resources helps

BCI Farmers to better understand which animal,

vegetal and microbial species are present on

and around their farms. It also helps to highlight

the interconnection between these resources, the

environment and the management systems and

farming practices. Through mapping, BCI Farmers

can also gain an insight into the level of biodiversity

degradation in and around their farms, if any.

An appropriate methodology to manage areas

in critical situations

Soil compaction, eroded areas, salt-affected or

nutrient-depleted areas represent well known cases

of land degradation. The productivity of those lands

is severely threatened, and economic loss derived

from this situation is now a major challenge in

agriculture. Identifying those areas on and around

The Producer must adopt a Biodiversity

Management Plan that conserves and enhances

biodiversity on and surrounding the farm and

includes all of the following components:

i. Identifying and mapping biodiversity

resources;

ii. Identifying and restoring degraded areas;

iii. Enhancing populations of benecial insects

as per the Integrated Pest Management plan

(Principle 1);

iv. Ensuring crop rotation;

v. Protecting riparian areas.

CRITERION 4.1

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

4.1.1

A time-bound Biodiversity Management Plan that addresses each

of the ve following components, is dened:

i. Identifying and mapping biodiversity resources;

ii. Identifying and restoring degraded areas;

iii. Enhancing populations of benecial insects, as per the Integrated Pest

Management plan (Principle 1);

iv. Ensuring crop rotation;

v. Protecting riparian areas.

4.1.2

A timeline for implementing the ve components of the Biodiversity

Management Plan is established.

4.1.3

Biodiversity resources are identied and mapped.

4.1.4

Degraded areas on the farm are identied.

4.1.5

Measures to restore degraded areas are implemented,

as per the Biodiversity Management Plan.

4.1.6

Measures are implemented to protect water courses and wetlands in and

adjacent to the farm, including maintaining and/or restoring appropriate

riparian and other buffer zones, as per the Biodiversity Management Plan.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

4.1.7

Proportion of farms implementing measures to restore degraded areas,

as per the Biodiversity Management Plan.

4.1.8

Proportion of farms implementing measures to protect water courses and

wetlands in and adjacent to the farm, including maintaining and/or restoring

appropriate riparian and other buffer zones, as per the Biodiversity

Management Plan.

4.1.9

Where unfarmed or grazed land is present on the farm, regular biodiversity

surveys (covering wildlife and plant life abundance and condition)

are conducted.

✔ ✔ ✔

✔

✔ ✔

✔

✔ ✔ ✔

✔ ✔

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

‘Surrounding areas’ means areas such as those

adjacent to the cotton eld, but also more distant

areas impacted by on-farm management activities.

The Producer must be aware of the potential negative

and positive impacts of their production activities on

the biodiversity surrounding the farm, and ensure that

good agricultural practices are used to mitigate

negative impacts.

Opportunities to enhance off-farm biodiversity through

local or national Producer collaboration may be also

possible, and should be explored.

Guidance for implementation

The ve components listed in 4.1.1 are relevant

for all cotton producers. While implementing all

components of the plan are considered at core

indicator level for medium and large farms,

smallholders should only implement the two

rst components at core level and the other as

improvement indicators.

The biodiversity management plan is primarily

intended for implementation ‘on farm’, but actions

by the farmer to conserve and enhance biodiversity

will impact the surrounding area in most cases.

Most notably, the use of chemicals and or actions

that may lead to soil erosion or siltation of waterways

could negatively impact surrounding areas, such

as chemical contamination downstream or food

chain disturbance in the local natural habitat.

Similarly, appropriate management practices such

as restoring degraded areas or setting riparian

buffers can signicantly increase animal, plant

and micro-organism presence in the farm and

its surrounding areas.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

Mapping

Medium and large farms

The Producer is responsible for identifying and

mapping biodiversity values on the farm (e.g. patches

of natural vegetation, water bodies, seasonal streams,

riparian buffers and important plant and animal

species, particularly any nationally protected species

and any known cases of biocontrol for cotton pests).

This could also include inventories of biological and

ecological information for selected species and/or

habitats, and an assessment of the conservation status

of species within specied ecosystems or habitats.

The Producer is expected to consult external experts

(e.g. Ministry of Environment, conservation or NGOs),

and must conduct biodiversity mapping (through

mapping tool or GIS technology), in order to produce

maps to be used for managing biodiversity.

Component I:

Identifying and mapping biodiversity resources

Refer to indicators:

– 4.1.3

– 4.1.9

Biodiversity identication and mapping is required

for all farms, both existing and expanded farms.

In the case of conversion of non-agricultural land to

agricultural land (see Criterion 4.2), identifying and

mapping biodiversity can be combined with the

HCV assessment, which also includes resources

identication to maximise efciency. However,

for cases where no land conversion is planned,

the following guidance applies:

Smallholders

Within each LG, (or across several neighbouring LGs),

BCI Farmers must map the area spanned by all the LG

members’ farms, and identify biodiversity values within

this area. Biodiversity values may include patches of

natural vegetation, water bodies, seasonal streams,

riparian buffers, important plant and animal species

(especially any nationally protected species and any

known cases of biocontrol for cotton pests). At a

minimum, a rough sketch must be prepared with input

from all LG members, through participatory mapping

(a map-making process that seeks to highlight the

association between land and farmers or local

communities by using cartography and resource

inventory tools). If access to external experts (e.g.

governmental environmental ofces, environmental

NGOs working in the area) or mapping tools

(e.g. Geographic Information System (GIS) technology

and data) are available, the quality of this exercise

will be improved.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

Degraded Areas,

IPM & Crop Rotation

Component III:

Supporting natural pest control

as per the Integrated Pest Management plan

Encouraging natural pest control on the farm, such

as managing habitat for pest predators, use of

bacterial, botanical or semiochemical pest control

agents, cultural control (change in irrigation practices),

mechanical control (e.g. trapping) reduces the need

for chemical control. This in turn generates benets

for water and soil health, and biodiversity generally.

Introduction of non-native pest control organisms

requires that the Producer monitor and control the

use of biological control agents. He must have access

to relevant information and get capacity for assessing

and managing risks related to the use of those

technologies.

Component IV:

Ensuring crop rotation

Refer to indicators:

– 4.1.4

– 4.1.6

Crop rotation is one of the most effective cultural

control strategies for enhancing biodiversity. It involves

rotating specic crops planted (one after the other) on

the same eld, in a planned order. The succeeding

crop must belong to a different family than the

previous one. Crop rotation is an important means for

improving and maintaining soil health, for example by

breaking disease cycles, balancing nitrogen levels

and ensuring the biological ripping of the soil.

Component II:

Identifying and restoring degraded areas

Refer to indicator:

– 4.1.4

– 4.1.5

– 4.1.7

Identifying areas degraded by overgrazing, erosion or

water-logging is required for all farms within and

adjacent to the boundaries of the farm. It may include

areas of erosion near roads and streams, or areas of

natural vegetation (e.g. patches or corridors) that

require restoration with extra planting of native species

or protection from overharvesting. Farmers must

identify degraded areas and dene ways to restore

the areas and enhance biodiversity, as dened in the

management plans. They may join existing public

or NGO conservation or restoration programmes for

which their farms are eligible.

Smallholders

Farmers must coordinate at LG level (or across several

neighbouring LGs), to map the area encompassing

all LG members’ farms, and identify degraded areas

within this area. The PU must foster exchanges among

farmers to dene restoration and conservation

management practices, potentially through existing

government or NGO programmes.

Medium and large farms

For larger farms, Producers must individually identify

and map degraded areas in and adjacent to the

boundaries of their farm. On large scale farms with

more intensive practices, managers should ensure

that their operating practices (e.g. irrigation, chemical

application) do not contribute to degradation

(reduction in biodiversity), and should restore

degraded areas.

Link with

Principle 1

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

Riparian

Buffers

The width of buffer zones should be determined

by the function of the buffer (e.g. biodiversity

conservation, ltration of chemical runoff), the slope

of the buffer area, and the size (width) of the river or

stream. In some countries, buffers sizes are dened

by regulation. The Producer should nd out whether

this information is available.

Protection of water courses and wetlands should

include management activities to:

– delineate and protect buffer zones;

– train farmers and/or workers on activities permitted

or prohibited in buffer zones;

– verify that buffers are maintained

(i.e. not degrading or reducing in size).

Component V:

Protecting riparian areas

Refer to indicators:

– 4.1.6

– 4.1.8

A riparian buffer is a vegetated area (a ‘buffer strip’)

near a stream, usually forested, which helps shade

and partially protect a stream from the impact of

adjacent land uses. It plays a key role in increasing

water quality in associated streams, rivers and lakes,

thereby providing environmental benets.

The protection of riparian land is particularly important,

as it is often the most fertile and productive part of the

landscape. As riparian land is associated with water,

it generally supports a greater diversity of plant and

animal life than non-riparian land, and provides a

refuge for animals during times of stress (such as

drought, re or hunting). It is important that riparian

land is not cleared of vegetation, and that it is

protected from farm runoff and erosion. Removal of

riparian vegetation can lead to the destabilisation of

stream and river banks, as well as increased erosion.

Practices implemented to address soil health criteria

also help to protect riparian zones. However, given its

crucial importance within the landscape, riparian land

may require particular attention to ensure protection

from farm runoff. For example, it may be possible to

divert runoff leaving the farm from riparian land, or to

ensure the presence of suitable well-vegetated buffer

strips placed between riparian land and the crop.

Guidance for the mapping and understanding of water

sources is provided under Principle 2. To ensure

compliance with Principle 4, it is vital that water bodies

and their buffer zones are protected over time, both

in terms of their size and quality.

Link with

Principle 2

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

By introducing the HCV approach, this new criterion

is intended to provide a framework to ensure that the

rights of local communities and indigenous peoples

are respected in cases of new expansion (land use

change from non-agricultural to agricultural land).

Cases of new expansion may pose a risk to local

people if the expansion overlaps areas with unclear

tenure, or where people’s land access or use rights

could be impacted by cotton expansion, e.g. where

a proposed expansion overlaps with areas that are

important for livelihoods, or cultural or spiritual areas.

The principles of FPIC are relevant to the identication

of HCVs, particularly when:

– Areas or resources used by local people may

be proposed for conservation purposes;

– Resources (e.g. shing or hunting grounds,

drinking water) could be negatively impacted

by cotton production.

BCI has collaborated with the High Conservation

Value Resource Network (HCVRN) to develop an HCV

risk-based, simplied approach with a procedure

adapted to the context of BCI Farmers. The analysis

required a denition of the level of risk posed to

HCVs, and the resulting HCV assessment procedure

will be tested before nal approval.

Intent

An HCV is a biological, ecological, social or cultural

value of outstanding signicance or critical

importance. There are six HCV categories ranging

from biodiversity, habitats and ecosystem services

to livelihoods and cultural values (see Guidance for

denitions). One of the main strengths of the HCV

approach is that it includes both biological/ecological

and social/cultural values. The approach involves

identifying and maintaining these special values

over time (through management and monitoring).

In the case of land use change, or conversion from

non-agricultural land to agricultural land, the HCV

approach acts as a safeguard against damaging

important environmental and social values – which

could in turn create conict and risk for the Producer.

For the conversion of land used to grow cotton,

the Producer must adopt the High Conservation

Value approach and respect the right of local

communities and indigenous people

CRITERION 4.2

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

4.2.1

In the case of any proposed conversion from non-agricultural land

to agricultural land, the BCI High Conservation Value risk-based simplied

approach must be implemented.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

4.2.2

Where High Conservation Values are identied, a management

and monitoring plan is implemented to maintain those values.

✔ ✔ ✔

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

Land Use

Change

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

Land Use

Change

HCVRN Guidance: English version & Multiple languages

HCV 5: Sites and resources fundamental

for satisfying the basic necessities of

local communities or indigenous peoples

(for livelihoods, health, nutrition, water, etc.),

identied through engagement with these

communities or indigenous peoples.

E.g. important hunting or gathering areas for

communities who depend on these resources as

part of their basic household economy.

HCV 6: Sites, resources, habitats and

landscapes of global or national cultural,

archaeological or historical signicance, and/or of

critical cultural, ecological, economic or religious/

sacred importance for the traditional cultures of

local communities or indigenous peoples,

identied through engagement with these local

communities or indigenous peoples.

E.g. sacred burial grounds, old village remains,

shrines, sacred groves.

For an overview of the HCV approach (which includes

risk analysis, HCV identication, management and

monitoring), including examples of HCVs and useful

information sources, refer to HCVRN Guidance

In the case of land use change, or more specically to

BCI’s context, conversion from non-agricultural land to

agricultural land, the HCV approach acts

as a safeguard against damaging those important

environmental and social values, which could

in turn create conict and risk for the Producer.

It is acknowledged that in most BCI countries,

the risk of conversion of HCV land areas for the

purpose of producing cotton is relatively low,

but the provision in the standard needs to be

reinforced to address occasional high-risk situations.

Guidance for implementation

BCI recognises that there is intrinsic and extrinsic

value attached to social and environmental elements in

the landscape, and that these values must not

be lost in the process of producing cotton. Land use

change comes with increased risk to biodiversity and

other resources used by local people, and therefore it

is important to identify any values early on so that they

are not damaged by expanding cotton operations. BCI

requires the use of the HCV assessment to identify,

maintain and monitor those values. The HCV Resource

Network categorises HCVs as follows:

HCV 1: Concentrations of biological

diversity including endemic species, and rare,

threatened or endangered species that are

signicant at global, regional or national levels.

E.g. the presence of several globally threatened

bird species.

HCV 2: Intact Forest Landscapes and large

landscape-level ecosystems and ecosystem

mosaics that are signicant at global, regional or

national levels, and that contain viable populations

of the great majority of naturally occurring species

in natural patterns of distribution and abundance.

E.g. a large tract of forest, grasslands or wetlands

(or a mosaic of these ecosystems) with healthy

populations of wide-ranging species (e.g. large

mammals), as well as smaller species.

HCV 3: Rare, threatened, or endangered

ecosystems, habitats or refugia.

E.g. patches of a regionally rare type of freshwater

swamp or a rare forest type.

HCV 4: Basic ecosystem services in critical

situations, including protection of water

catchments and control of erosion of vulnerable

soils and slopes.

E.g. a forest on steep slopes with landslide

risk above a town.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

Land Use

Change

BCI and the HCVRN have therefore developed a

ground-breaking, risk-based simplied procedure that

allows Producers to assess the level of risk that any

land conversion poses to HCVs, and leads to the

implementation of simplied mitigation measures in

cases where elevated risks are identied.The process

is as follows:

1. All Producers (PUs and LFs) identify

any planned land conversion at the start

of the season

If any land conversion is planned

2. Producers conduct a simple risk assessment on

10 to 12 risk factors.

If any elevated risk is identied.

3. Producers implement the mitigation measures

prescribed or suggested

in the procedure.

4. As part of the assurance programme, veriers

assess that all applicable steps

have been conducted appropriately.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

For a more detailed description of the assessment

process, please consult the risk assessment

procedure respectively for smallholders and medium/

large farms.

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

Land Use

Change

PRODUCER IDENTIFIES ANY

PLANNED LAND CONVERSION

AT THE START OF THE SEASON

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Planned

conversion

No planned

conversion

No further

action required

RISK ASSESSMENT (WITH RISK ASSESSMENT TOOL)

VERIFICATION

Elevated

risk

Low

risk

No further

action required

High

risk

HCVRN licenced

assessment

Conversion

is not allowed

HCV

mitigation plan

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

In the event of delegation of control over project

development or the establishment of bespoke areas,

a binding agreement between The Producer and local

communities shall be concluded through FPIC.

The agreement shall dene its duration, provisions

for renegotiation, renewal, termination, economic

conditions and other terms and conditions. The

agreement shall make provision for participatory

monitoring by local communities within its terms

and conditions. Binding agreements may be, but are

not limited to, written agreements. They may also

be based on oral and honour systems, to be applied

in cases where written agreements are not favoured

by indigenous peoples, either for practical reasons or

on principle. The Producer must maintain appropriate

records of these agreements, which may include

written accounts, audio or lm records, etc.

The process of FPIC applies not only in the case

of legally recognised rights, but may also include

cases where rights of local communities or indigenous

peoples are unclear or under negotiation (e.g.

customary rights). It is paramount to identify rights

holders and their representative institutions as well

as their respective claims and rights. Once this is

done, local communities and indigenous people

should select their own representatives. For further

guidance, refer to the following guidance:

– FAO

– IFAD

Local communities and/or indigenous people

Local communities and/or indigenous peoples should

play a key role in proposing and identifying potential

HCVs through a participative process. In particular,

when evaluating sites and resources as HCV 5 and 6,

it is necessary to consult widely and ensure that

participatory mapping and social surveys include

representatives from minority, vulnerable and

marginalised groups. Local communities need to

be involved in a consultative process and discuss/

agree to proposed changes through an FPIC process.

Any decision or consent should be made without

coercion or intimidation, with all relevant information

provided and prior to the commencement of any

damaging activities or operations. In addition to local

consultation, experts, local authorities and NGOs

can provide helpful information and context.

The FPIC concept is widely recognised and used by

voluntary standards to ensure that no licence holder

is engaged in project development that violates the

rights of local communities or indigenous people.

Principle 4: Biodiversity

Enhancement & Land Use

Biodiversity

Land Use

Change

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction to the Principle:

As cotton is produced rst and foremost for its bre,

the quality of the bre produced by the farmer is

fundamental to its marketability and value. The

efciency of the gin is affected by the level of trash

within and contamination of the seed cotton.

Similarly, the quality and therefore value of yarn that

can be spun is directly related to the quality of the

lint cotton delivered to the spinning mill (the cost of

the cotton can represent up to 65% of the total

operating costs for a spinning mill). Continuing

advances in spinning technology are placing ever

greater pressure on cotton farmers to supply cotton

that is generally longer, stronger, ner, more uniform

and free from contaminants. These characteristics

of the cotton are of particular importance to the

spinning mills, as they are central to maximising the

speed and efciency at which the mills operate.

Three broad characteristics of the cotton are

important: the inherent characteristics of the bre,

the level of trash, and the level of contamination. The

seed cotton delivered to gins should be as low in

trash as possible, free of contaminants, and not too

wet or dry. The value of cotton lint is related to both

the quality of yarn that can be produced from it, and

the efciency with which this yarn can be produced.

It is therefore essential that BCI Farmers consider

the needs and requirements of the users of the

cotton they are producing. It is also generally the

case that the higher the quality of the cotton, the

higher its value, which should lead to a better price

for the BCI Farmer.

Annex 1 on terms and denitions details the major

bre attributes either measured by or of importance

to the spinning mill, and includes a brief indication

as to why the attribute is important.

The diverse range of quality characteristics includes

both aspects that are directly inuenced by genetic

and seasonal considerations and conditions – and

which can nevertheless also be inuenced by farm

management decisions – and aspects under the

direct control of the farmer, such as the level of

contamination. The focus on quality therefore

includes the need

to manage intrinsic bre characteristics to the extent

to which this is possible (Criterion 5.1), as well as

man-made contamination and trash content

(Criterion 5.2).

Principle 5: Fibre Quality

Fibre Quality

BCI Farmers Care for and Preserve Fibre Quality

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 5: Fibre Quality

Fibre

Features

Fibre Quality

BCI is focused on the farm and therefore on the

aspects of cotton production that are under the

control of the farmer. When transporting cotton from

the farm (when it is imperative that the cotton should

be protected from contamination, in order to preserve

bre quality), for example, BCI recognises that the

responsibility and therefore the ability to manage

contamination risks will vary. However, as it is

possible that the farmer may be directly responsible

for transporting cotton from the farm to the gin, this

situation is included within the scope of this Principle,

under Criterion 5.2

Intent

Trash refers to the degree of cotton leaf remaining in

the lint cotton after it has been ginned. Contamination

refers to anything found in the lint cotton that is not

cotton bre, or cotton leaf. It includes weeds, bark

from the cotton plant, and any man-made substances.

Damage refers to degradation of the bre, and can

result from re or microbial activity. For example, if

cotton is stored when it is too moist, or in conditions

that are too moist, damage from microbes is likely.

The Producer must harvest, manage and store

seed cotton to minimise trash, contamination

and damage.

CRITERION 5.1

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

5.1.1

Good management practices for the harvest and storage of seed cotton

are adopted.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

5.1.2

No polypropylene, polyethylene or any synthetic bags are used during

the harvesting of cotton by hand, nor during storage and transportation.

✔ ✔ ✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 5: Fibre Quality

Fibre

Features

Fibre Quality

and baling (pressing). BCI Farmers must take care,

therefore, to ensure that they adopt practices that

reduce the risk of contamination. For example,

these could include choosing appropriate materials

and methods for wrapping and storing cotton,

and observing hygiene ‘rules’ during storage and

handling. Issues to consider, therefore, are: harvest

management and general hygiene, choice of

materials in which to pick and carry or move cotton,

how and where cotton is stored, and how cotton

is transported.

As noted above, cotton may be at risk of microbial

damage if it is stored in a location with too high a

moisture content. However, low moisture levels can

increase the risk of re. The choice of location for

storing cotton is therefore critical to minimising these

risks.

Guidance for implementation

Many of the characteristics of the bre, such as

length and strength, will already have been

determined by the time the crop is ready to harvest.

However, good management of the harvest –

including of defoliation (where this practice is used),

and of storage and transport of the seed cotton, is

essential to maintaining the quality of the bre,

and ensuring that the cotton is not contaminated

or damaged. Harvest timing and management will

affect the level of trash, and as soon as people

start handling the cotton, a contamination risk arises.

Contaminants can be very difcult to remove from

cotton, and contamination can result in a signicant

downgrading – or outright rejection – of a lot of yarn,

fabric or garments. Contamination is most likely to

occur as a result of poor management practices

during harvest, storage and transport, and ginning

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 5: Fibre Quality

Seed

Management

Fibre Quality

according to the characteristic in question (some

are more sensitive to farm management than others).

It will also vary according to the geographic and

seasonal conditions, such as rainfall, daytime and

night-time temperatures, soil type and pest pressure.

Nevertheless, there are a range of management

practices within the control of the farmer, which,

if implemented, will help ensure (in the absence of

unseasonal weather conditions) that the full potential

of the cultivar’s bre attributes are reached.

Intent

Cotton cultivars vary in their bre quality attributes,

and the choice of cultivar is a signicant factor in

determining bre quality. Also, the characteristics

of the lint produced by a farmer will vary according

to seasonal conditions.

BCI recognises that the ability of a farmer to inuence

the characteristics of the bre they produce will vary

The Producer should adopt management

practices that maximise bre quality.

CRITERION 5.2

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

5.2.1

Number of best practices (validated locally) to maximise bre quality shared

with Better Cotton Initiative Farmers through appropriate dissemination

material in local language.

5.2.2

Proportion of farms adopting recommended practices to maximise bre

quality.

5.2.3

A plan for managing bre quality that includes the following elements –

varietal selection, planting date, planting rate, row spacing, crop growth

and weed management – is developed.

5.2.4

Overall results for the quality of the crop at the end of the last season

are reviewed.

5.2.5

When bre quality problems are identied, an attempt to understand the

reasons for the problems (e.g. by discussing these with other relevant people

such as consultants, agronomists, researchers and merchants) is undertaken,

and actions to remedy the problems are implemented.

✔ ✔

✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 5: Fibre Quality

Seed

Management

Fibre Quality

Generally, good management of these issues will

result in good bre quality. For example, appropriate

irrigation scheduling to avoid stress and maximise

yields will also maximise the quality of the bre.

Similarly, good insect management, as well as

ensuring a good crop yield, will avoid the risk of bre

damage or sticky cotton.

Guidance for implementation

BCI is not establishing a base quality grade that must

be achieved to meet this Principle. Rather, the focus is

on promoting the adoption of practices that are aimed

at producing the best quality cotton possible under the

prevailing circumstances – taking into account the

market for which the cotton is being produced.

Crop management practices that can signicantly

affect bre quality include:

Choice of cultivar: is it appropriate for the local

climatic conditions and the planting date?

Planting date: does it take into account likely

seasonal conditions and pest pressures?

Planting rate and row spacing: are they appropriate

for the variety, soil type and seasonal conditions?

Nutrition management: poor nutrition can result in

lower quality lint, while excess nitrogen can lead to

excess growth, delayed harvest and excess levels

of trash.

Irrigation management: for irrigated farms, it is

important to ensure that the crop is not water-

stressed during the critical stages of bre

development.

Disease management: diseases can stunt crop

growth and lead to reduced cotton bre quality.

Insect management: damage to bolls needs to be

controlled, and late-season aphids and whiteies

need to be controlled in order to avoid ‘sticky’

cotton.

Weed management: weeds in the cotton crop may

lead to contamination of the seed cotton and lint.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction to the Principle:

Decent work is understood by BCI as the concept

developed by the International Labour Organization

(ILO), the UN specialised agency on work and

employment, to describe work that provides

opportunities for women and men to work productively

in conditions of freedom, equity, security and human

dignity. For the ILO and BCI, decent work

encompasses four pillars: fundamental principles

and rights at work and international labour standards;

employment and income opportunities; social

protection and social security; and social dialogue.

By using the concept of decent work as a means to

describe how work contributes to equitable, inclusive

and sustainable development, BCI has developed a

broad-based and consistent approach to the diversity

of contexts in which cotton is produced, from family

smallholdings to large-scale farms.

Not all four pillars of the ILO’s Decent Work Agenda are

‘normative’ – that is, they do not necessarily give rise to

standards. The most relevant component of the Decent

Work Agenda to the BCI P&C is the respect of labour

rights, expressed in international labour standards and

in national labour legislation.

Gender in the Decent Work Agenda

Gender equality forms an intrinsic part of the ILO’s

Decent Work Agenda and as such, is featured

throughout Principle 6. The ILO promotes a holistic

approach to gender equality that addresses the

following:

Access to employment;

Access to social protection;

Access to social dialogue;

Access to principles and rights.

Even though this approach was developed with

governments and other institutional actors in mind, the

underlying principles of equal rights, opportunities and

treatment remain relevant for those seeking to promote

gender equality and decent work in the cotton industry.

International labour standards

BCI considers the ILO to be the international authority

on labour matters. The ILO has developed a system

of international labour standards, which primarily take

the form of Conventions. In 1998, the ILO issued its

Declaration on Fundamental Principles and Rights at

Work, which identied eight of these Conventions as

‘fundamental’. These Conventions cover the four ‘core

Principle 6: Decent Work

Decent Work

BCI Farmers Promote Decent Work

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

labour standards’: freedom of association and the

right to collective bargaining; the elimination of forced

labour; the abolition of child labour and the elimination

of discrimination in respect of employment and

occupation. The 1998 Declaration commits all 183 ILO

Member States to respect and promote principles and

rights in these four areas, whether or not they have

ratied the relevant Conventions.

In determining the content of its Decent Work Principle,

the BCI has referred to both other private voluntary

standards relating to primary agriculture and, primarily,

the ILO Conventions that form the basis for these

voluntary standards. While the BCI Decent Work

Criteria are worded in their own terms, references are

given to the key international standards (ILO

Conventions) that BCI follows.

National labour and occupation

health and safety legislation

The fundamental premise that producing Better Cotton

respects national law underpins all the BCI P&C.

This is particularly relevant to the Decent Work

Principle. Many, and in some cases all, of the areas

covered in the Principle are regulated by national law

in cotton producing countries. BCI therefore requires

that all cotton producers abide by national labour and

occupational health and safety legislation, unless

that legislation sets standards below the referenced

internationally recognised standards and conventions,

in which case the international standards prevail.

This may, for instance, be the case in countries where

agriculture is excluded from the scope of labour and

occupational health and safety legislation. However,

where national legislation sets more stringent

requirements on a specic issue (compared to these

standards), national legislation shall apply.

Applying the HCV approach in the context of expansion

or new cotton farms must take place in a socially

responsible way that respects the rights of local

communities and indigenous people. Therefore,

conducting stakeholder consultations and negotiating

land and resource use rights through Free, Prior and

Informed Consent (FPIC) is paramount. Finally,

management practices adopted to help achieve other

Criteria, such as IPM, pesticide choice (using the least

disruptive option), soil fertility and erosion control, will all

contribute to enhancing biodiversity both on and off the

farm.

Intent

The sustainability of global cotton production

encompasses not only environmental but also social

considerations. For BCI, Better Cotton is ‘better’ only

to the extent to which it generates improvements for

farming communities and farm workers, as well as the

environment.

BCI understands that downward economic pressures

on cotton producers, particularly in developing

countries, are a barrier to improving both the

environmental and social performance of cotton

farming. In seeking to support the development of skills

and institutions – particularly Producer organisations –

and facilitate access to information, BCI strives to

change the circumstances that perpetuate and

entrench unsustainable labour practices in many cotton

producing regions, and enable investment in

improvements for the community, environment and

workforce.

The meaningful application of labour standards to

global cotton cultivation is not straightforward. Within

the sector, there are uid boundaries between self-

employment, family or community labour and waged

labour. It is also important to note that agricultural

waged workers do not form a homogeneous group

of people. They may be full-time, seasonal, temporary,

migrants, child labourers, indigenous workers, piece-

rate workers or a combination of these. Moreover, the

distinction between farmer and worker may be blurred,

as many small farmers also work regularly for other

farmers to supplement their income.

The numerical majority of cotton farmers worldwide

are small-scale producers whose capacity to modify

employment practices is closely linked to farm

economics. That is why BCI has adopted the broad

perspective of decent work, in order to position the

promotion of labour rights within the broader context

of BCI’s commitment to farm-level, needs-based

capacity building. It also serves to explain why BCI

has developed, in close consultation with stakeholders

worldwide, a differential series of Decent Work Criteria,

reecting the different working realities of varying

scales of cotton cultivation.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Decent Work

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Child

Labour

Decent Work

‘family-based’ work. There is agreement that national

and international standards should apply to the

employment of children, governed by ILO Convention

138 on minimum age, or where national legislation

sets a higher minimum age, by the law of the country

in question. This minimum age of employment is at

least 15 years of age, except in those developing

counties that have temporarily set a lower threshold

of 14 years, in accordance with ILO Convention 138.

BCI’s approach to child labour in family smallholdings

seeks to address and secure the child’s right to

education, health, and developmental well-being,

according to age and activity, while recognising the

context of family smallholder agriculture in many

developing country settings. For this reason, an

allowance is made for smallholders, whose children

may help on their family’s farm under certain dened

conditions (listed under Criterion 6.1.3), with clear

improvement plans in place.

This follows the logic of both ILO Convention 138 and

other social sustainability standards in smallholder

agriculture, including the recommendations of the

ISEAL Alliance SASA Harmonisation Project. The

provisions of ILO Convention 138 exclude ‘family and

small-scale holdings producing for local consumption

and not regularly employing hired workers’ (Art.5).

Intent

Child labour is work that is mentally, physically,

socially, or morally dangerous and harmful to children.

It interferes with their schooling by depriving them

of the opportunity to attend school, obliging them

to leave school prematurely, or to combine school

attendance with excessively long and heavy work.

The issue of child labour is typically at the forefront

of discussions when dealing with labour concerns

in the cotton sector. It is reported in many cotton

producing countries, mostly, though not exclusively,

in those characterised by smallholder production.

Children contribute labour to cotton production in

these countries primarily through cotton picking,

and to a lesser degree, through weeding activities.

BCI considers that child labour is both a symptom

and cause of poverty. Given the importance and

complexity of the issue, BCI has given considerable

thought to its approach and consulted a broad range

of parties, including the Regional Working Groups.

This process has brought light the following key

issues.

Contracted child labour is employed in some cotton

producing regions, including those regions where

children’s contributions are commonly described as

The Producer must ensure there is no child

labour, in accordance with ILO Convention 138.

In the case of family smallholdings, children

may help on their family’s farm provided that the

work is not liable to damage their health, safety,

well-being, education or development, and that

they are supervised by adults and given

appropriate training.

CRITERION 6.1

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.1.1

There are no workers below the age of 15 (14 in certain specied countries),

or below the minimum age for employment dened by local law (whichever is

higher).

6.1.2

The Producer has a time-bound plan for the prevention of child labour in

accordance with ILO Convention 138.

6.1.3

There are no workers below the age of 15 (14 in certain specied countries),

or below the minimum age for employment dened by local law (whichever

is higher) unless they meet all of the following conditions:

i. the child is helping on his/her own family’s farm;

ii. the child’s work is structured so as to enable him/her to attend school;

iii. the child’s work should not be so demanding as to undermine his/her

education;

iv. the child should not perform tasks that are hazardous for him/her because

of his/her age;

v. the child must be guided – both in terms of learning skills and supervision

of tasks – by a family member;

vi. the child has received appropriate training.

6.1.4

A written child labour policy, specifying under which circumstances and

for which tasks children can or cannot work or be employed and why,

has been communicated to farmers/workers/employees.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.1.5

Procedures are in place for checking the age of workers,

including record-keeping at farm level.

6.1.6

Child protection or monitoring committees are established.

6.1.7

Proportion of child labourers appropriately transferred to education.

6.1.8

Proportion of family of child labourers provided with alternative sources

of income (through local partnership initiatives).

✔

✔ ✔

✔ ✔ ✔

✔

Principle 6: Decent Work

Child

Labour

Decent Work

Principle 6: Decent Work

Child

Labour

Decent Work

Activity: child labour is dened according to its

negative effects on children. While ‘light work’ may

be undertaken by younger workers from age 15,

‘hazardous work’ should not be performed by

anyone under age 18. ‘Hazardous work’ is work

that jeopardises children’s physical or

psychological well-being, due to the nature or

conditions of the work. This aspect is key to

understanding the concept of child labour in

cotton, because various activities relating to cotton

cultivation may be deemed hazardous, including

pesticide application and harvesting. Hazardous

work in production can include operation of heavy

machinery, harmful chemicals or sharp equipment.

Convention 182 calls upon ILO member countries

to determine through national legislation the list

of activities that would give rise to hazardous child

labour if performed by a worker under the age

of 18.

The combination of age and activity in dening what

constitutes child labour is summarised below:

Guidance for implementation

Not all work done by children is classied by the ILO

as child labour to be eliminated. Work that does

not affect children’s health and personal development

or schooling can be constructive, such as helping

around the home or on a family farm.

Whether a job is classied as ‘child labour’ depends

on the child’s age and the type and hours of work

performed.

ILO Conventions and national legislation

In reality, there is no clear line separating ‘good’

children’s work from ‘bad’ child labour. It is more

practical to refer to two approaches to dening child

labour, as does the ILO in its Conventions on child

labour: Convention 138 on Minimum Age and

Convention 182 on Worst Forms of Child Labour).

These approaches focus on age and activity,

respectively.

Age: children under a certain age should not work.

ILO Convention 138 sets this at 15 (14 in certain

developing countries), or statutory school-leaving

age, whichever is higher.

Source:

International Labour Organization

The minimum age

at which children

can start work

Possible exceptions for developing

countries (depending on national

minimum age and young worker

legislation)

Hazardous work

Any work that is likely to jeopardise

children’s physical or mental health,

safety or morals should not be done

by anyone under the age of 18.

(16 under strict

conditions)

(16 under strict conditions)

Basic Minimum Age

The minimum age for work should not be

below the age for nishing compulsory

schooling, which is generally 15.

15 14

Light work

In rare situations, children between

the ages of 13 and 15 years may do light

work – such as household chores – as

long as it does not threaten their health

and safety, or hinder their education

or vocational orientation and training.

13 12

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Child

Labour

Decent Work

International best practices also include developing

an internal process for preventing child labour and

remediating any instances of child labour, if and when

identied.

BCI expects Producers to work towards time-bound

plans for the prevention of child labour. Best practice

for prevention includes:

Establishing a written minimum age policy;

Ensuring management staff engaged in recruitment

and recruitment agencies are aware of the policy;

Reviewing workers’ identity documentation (ID)

to conrm that they are minimum age or above

at the time of interview;

Keeping a copy of the worker’s ID in a personnel

le;

Establishing monitoring processes or checks to

ensure the worker’s ID is veried and copies are

maintained by all staff and recruitment agents.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Hazardous work for children can include heavy lifting,

excessive manual labour, long hours, working very

early in the morning or into the evening, and exposure

to dangerous chemicals. All of these must be

avoided.

Intent

‘Hazardous work’ should not be performed by anyone

under 18. ‘Hazardous work’ is work that jeopardises

children’s physical or psychological well-being, due

to the nature or conditions of the work.

The Producer must ensure that for hazardous

work, the minimum age is 18 years.

CRITERION 6.2

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

6.2.1

Hazardous work is not conducted by workers under 18.

✔ ✔ ✔

Work with dangerous machinery, or that involves

manual handling or transport of heavy loads.

Work in an unhealthy environment that may expose

the child to hazardous substances, agents,

processes, temperatures, noise levels or vibrations

which could damage their health.

Work under particularly difcult conditions: long

hours, during the night, or work that does not allow

the possibility of returning home each day.

Policy and process implementation

The policy and process developed and implemented

by each Producer to prevent children working in

hazardous conditions should:

Be simple in language, so that it is understandable

to those who are responsible for implementing it.

Assess the role(s) that children carry out against

the ILO’s guidance (see above) and any relevant

national guidance or legislation.

Re-assess working conditions of children

periodically to account for changing roles or

conditions at the Producer’s farm(s). The

assessment should take into account the views

of the children working at the farm, as well as

their families.

Guidance for implementation

For Guidance on implementation related to the

prevention of child labour, please refer to 6.1.

This section provides guidance related to preventing

young workers from engaging in hazardous work.

ILO Conventions and national legislation

The ILO’s Worst Forms of Child Labour Convention,

1999 (No. 182) includes any work that could damage

the health, safety or well-being of a child, with

reference to the examples of the ‘worst forms’ of child

labour. This Convention permits no exceptions.

It requires signatory countries to take immediate

action to prevent these worst forms of child labour.

The Convention also requires countries to dene in

law the types of work that could damage the safety,

health or well-being of children.

In its Recommendations accompanying Convention

182, the ILO provides the following examples of work

that constitute hazardous work:

Work that exposes children to physical, emotional

or sexual abuse.

Work underground, under water, at dangerous

heights, or in conned spaces.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Child

Labour

Decent Work

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Forced

Labour

Decent Work

Intent

Forced labour has been widely documented across

cotton producing regions. It is a concern in some

countries in the form of debt bondage. There are

also reports of forced child labour in cotton cultivation

in several cotton producing regions.

BCI considers that forced labour is principally rooted

in poverty, inequality and discrimination, and most

often affects vulnerable and unprotected workers.

These often include women, children and young

workers, migrant workers and tribal or ethnic

minorities, who are among the least protected,

and at most risk from forms of coercion that may

be considered as forced labour. The BCI Criterion on

forced labour is therefore closely linked to the Criteria

on child labour and non-discrimination.

The Forced Labour Convention, 1930 (No. 29) is a

fundamental ILO convention that prohibits all forms

of forced or compulsory labour. The convention also

includes ‘prison labour’, where such labour is

extracted by force.

The Producer must ensure there is no forced or

compulsory labour, including bonded or trafcked

labour.

CRITERION 6.3

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

6.3.1

All forms of forced or compulsory, including bonded or trafcked labour,

are prohibited.

✔ ✔ ✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Forced

Labour

Decent Work

Labour migration – particularly the situation of

(irregular) migrant workers, who are often unaware

but also unable to assert their legal labour rights.

Financial and labour market monopolies, which

limit workers’ employment and credit options;

inequitable loan or credit schemes managed by

the employer.

In-kind remuneration, which allows employers

to exacerbate dependent relations and hide low

wages.

Coercion on the part of state authorities.

The most important safeguard for all cotton farm

employers is to fully disclose terms and conditions

of employment prior to workers’ recruitment, and to

ensure that workers understand these terms.

ILO Conventions and national legislation

The ILO has adopted two Conventions on forced

labour: The Forced Labour Convention, 1930 (No. 29),

and the Abolition of Forced Labour Convention,

1957 (No. 105). These two Conventions are among

the most widely ratied of ILO Conventions, and they

are considered as fundamental Conventions.

Convention 29 denes forced or compulsory labour as

‘all work or service, which is exacted from any person

under the menace of any penalty and for which the

said person has not offered himself/herself voluntarily’.

Additionally, forced or compulsory labour performed

by under 18s is considered as one of the worst forms

of child labour, as per Convention 182. Forced labour

is typically considered unlawful under national

legislation.

Guidance for implementation

Forced labour is work exacted under the threat of

penalty and for which the person has not offered

himself or herself voluntarily. In essence, a person

experiences a forced labour situation if they enter

work or service against their freedom of choice, and

cannot leave it without penalty or the threat of penalty.

Forced labour can also include the use of prison

labour where the workers do not have the right to

refuse such work without penalties.

Forced labour is an example of ’modern slavery’,

which encompasses practices such as human

trafcking, debt bondage, forced marriage, slavery,

slavery-like practices (including the dehumanisation

of workers), in addition to forced labour. Legislation

has recently emerged to address modern slavery

in global supply chains, including the UK Modern

Slavery Act (2015) and the California Transparency

in Supply Chains Act (2012).

In situations of modern slavery, workers are exploited

and are often too afraid to escape due to threats,

the risk of violence, coercion, deception or the abuse

of power or penalties. These repercussions can be

extreme, and may include beatings, torture, sexual

assault or threats of physical violence. They can

also involve the withholding of identity documents

or wages, or threats of deportation. Another penalty

may involve imposing debt on workers (for instance,

through large pay advances, recruitment fees or

transportation fees) that is difcult or impossible

to repay on low wages: this is debt bondage, or

bonded labour.

It is also important to consider that restrictions

to workers’ freedom of movement in their

accommodation may result in modern slavery

practices.

The underlying factors that contribute to forced labour

and bonded labour include:

The use of labour agencies with unreasonable

recruitment fees that can be repaid only by

continued work.

Social exclusion, often connected to caste or tribe.

Asymmetric information, whereby illiterate workers

are not aware of their rights and of whom

employers or labour agencies may take

advantage.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Non-

discrimination

Decent Work

Discrimination against indigenous, tribal or migrant

workers is another important issue in the cotton

sector. Migrant workers and members of ethnic

minorities make up a large part of the cotton

cultivation labour force in some regions and often

face discrimination in relation to wages, working

conditions, and health and safety (e.g. performing

more difcult tasks over longer working hours for less

pay). These groups are particularly vulnerable to

discrimination for a number of reasons. They may not

have a strong awareness of their employment rights

and may not even be eligible for the same protection

under national legislation as citizens or permanent

residents. Poverty, lack of prociency in the local

language, and cultural misunderstanding may also

result in prejudice and unfair treatment.

Combating discrimination is an essential part of

promoting Decent Work, and BCI seeks to ensure

equal and respectful treatment in all matters for

all workers engaged in cotton cultivation.

Workers’ right to join associations of their own

choosing is protected by the Freedom of Association

and Protection of the Right to Organise Convention,

1948 (No. 87), which is one of the fundamental ILO

conventions. The Right to Organise and Collective

Bargaining Convention 1949 (No. 98), and Workers’

Representatives Convention, 1971 (No. 135) protect

workers from acts of anti-union discrimination and

anti-worker representative discrimination respectively.

The protection against anti-union discrimination

relates to Criterion 6.4, which prohibits discrimination

on the grounds of group membership or association.

Intent

Freedom from discrimination is widely recognised as

a basic human right. Discrimination at work is harmful

to both employers and employees. It prevents workers

from making their fullest possible contribution to the

workplace and impedes the creation of a harmonious,

motivating and productive working environment.

More broadly, employment discrimination gives

rise to socio-economic inequalities that undermine

social cohesion and solidarity, and impede poverty

reduction efforts. Given its fundamental importance,

the BCI Criterion on non-discrimination applies to all

farms, large and small. BCI also considers the

principle of non-discrimination key outside the

employment sphere, for instance, in the establishment

and operation of Producer groups.

Gender discrimination remains one of the greatest

challenges to workplace equality in the cotton sector,

partly as a result of pre-existing social attitudes and

beliefs about gender roles.

Women are frequently paid less than their male

counterparts, despite the crucial role they play in

the labour force. Rural women in many smallholder

contexts provide substantial labour input to the

cotton cultivation cycle as ‘unpaid’ family labour or

low-paid day labourers.

Women commonly perform some of the most

arduous tasks, with over-representation in manual

work such as picking and weeding.

Women face a greater risk of harassment,

including sexual harassment.

Women are less likely to be considered

for promotions, benets and opportunities

to represent workers.

Women workers may face signicant difculties

in gaining access to credit, and their views may

be overlooked in decision-making as a result

of entrenched gender bias in farming families.

The Producer must not practise discrimination

(distinction, exclusion or preference) that denies

or impairs equality of opportunity, conditions or

treatment based on individual characteristics,

group membership or association.

CRITERION 6.4

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Non-

discrimination

Decent Work

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.4.1

All forms of discrimination are prohibited.

6.4.2

A system is in place to detect and remediate any incident of discrimination on

the basis of age, gender, ethnicity, nationality, social origin, religion, membership

of a trade union or other workers’ organisation, or any other characteristics that

are not related to merit or the inherent requirements of the job.

6.4.3

The Producer Unit has a time-bound plan to improve the position

of disadvantaged groups.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.4.4

A written code of conduct or non-discrimination policy is communicated

to farmers/workers/employees.

6.4.5

Specic outreach to women farmers and workers is conducted by women

facilitators.

6.4.6

Equal access to training is given to women workers.

✔

✔ ✔ ✔

✔ ✔

✔

Effective worker dialogue, including worker

representation and grievance mechanisms (see

Criteria 6.5 and 6.8), is crucial to providing awareness

and insight to the Producer. A grievance mechanism

is a formal process that allows any worker to raise

concerns with their employer, and for such concerns

to be impartially investigated.

Gender-based discrimination exemplies this, as

across cultures, decision-makers (who tend to be

men) have limited awareness and understanding

of the needs and experiences of women workers.

This ‘gender blindness’ (or unconscious bias) means

that even in instances where there is no intentional

discrimination, decision-makers may perpetuate

gender-related norms and values that discriminate

against women.

Guidance for implementation

Discrimination in employment means treating workers

differently and less favourably because of

characteristics that are not related to their merit

or the inherent requirements of the job. Common

grounds for discrimination include – but are not

limited to – gender, race, age, ethnicity, religious

belief, disability, sexual orientation, marital status,

family responsibilities, trade union membership

or HIV/AIDS status. Distinctions based on the inherent

requirements of a job are not be deemed to be

discrimination. Non-discrimination measures should

apply to all workers.

Discrimination can take place at many different

stages of a working relationship: hiring, on the job

(e.g. allocation of work, remuneration, discipline,

access to training or promotion, working conditions)

and at the end of the relationship (dismissal). It can

include intimidation, harassment (including sexual

harassment) or bullying.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Non-

discrimination

Decent Work

The Discrimination (Employment and Occupation)

Convention, 1958 (No. 111) provides a basic denition

of the concept of discrimination as ‘any distinction,

exclusion or preference made on the basis of race,

colour, sex, religion, political opinion, national

extraction or social origin, which has the effect of

nullifying or impairing equality of opportunity or

treatment in employment or occupation’. ‘Employment

or occupation’ includes access to vocational training,

access to employment and to particular occupations,

and terms and conditions of employment.

Workplace discrimination is generally prohibited by

national legislation, although the prohibited grounds

and extent of protection differ between countries.

Producers can promote equality and prevent

discrimination through:

New policies and practices, or improving existing

ones

Training for managers, supervisors and recruiters

Awareness-raising activities (for example,

on rights and workplace policies) for workers

Supporting anonymous grievance mechanisms.

ILO Conventions and national legislation

Among the ILO’s eight fundamental conventions,

two are related to equality of opportunity and

treatment. The Equal Remuneration Convention,

1951 (No. 100), enshrines the principle of equal

remuneration for men and women workers for work

of equal value. The term ‘remuneration’ is broadly

dened to include the ordinary, basic or minimum

wage or salary and any additional benets payable

directly or indirectly, whether in cash or in kind,

by the employer to the worker and arising out of the

worker’s employment. The term ‘equal remuneration

for men and women workers for work of equal value’

refers to rates of remuneration established without

gender discrimination.

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Non-

discrimination

Decent Work

The right to equal pay for equal work has strong

links with the right not to be discriminated against

(see Criterion 6.4).

Achieving pay equality (equal pay for equal work)

helps combat harmful stereotypes about the type of

work for which particular gender, ethnicities or

nationality groups are suited. It also prevents workers

of disadvantaged groups from falling into poverty,

and decreases the likelihood that disadvantaged

groups use child labour as a means of supplementing

their income. Additionally, treating workers fairly helps

to improve motivation and productivity, and helps

businesses retain good workers.

Intent

As a result of socially constructed norms and values,

different groups of workers receive different pay for

performing the same work.

One of the most commonly cited examples of unequal

pay is the pay gap between men and women. The

Equal Remuneration Convention, 1951 (No. 100)

(C100) interprets the principle of equal pay for equal

work largely as an issue relating to the gender pay

gap between men and women workers. However,

pay gaps affect other groups of workers too, such

as workers of different nationalities or ethnicities.

For example, this might include migrant workers

who are paid less than local workers for the same job.

As such, BCI requires all Producers to ensure equal

pay for all groups of people.

Given the prevalence of discrimination in pay

between groups of different nationalities, religions

and ethnicities, Producers must ensure that all

workers receive equal pay for equal work, regardless

of age, gender, ethnicity, nationality, social origin

(including caste) or religious beliefs.

The Producer must observe the principle

of equal pay for equal work.

CRITERION 6.5

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.5.1

Equal wages are paid to workers who perform the same job, irrespective

of gender.

6.5.2

There is no evidence of any policy, practice or customary rule that results

in the payment of unequal wages on the basis of gender to workers who

perform the same job.

✔ ✔

✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Non-

discrimination

Decent Work

The rst step in respecting the right to equal pay for

equal work is to ensure that pay is not set for specic

types of workers, such as males. Instead, Producers

should set pay according to skill, merit, experience

or the inherent requirements of the job.

Producers should implement processes to actively

identify and address pay inequalities in their

workforce. For example, Producers can provide

training to managers to prevent discrimination in pay.

Producers can also identify roles that have equal

value and review pay scales for the workers

performing such jobs.

Producers should also ensure that workers have

access to a grievance mechanism through which they

can raise their concerns related to pay discrimination

and have the employer look into the matter.

Guidance for implementation

The principle of equal pay for equal work means that

workers regardless of gender receive the same pay

for performing work that is the same or of comparable

value.

In the context of cotton production, this means that

workers have a right to equal pay for equal work

regardless their gender and whether or not their jobs

are exactly the same. Determining whether jobs are

of comparable value can be complex, but generally

include factors such as effort, skills and decision-

making. For instance, the ILO indicates that caterers

and cleaners (jobs generally performed by women)

are comparable in value to gardeners and drivers

(jobs generally performed by men).

‘Pay’ should be understood as a broad concept

that includes all payments (including piece rate,

basic wage, overtime and bonuses), allowances,

leave entitlements and non-monetary benets

(like accommodation and food).

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

Access to safe water is particularly important for

cotton workers, who by the nature of their work, are

at risk of heat stress, heat exhaustion, fainting and

heat cramps. These conditions can cause more

severe health issues such as chronic kidney disease.

Considering that workers in rural areas may lack

accessible, hygienic water and sanitation facilities,

it is crucial that businesses provide these facilities.

Intent

The UN (General Assembly Resolution 64/292) has

recognised that access to water is a human right

essential to the realisation of other rights. Access to

safe water is also safeguarded by the Occupational

Safety and Health Recommendation, 1981 (164).

However, lack of access to safe water is still a

common problem for rural workers. It has a signicant

impact on workers’ health and wellbeing, in the form

of water-related diseases and dehydration.

The Producer must provide access to safe

and hygienic sanitation facilities and to potable

and washing water.

CRITERION 6.6

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.6.1

Potable and washing water facilities are placed within reasonable proximity

to the workplace and accessible to all.

6.6.2

All workers have access to adequate sanitation facilities.

✔ ✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Sanitation facilities

Producers should provide workers with sanitation

facilities that are:

Accessible: Producers must not restrict workers’

access to toilets and sanitation facilities, and the

facilities should be within reach of workers’ place

of work.

Safe: Producers should minimise health and safety

risks of slips, trips and falls by building sanitation

facilities with durable, high quality materials and

ensuring the facilities are kept clean.

Hygienic: Producers should ensure that the

facilities are kept clean to prevent the spread of

disease; this includes providing workers with clean

water, soap and a hand-drying facility.

Private: male and female toilets should be

separate and should have partitions and doors, so

as to provide workers with adequate privacy.

Sufcient: the number of toilets and hand-washing

facilities should be proportionate to the size of the

workforce. As an approximate gure, the ratio

should be at least one toilet and hand-washing

facility for every 50 workers.

Guidance for implementation

Potable and washing water

Producers must ensure there is water for drinking and

washing purposes. In both cases, the water must be:

Safe – suitably clean for either drinking or washing.

It may be necessary to have two different sources

of water as the required level of safety is not the

same. For water to be potable, it must be ltered

either naturally (e.g. ground water from well) or

through an articial device, such as a water lter.

Accessible – the source of water should be close

and easy enough to reach so that, in the case of

drinking water, regular intake can be ensured.

Workers’ access to water must not be restricted.

Sufcient – there should be enough for each

worker.

Reliable – the supply of water is regular and is

not overly dependent on external factors, such as

weather.

To achieve all of this, the Producer should carry out

regular water quality checks.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

Adequate access to medical care helps with the early

identication of medical conditions, which reduces

the likelihood of more serious conditions developing,

potentially saving lives. Likewise, medical care must

be accessible, should there be a serious accident

at work. The Safety and Health in Agriculture

Convention, 2001 (184) indicates that workers must

be provided with adequate welfare facilities, free

of charge.

Intent

Access to rest areas and eating facilities and medical

care are important to ensure that workers keep

healthy and safe while at work. This has positive

benets for workers at their workplace and at home,

and benets Producers by supporting a healthy and

productive workforce.

Considering that workers in rural areas may lack

access to medical care in their homes, it is crucial

that businesses provide these facilities.

The Producer must provide all workers with

a clean place to eat and access to adequate

medical care.

CRITERION 6.7

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.7.1

All workers have access to adequate rest areas / food consumption facilities.

6.7.2

Proportion of farms who provide workers access to regular medical

examinations.

6.7.3

All workers have access to adequate medical care facilities or farm provides

or subsidizes health insurance above any compulsory state provisions.

✔ ✔

✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Medical care

Producers should provide workers with medical care

that is:

Free of cost: workers should not be required to

pay to access medical care. Where insurance is

required for workers to be able to access medicine

and treatment, Producers should provide workers

with – or help access – the necessary insurance.

Accessible: workers should be able to access

medical care by their own means, and where this

is not possible, the Producer should provide

workers with suitable transportation, free of

charge. Workers should be able to access medical

care without undue delays (See Criterion 6.10 for

further guidance).

Qualied: where medical care is provided by

the Producer, the Producer should ensure the

personnel providing the service are qualied

and trained to do so.

The Producer should inform workers on the

importance of good hygiene practices (relating

to hand-washing, use of toilets and consumption of

food), and include instructions on hygiene in their

training prior to starting work.

Guidance for implementation

Rest areas / Places to eat

Producers should provide workers with food

consumption facilities that are:

Accessible: within reach of workers’ place of work,

or where this is not possible, the Producer should

provide workers with adequate transportation.

Sufcient: the facility should have adequate space

and number of chairs or benches for the number

of workers at the site; in hot climates it should

provide sufcient shade.

Hygienic: the facility should be kept to a good

standard of cleanliness to prevent the spread of

disease and safety hazards such as slips, trips

and falls. Where Producers provide workers with

food, the Producers should ensure that any

provision of food is prepared in hygienic

conditions by adequately trained personnel.

Good quality: where Producers provide food to

workers, they should ensure that the food has

sufcient nutritional value to meet workers’ caloric

needs.

Affordable: where Producers provide food to

workers and charge workers for it, Producers

should ensure the price of the food is reasonable,

taking into account workers’ wages, and must not

sell the food for a prot.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

Farm and processing machinery can also present

a signicant hazard to life and limb. Workers who

operate machinery and equipment must receive

adequate training.

In attributing employer responsibilities for worker

health and safety, BCI has sought to balance the

capacity of diverse cotton farms to meet the standard

without compromising the well-being of workers.

Training enables workers to work more safely in the

context of the hazards with which they are presented.

The appropriate level of training to be made available

to employees of smallholders, medium farms and

large farms will depend largely on the context, and

is most likely to be provided as part of an IPM

Programme, described under the Crop Protection

Principle above. In the case of certain key hazardous

tasks, including spraying, working with hazardous

chemicals, substances and materials, and other

potentially hazardous tasks such as operating

vehicles and other machinery, good practice dictates

that workers’ participation in training is formally

recorded and regularly reviewed.

Intent

Most work-related accidents and illness are

preventable. Given the nature of activities in the

cotton cultivation cycle, worker and farmer health

and safety is a critical issue in cotton farming. It is

also vital to the livelihoods of workers and smallholder

farmers, since there is no clear distinction between

working and living conditions on smallholder farms

(unlike in factory or ofce settings). Moreover, it

should be noted that investments in health and safety

improvements can help to reduce absenteeism due

to illness or accidents, and improve productivity.

The key risks for worker health and safety are that

workers – whether family members or hired,

depending on the regional context – are exposed

to harmful toxins. This has serious implications for

women farmers and workers, in particular, in terms

of the impact of pesticides on women’s reproductive

health. Moreover, children who work on farms – and

particularly on family farms – are especially vulnerable

to unsafe and unhealthy working practices, resulting

in injuries such as cuts and wounds, eye infections,

skin problems, and fever and headaches caused

by exposure to pesticides.

The Producer should provide workers with regular

health and safety training appropriate to the work

they perform.

CRITERION 6.8

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.8.1

Proportion of farms with a health and safety policy available

and communicated to workers.

6.8.2

A written occupational health and safety policy is available at the farm

and has been communicated to workers.

6.8.3

A formal staff induction and training programme for new employees that

covers all relevant workplace health and safety requirements is conducted.

✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Providing health & safety training in cotton farms

The health and safety training provided to workers

should:

Cover the main occupational safety hazards

at the farm, for example:

Chemical use: such as the use of pesticides

and the safe picking of cotton after pesticides

have been applied to the crop;

Musculoskeletal injuries: repetitive movements,

positional injuries, handling of heavy loads;

Skin: irritation caused by handling rough materials;

Vehicles and equipment: injuries caused by

moving machinery;

Water: risk of drowning in irrigation canals;

Heat: high level of sun exposure, dehydration.

Be provided to workers at the beginning

of their work, and also at adequate intervals

as a refresher;

Be delivered in a language or means in which

the workers understand;

Be documented.

Guidance for implementation

ILO Conventions and national legislation

BCI follows ILO Convention 155, which aims ‘to

prevent accidents and injury to health arising out

of, linked with or occurring in the course of work,

by minimising, so far as is reasonably practicable,

the causes of hazards inherent in the working

environment’.

The other key international reference points for labour

standards in this area are the Safety and Health in

Agriculture Convention 2001 (No.184), and the

Plantations Convention, 1958 (No. 110). In particular,

Convention 184 covers preventive and protective

measures regarding machinery safety, handling and

transport of materials, chemical management, animal

handling, and the construction and maintenance of

agricultural facilities. Other provisions address the

specic needs of young workers, temporary and

seasonal workers, and of women workers before and

after childbirth.

National legislation typically establishes minimum

standards for policies and practices on health and

safety in agriculture that apply to the cotton sector,

although this is not the case in all cotton producing

countries. Where national legal requirements on

occupational health and safety are more

comprehensive than the above Criteria, as is the case

in many producer states, these statutory standards

must be met

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

The ILO’s Occupational Safety and Health Convention,

1981 (No. 155) aims ‘to prevent accidents and injury

to health arising out of, linked with or occurring in the

course of work, by minimising, so far as is reasonably

practicable, the causes of hazards inherent in the

working environment’.

The ILO’s Safety and Health in Agriculture Convention,

2001 (No. 184) sets out the duty of employers

(Producers) to ensure the safety and health of workers

‘in every aspect related to work’. The ILO’s Safety and

Health in Agriculture Code of Practice (2010) provides

detailed guidance and recommendations on the

various aspects related to workplace health and

safety.

Intent

Producers (employers) have a duty of care to their

employees and must ensure that their workplaces,

processes, tools are safe and healthy. Producers

must take steps to identify, prioritise and address

health and safety hazards to ensure that both the

workplace and workers are safe. Medium and large

Producers are expected to conduct regular, formal

risk assessments of health and safety issues to

identify risk areas and potential hazards.

The intent of this requirement is to protect the safety

and wellbeing of workers. Work accidents can cause

loss of income for workers and intense suffering,

affecting not only the worker themselves but also their

family. Work accidents can also cause damages and

nancial loss to the Producer.

The Producer should identify work hazards,

inform workers of safe work practices, and adopt

preventive measures to minimise hazards in the

workplace.

The Producer must maintain records of any

accidents and occupational illnesses.

CRITERION 6.9

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.9.1

Proportion of farms that have conducted a formal assessment of all potential

workplace hazards, leading to safe work procedures being established for

all hazards.

6.9.2

A formal assessment of all potential workplace hazards, involving workers,

has been conducted, and has led to the establishment of safe work practice

procedures for all hazards.

6.9.3

Records of any accidents and occupational illnesses are maintained.

✔

✔ ✔

✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

4. Training

Producers should provide adequate training to

workers to ensure they are capable of following the

processes and using the tools safely.

5. Communication

Producers should clearly communicate to workers

and supervisors:

i. The hazards associated with their jobs and the

measures in place to eliminate or reduce them;

ii. Their right to remove themselves from dangerous

situations;

iii. Their right to report health and safety hazards

or concerns without fear of retaliation. This can

be linked to grievance mechanisms, providing

workers with avenues to report concerns other

than speaking to their direct supervisor. Producers

should also provide feedback to workers on the

actions taken to resolve such concerns.

6. Documentation

Producers should keep clear, accurate records of:

i. Hazards identied and measures put in place;

ii. Training provided to workers;

iii. Health and safety concerns reported by workers

and actions taken to address them;

iv. All accidents, injuries or near misses, including

the root cause and steps taken to prevent it from

recurring in the future.

Guidance for implementation

The fundamental steps to promote a safe and healthy

workplace are:

1. Hazard identication

What are the main risks faced by workers from the

jobs, the plant and the tools they use? Particular

attention should be paid to identify hazards that may

be more harmful or likely to affect vulnerable groups

of workers, such as pregnant and nursing women,

unskilled labourers, young workers or workers

suffering from injury or illness. In many countries,

Producers must assess specic working conditions

for any worker who is pregnant.

2. Risk assessment

How likely is it that the hazards will materialise?

Producers should look at every procedure and

identify:

i. Acute danger of death such as electricity and

severe chemical burns;

ii. Chronic danger of death such as through

exposure to chemicals;

iii. Permanent disablement such as falls or accidents

with tractors, machinery and moving equipment

that can cause loss of limb or loss of senses

(hearing);

iv. Temporary disablement such as strenuous

physical efforts, especially where jobs are planned

for male workers but assigned to female or young

workers, or manual work in high temperatures;

v. ‘Lost time’ accidents such as slips, trips, falls,

or issues related to weather factors such as heat

stroke and dehydration.

3. Action planning

Producers should always prioritise eliminating

the hazard immediately. The items below refer to

the steps that Producers should take to approach

hazards, starting with eliminating the hazard.

The provision of PPE should be the last resort,

rather than the rst measure to be considered.

i. Eliminate the hazard;

ii. Reduce exposure;

iii. Enclose the hazard;

iv. Mechanise the process;

v. Provide PPE.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

The ILO’s Safety and Health in Agriculture Convention,

2001 (No. 184) sets out the duty of employers

(Producers) to ensure the safety and health of workers

‘in every aspect related to work’. In particular,

Convention 184 covers preventive and protective

measures regarding machinery safety, handling and

transport of materials, chemical management, animal

handling, and the construction and maintenance

of agricultural facilities. Other provisions address

the specic needs of young workers, temporary and

seasonal workers, and of women workers before

and after childbirth.

The ILO’s Safety and Health in Agriculture Code of

Practice (2010) provides detailed guidance and

recommendations on the various aspects related to

workplace health and safety. Another key international

reference point for labour standards in this area is the

Plantations Convention, 1958 (No. 110).

National legislation typically establishes minimum

standards for policies and practices on health and

safety in agriculture that applies to the cotton sector,

although this is not the case in all cotton producing

countries.

Intent

The BCI Decent Work Principle also includes a

requirement for medium and large farms to train a

reasonable number of workers (in relation to the size

of the operation) in rst aid. Suitably stocked rst aid

boxes should also be readily accessible at all times

and kept in date, and transportation to medical

facilities should be made available. The intent of

this criterion is to protect workers’ health and safety

in the workplace, and to ensure that Producers have

processes in place to manage workplace accidents

and emergencies.

The Occupational Safety and Health Convention,

1981 (No. 155) aims ‘to prevent accidents and injury

to health arising out of, linked with or occurring in the

course of work, by minimising, so far as is reasonably

practicable, the causes of hazards inherent in the

working environment’.

The Producer should ensure that measures are

in place to deal with accidents and emergencies,

including rst aid, trained rst aiders and access

to appropriate transportation to medical facilities.

CRITERION 6.10

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.10.1

Proportion of farms with accident and emergency procedures including

irst aid kits and access to appropriate transportation to medical facilities.

6.10.2

An accident and emergency procedure, including rst aid kits,

and access to appropriate transportation to medical facilities, is in place.

6.10.3

Trained and qualied rst aiders are present on on the farm.

✔

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

4. Training

Producers should provide adequate training to

workers to ensure they are capable of following the

processes and using the tools safely.

5. Communication

Producers should clearly communicate to workers

and supervisors:

i. The hazards associated with their jobs and the

measures in place to eliminate or reduce them;

ii. Their right to remove themselves from dangerous

situations;

iii. Their right to report health and safety hazards

or concerns without fear of retaliation. This can

be linked to grievance mechanisms, providing

workers with avenues to report concerns other

than speaking to their direct supervisor. Producers

should also provide feedback to workers on the

actions taken to resolve such concerns.

6. Documentation

Producers should keep clear, accurate records of:

i. Hazards identied and measures put in place;

ii. Training provided to workers;

iii. Health and safety concerns reported by workers

and actions taken to address them;

iv. All accidents, injuries or near misses, including

the root cause and steps taken to prevent it from

recurring in the future.

Guidance for implementation

The fundamental steps to promote a safe and healthy

workplace are:

1. Hazard identication

What are the main risks faced by workers from the

jobs, the plant and the tools they use? Particular

attention should be paid to identify hazards that may

be more harmful or likely to affect vulnerable groups

of workers, such as pregnant and nursing women,

unskilled labourers, young workers or workers

suffering from injury or illness. In many countries,

Producers must assess specic working conditions

for any worker who is pregnant.

2. Risk assessment

How likely is it that the hazards will materialise?

Producers should look at every procedure and

identify:

i. Acute danger of death such as electricity and

severe chemical burns;

ii. Chronic danger of death such as through

exposure to chemicals;

iii. Permanent disablement such as falls or accidents

with tractors, machinery and moving equipment

that can cause loss of limb or loss of senses

(hearing);

iv. Temporary disablement such as strenuous

physical efforts, especially where jobs are planned

for male workers but assigned to female or young

workers, or manual work in high temperatures;

v. ‘Lost time’ accidents such as slips, trips, falls,

or issues related to weather factors such as heat

stroke and dehydration.

3. Action planning

Producers should always prioritise eliminating

the hazard immediately. The items below refer to

the steps that Producers should take to approach

hazards, starting with eliminating the hazard.

The provision of PPE should be the last resort,

rather than the rst measure to be considered.

i. Eliminate the hazard;

ii. Reduce exposure;

iii. Enclose the hazard;

iv. Mechanise the process;

v. Provide PPE.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Health

and Safety

Decent Work

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

the best means for achieving this. The recognition

of a workers’ organisation for the purposes of

representation and negotiation would typically take

the form of the employer recognising in writing –

and in practice – the right of all workers to establish

and join workers’ organisations of their own choosing,

and to collectively negotiate their working conditions.

Workers’ rights to establish and join associations

of their own choosing are protected by the Freedom

of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise

Convention, 1948 (No. 87), which is one of the

fundamental ILO conventions. In the cotton producer

context, the Rural Workers’ Organisation Convention,

1975 (No. 141) protects the rights to freedom of

association for workers in rural settings, including

wage earners and self-employed workers. The right

to collective bargaining is protected by the Right

to Organise and Collective Bargaining Convention,

1949 (No. 98) and the Collective Bargaining

Convention, 1981 (No. 154).

Producers should be aware that not all workers will

feel able to join and participate in representative

bodies due to social norms and values. This can

be related to factors such as ethnicity, age or sex.

For representative bodies to be effective in protecting

workers’ interests and serving as a grievance

mechanism, it is important that they are representative

of the workforce, meaning that all major demographic

groups (including women) should play an active part.

Intent

BCI recognises the fundamental importance of

the right to freedom of association as a means of

representing and defending workers’ interests, and

considers this right to enable the effective realisation

of other labour rights. In particular, freedom of

association paves the way for improvements in social

and labour conditions, for example through collective

bargaining.

The process of collective bargaining aims to reach

mutually acceptable agreements on issues including

wages, contracts of employment, hours of work,

leave, and occupational health and safety. The ability

for workers to bargain collectively with their employers

is a major factor inuencing workers’ terms and

conditions of employment.

Within the global cotton context, however, these

rights take on different inections, given that in many

production countries in the developing world, cotton

work is performed by smallholders who are neither

exclusively ‘employers’ or ‘employees’.

In the context of family smallholdings, where the

majority of labour inputs derive from family members,

‘organisation’ logically relates in the rst instance

to Producer’s organisation. The term ‘workers’

organisation’, as used in the Decent Work Principle,

refers to any organisation of workers with the aim

of furthering and defending the rights and interests

of workers. BCI considers independent trade unions

The Producer must guarantee all workers the

right to establish and join organisations of

their own choosing, and to draw up their own

constitutions and rules, elect representatives,

formulate programmes, and bargain collectively.

CRITERION 6.11

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.11.1

Workers have the right to establish or join organisations of their own choosing.

6.11.2

There is no interference with the establishment and growth of workers’

organisations or their activities.

6.11.3

There is no interference with the right of workers to bargain collectively.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.11.4

Proportion of farms with workers who are members of a trade union

or other form of worker representation organisation.

6.11.5

Proportion of employees who are members of a Trade Union

or other form of worker representation organisation.

6.11.6

Frequency at which the Producer or a senior staff member meets

with employees.

✔

Preventing workers from physically meeting;

Denying worker representatives the ability

to meet with other workers;

Preventing workers from electing representatives;

Interfering with worker organisation meetings;

Establishing parallel unions, controlled by

the employer, that workers are compelled to join;

Preventing workers from freely electing their

representatives.

Producers must also ensure that they do not

discriminate against worker representatives or

workers who are members of workers’ associations.

Examples of discrimination are:

Requiring workers not to join a workers’

association;

Requiring workers to give up membership

of a workers’ association;

Dismissal of workers for their membership

of or activities conducted as part of a workers’

association.

Guidance for implementation

Freedom of association

Freedom of association refers to the right of workers

and employers to freely form or join organisations that

promote and defend their interests at work, without

interference. The right to organise applies to all

workers and employers, including persons in the

informal economy.

As a fundamental labour right, freedom of association

enables workers to shape their working conditions

through social dialogue. In implementing this criterion,

Producers should aim to establish robust and

effective channels for communication and dialogue.

In countries where the local law allows the operation

of workers’ associations, Producers must ensure that

they do not interfere with or hinder workers’ right to

organise. Examples of interference with this right are:

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

The right applies to all workers without exception, and

covers all aspects of working conditions. A common

area for collective bargaining is in setting workers’

wages and benets.

Collective bargaining is conducted by an organised

group of workers whose existence is formalised,

for example, in the form of a union. For this reason,

the right to freedom of association underpins the right

to collective bargaining.

In essence, collective bargaining is a negotiation

process that must be underpinned by good faith.

The collective bargaining process involves a joint

decision-making exercise between workers and

employers to arrive at a collective agreement.

For the process to be successful, workers’ and

employers’ organisations must recognise each other.

This can be through statutory terms (as per local laws)

or voluntarily through a recognition agreement signed

by both parties. Therefore, there is a distinction

between a workers’ association which represents

its members in the resolution of grievances, and

a workers’ association which represents workers

for the purpose of collective bargaining.

The ILO states that to be effective, collective

agreements must bind the signatories and those

on whose behalf they are conducted, and apply

to all workers of the classes with which the agreement

is concerned. They must also take precedence over

individual contracts of employment, while recognising

conditions in individual contracts that are more

favourable to workers.

In countries where the local law prohibits the

operation of workers’ associations, Producers

should provide and must not interfere with alternative

means for worker representation. While respecting

the local law, these alternative means of worker

representation should allow workers to have an

effective dialogue mechanism with their employers.

This should include allowing workers to:

Elect their representatives;

Hold meetings;

Engage with the workforce;

Engage with their employers to discuss matters

of concern.

In these cases, Producers must provide the same

level of protection (non-interference and non-

discrimination) as discussed above.

Producers or worker associations should ensure

all workers feel represented. This requires an

awareness of where the structural disadvantages are.

In most cases, a priority area to address is gender

representation, since women tend to have fewer

opportunities to participate effectively in

representative bodies or training opportunities.

Collective bargaining

Collective bargaining is a voluntary process through

which employers (or their organisations), and trade

unions (or in their absence, workers’ representatives)

discuss and negotiate their relations and interaction

in the workplace. This process of bargaining aims

to reach mutually acceptable agreements on issues

including wages, contracts of employment, hours

of work, leave and occupational health and safety.

The ability for workers to bargain collectively with their

employers is a major factor inuencing workers’ terms

and conditions of employment.

The right to collective bargaining means allows

workers’ organisations to freely negotiate their working

conditions with their employer. The right extends

to all negotiations between workers and employers

for the purpose of determining working conditions,

and regulating the relations between employers and

workers.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

100

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

Intent

It is important that Producers (employers) allow

trade unions not based at the farm to meet and share

information with the workforce at an agreed time and

place, without the interference of farm management.

Producers should not express personal opinions

about worker representation, in order not to make

workers feel vulnerable, should they join such

organisations.

The Producer should provide representatives

from trade unions or other workers’ organisations

with access to reasonable facilities.

CRITERION 6.12

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.12.1

Proportion of farms providing access to reasonable space for workers’

representatives.

6.12.2

Reasonable facilities are available to Union or worker representatives

when they visit the farm.

✔

promptly and effectively. In a farm context, this

may mean: access to a sheltered area, a reasonable

amount of time for representatives and workers

to meet, and the non-interference of management

in meetings.

Guidance for implementation

It is important that workers’ representatives are able

to carry out their duties unobstructed. The ILO’s

Workers’ Representatives Convention, 1971 (No. 135)

states that worker representatives shall be provided

with facilities appropriate to carry out their functions

101

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

certain categories of workers that are common in

agriculture may be excluded from minimum wage

protection, such as casual, piece rate and seasonal

workers. Piece rates are wage payments on the

basis of a xed rate according to units or actions

completed, such as a certain amount of cotton

picked, rather than on the basis of time worked.

Regional wage norms may exceed the legal minimum

wage, particularly where minimum wage rates are low

and insufcient to meet basic needs. In such cases,

workers should be paid whichever rate is higher.

Where workers rely on piece rates, it is important that

this rate permits them to earn at least the minimum

wage or regional norm.

Wages should be paid regularly and on time using an

appropriate method of payment. In extreme situations,

debt bondage or forced labour can arise where

wages are not paid for long periods of time. This

can also be a problem if a large component of wages

consists of in-kind payment rather than cash, as it

reduces workers’ discretionary income and their

freedom to decide on how to meet their own needs.

Consequently, the provision of in-kind payment is

often strictly regulated by national legislation or

collective agreement, and restricted to a percentage

of the overall wage.

It is also important to ensure that Producers are

transparent about how wages are calculated and

that wages are paid based on a system that applies

to all workers (see Criterion 6.7 on equal pay for equal

work). This reduces the likelihood of (perceived)

favouritism.

Intent

Due to the importance of wage employment in cotton

cultivation and its relation to poverty, the issue of

employment conditions is central to the promotion

of decent work. The Criteria under employment

conditions are applicable to medium and large farms,

but not to smallholders.

Terms and conditions of employment vary

tremendously across the agricultural waged

workforce. Working terms and conditions in the cotton

sector are inuenced by a range of factors, such as

the type of working arrangement (e.g. permanent,

casual, seasonal, migrant, piece rate), the nature of

the job and the employer’s geographic location and

size. The extent to which national labour law regulates

working conditions varies according to the level of

development and local living standards in each

country.

In general, wages in the agricultural sector are low

and many agricultural workers live below the poverty

line. Wages may be affected by conditions beyond

the workers’ control, such as adverse weather

conditions, which may lead to workers not being

paid for unproductive time. Many workers may need

to work long hours to earn a basic wage, especially

where they rely on piece rates. To protect these

workers, national labour legislation and collective

agreement may establish a minimum wage, a

minimum monetary rate that employers may pay

employees for their labour. It is often expressed as

an hourly rate and may vary across sectors or

regions. However, the agricultural sector is often

exempted from the requirement to pay a minimum

wage, or may be subject to a lower rate. Alternatively,

The Producer must ensure that all workers –

waged and piece rate – are paid wages at

least equivalent to the applicable legal national

minimum wage or regional norm, whichever

is higher; and that workers are paid regularly,

on time, and through an appropriate method

of payment.

CRITERION 6.13

102

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.13.1

Farmers in the PU are aware of the legally applicable minimum wage/s

(statutory national or regional minimum wage applicable to agriculture, collectively

agreed wage, industry minimum).

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.13.2

The wage rate paid to workers by the Producer is equal to or higher

than the applicable minimum wage.

6.13.3

Employees are paid more than 15% higher than the applicable minimum wage.

6.13.4

Piece rate or wages adequate for workers to earn the applicable national

minimum wage or regional norm (whichever is higher) are provided during

normal working hours and under normal operating conditions.

6.13.5

Wage records show that workers are paid regularly and on time through

an appropriate method of payment.

✔ ✔

✔

✔ ✔✔

103

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

or monthly basis, piece rates, bonuses and in-kind

payments, such as food and housing.

Many factors can impact a worker’s ability to earn

a minimum wage. Producers should incorporate

the following general principles:

weekly rest (Convention 14 and Convention 106).

In terms of wages, Convention 99 requires states to

establish minimum wages for the agricultural sector;

the Equal Remuneration Convention, 1951 (No. 100)

lays down the principle of equal remuneration for

men and women workers for work of equal value

(see ‘Discrimination’ above). The Plantations

Convention, 1958 (No. 110) deals with conditions

of employment of plantation workers. It covers

conditions of work, contracts of employment,

collective bargaining, methods of wage payment,

paid leave, weekly rest, maternity protection,

accident compensation, freedom of association,

labour inspection, housing and medical care.

It also covers the recruitment and engagement

of migrant workers.

Guidance for implementation

Wages are undoubtedly among the most important

concerns for workers, with a critical link to the living

standards of workers and their families. The term

‘wages’ refers to the total remuneration paid to

workers for their labour, including monetary

compensation provided on an hourly, daily, weekly

BCI does not consider it appropriate to determine

‘cash standards’ for cotton production, such as

wages and working hours. Collective and individual

agreement establishes these in national legislation,

collective bargaining agreements and individual

contracts of employment. BCI requires producer-

employers to comply with national employment

legislation and that national legislation prevails

where it sets higher standards on particular issues

than the BCI Criteria.

A number of ILO Conventions set standards relating

to working conditions; these are directed towards

legislating governments. Agricultural workers are not

covered by the two principal conventions on hours

of work (ILO Convention 1 and Convention 30) or

Amount

Producers must provide a sufcient amount of the pay package in monetary form,

so as to meet or exceed the minimum wage.

Piece rate

Piece rates are wage payments on the basis of a xed rate according to units

or actions completed, such as a certain amount of cotton picked, rather than on

the basis of time worked. Where workers earn a piece rate, Producers should show

workers how to track their own amounts and compare against payments.

Payments

Payments must be made on time and using an appropriate method of payment,

directly to the worker. Calculations must be clearly understood by workers and

any disputes about the amount of payments must be investigated and addressed

in a timely manner.

Deductions

Producers may make deductions from workers’ pay to cover the cost of

accommodation, loan payments or other benets. Workers must agree to these

deductions and amounts in advance. Workers must be able to easily opt out of the

deductions. Additionally, the deductions should not be so great that wage payments

do not provide sufcient money to cover workers’ basic needs.

104

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

Regardless of the form of agreement, any changes

to an employee’s working conditions (such as working

hours) represent a change to this agreement and

should therefore be made with the prior consent of

the employee.

In many cotton producing regions, Producers may

rely on recruitment agencies or labour contractors

to hire and manage workers. In cases where

the recruitment and/or management of labour is

outsourced to an agency or contractor, the Producer

remains the party responsible for ensuring conformity

with the Decent Work Criteria and Indicators.

Intent

An employment contract is an agreement between the

employer and the employee on the employee’s basic

terms and conditions of employment.

In general, contractual arrangements in the

agricultural sector tend to be concluded verbally

rather than in writing. Written contracts are preferable,

but the most important consideration is that the terms

meet local legal requirements, that workers

understand their terms of employment and that they

agree to these terms.

Producers must explain all terms and check that

workers understand them and agree to them. This is

especially important in the agricultural context, where

literacy rates can be low. Where possible, the contract

of employment shall be in written form.

The Producer must obtain the worker’s consent

in advance regarding all working conditions.

CRITERION 6.14

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.14.1

All workers are consulted about working conditions (including requirements

relating to working hours and overtime), as part of the hiring process.

6.14.2

All workers are employed with a written contract.

✔

105

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

Contracts should, at a minimum, include:

The name of the employer and the worker;

Date of employment and duration

(or whether the position is permanent);

Nature of employment

(e.g. role or key responsibilities);

Wage and any benets.

Consent in daily management

If any terms of employment change, workers

must be informed and agree to the changes,

including changes in pay, working hours,

overtime hours and start and nish times.

If a contract is terminated, the Producer pays all

wages owed.

Further guidance can be obtained from the following

ILO conventions:

Convention 158: Termination of Employment

Convention, 1982

Convention 64: Contracts of Employment

(Indigenous Workers) Convention, 1939.

Guidance for implementation

The worker’s consent is needed at various stages

in the employment cycle, from recruitment and hiring

to daily management of workers. The following

guidelines apply.

Recruitment

Workers choose employment freely, without

coercion, and can leave or stay without threat

(either real or perceived).

Producers must ensure recruitment partners

(such as agencies) and labour contractors meet

BCI criteria. Where recruitment agencies or labour

contractors are used, Producers are responsible

for ensuring their understanding and compliance,

and that agencies communicate roles and terms

accurately.

Hiring

Workers must agree to their terms of employment.

The Producer – or recruiter – should:

Explain employment terms to each worker;

Obtain each worker’s conrmation that he/she

understands these terms;

Obtain each worker’s agreement, ideally in

writing and signed by both parties;

Provide a copy of the agreement to each worker

and retain a copy.

106

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

Intent

Producers are expected to comply with all national

law, which includes maintaining adequate records

of employment. Employment records provide

Producers with protection and evidence of legal

compliance, and ensure a record of worker

employment, should the need to clarify terms arise.

The Producer should keep adequate records

on employment obligations, in accordance with

national law and sufcient to enable monitoring.

CRITERION 6.15

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

6.15.1

Records on employment obligations are maintained on the following:

i. personnel les (for each worker)

ii. pay records

iii. working hours records

iv. workforce statistics

v. union agreements

vi. policies

vii. health & safety

viii. labour providers.

✔✔

107

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

Guidance for implementation

Producers should maintain up-to-date records of the following.

Records Details

Recommended

frequency of updates

Personnel

le (for each

worker)

– Copy of contract (see guidance

under Criterion 6.16 for further information)

– Any update or change of employment terms

– Copy of valid ID

– Contact details.

For each worker when

they start work, and

updated with each revision

of employment terms and

ID expiry date.

Pay records

– Payment amounts with deductions and bonuses for

all workers.

– Rates of pay, and legal pay requirements (including

minimum rates, tax payments, etc)

– Worker approval of any deductions.

As per payment cycle.

Hours

records

– Schedules

– Actual hours worked

Weekly

Workforce

statistics

– Number of workers on each type of contract

– Number of male and female workers

– Number of young workers.

Monthly or seasonally

Union

agreements

– Collective bargaining agreements As updated and agreed

Policies

As required by BCI criteria and national law, such as:

– Child labour policy

– Anti-discrimination policy

– Disciplinary and grievance procedures

– Flexible worker policy

– Occupational health and safety policy.

As updated

H&S

– H&S risk assessments, including those

for vulnerable workers

(e.g. young workers, pregnant workers)

– Accident record

– First aider qualication or training records

– Water quality checks.

As updated

Labour

providers

– Records of spot checks on labour recruitment

partners.

Monthly

108

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

The BCI encourages Producers to provide regular

employment as a best option, including direct

permanent employment with guaranteed hours or

pay. Other forms of employment provide Producers

with exibility but should only be used when

necessary. Regardless of the type of employment

contract, all workers should receive equivalent

benets and employment conditions relative to their

period of employment, such as wages, overtime

payments, rest times and health and safety protection.

The ILO’s Migrant Workers (Supplementary

Provisions) Convention, 1975 (No. 143) states that

migrant workers ‘shall enjoy equality of treatment

with nationals in respect in particular of guarantees

of security of employment, the provision of alternative

employment, relief work and retraining.’

Intent

Employers worldwide have become increasingly

dependent on exible work contracts, including the

use of agency workers, directly employed temporary

workers, seasonal workers, daily workers, piece rate

workers and zero hours contract workers. Types of

contractual arrangements in the agricultural sector

are especially variable with heavy reliance on

seasonal workers, and the inclusion of sharecropping

and contract farming.

Such exible work types create precarious, unreliable

conditions for workers, making it difcult to plan for

the provision of individual and family needs. Workers

under these arrangements do not enjoy the same

length of tenure or employment security as permanent

workers. Notably, migrant workers are more likely to

have contracts with less regular work, making them

more vulnerable to a reduction in living standards

and a lack of employment stability. These workers

are often migrant workers, and are more at risk of

modern slavery risks such as trafcking, payment

of recruitment fees, passport conscation and other

forms of bonded labour.

The Producer should ensure that temporary,

seasonal, and (sub-) contracted workers receive

equivalent benets and employment conditions

to permanent workers in relation to their period

of employment.

CRITERION 6.16

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

6.16.1

There is a policy on the treatment of temporary, seasonal and (sub-) contracted

workers.

✔✔

109

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

Where labour recruitment or contracting partners

are used (such as agencies), Producers should:

Ensure these partners adopt the policy

for managing temporary, seasonal

and (sub-) contracted workers;

Not charge recruitment fees to workers,

directly or indirectly;

Accurately communicate roles and terms

of employment in a language each worker

understands, and conrm their understanding;

Ensure that workers have all their documents,

including passports in their own possession,

with no documents retained at any stage of

employment, including at the recruitment stage;

Ensure transportation and accommodation,

if provided, are of an acceptable standard;

Communicate the above requirements to

agencies, spot check and monitor agency

practices to ensure compliance with the above.

Guidance for implementation

In order to provide equivalent benets and

employment conditions to exible workers,

Producers should:

Prioritise use of permanent contracts

where possible;

Establish a policy for managing temporary,

seasonal and (sub-) contracted workers;

Maintain personnel records for all workers,

including copies of contracts and copies of ID;

Provide channels for these workers to easily

raise concerns;

Ensure these workers have equivalent conditions

to their directly employed or permanent

workforce. At a minimum, this must include:

Equal wages;

Equal overtime payments;

Equal rest times;

Equal health and safety protection, including

provision of PPE and health and safety training;

Equal right to freedom of association

or right to join worker organisations.

Producers can also consider providing the following:

Access to permanent job opportunities;

Training opportunities;

Equal hours of work.

110

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

perform arduous manual labour for long hours, which

can be extended further during peak periods, such as

planting and harvesting. Despite health risks, workers

may request longer hours and even forego rest days

in order to raise their income. Overtime hours must

always be worked with due regard for requirements

in national legislation and collective agreements,

including wage rates and health and safety.

Intent

Working hours are another basic working condition

with a strong impact on workers’ health, quality of life

and level of productivity. Maximum limits for daily

and weekly working hours, rest times, shift time and

overtime are often set by national legislation, although

the agricultural sector is commonly exempted from

these laws. This is an important gap in the protection

of agricultural workers, as many workers regularly

The Producer should ensure that working hours

comply with national laws or relevant collective

agreements, whichever is more favourable to the

worker.

CRITERION 6.17

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

6.17.1

Proportion of farms aware of minimum legal requirements and relevant collective

agreements on working hours.

6.17.2

The Producer is aware of the minimum legal requirements and relevant collective

agreements on working hours.

✔

111

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

The guidance also states that daily working hours

should allow for adequate periods of rest, which

includes:

Regular short breaks;

Meal break(s);

Break of at least 8 hours

within any 24-hour period;

Rest day of one full day per week.

When setting working hours and shift patterns,

employers should factor in the nature of the work

and workload, in particular in relation to its physical

and mental effects on workers.

Managing Working Hours

Producers should have systems in place to manage

working hours enabling them to:

Record and monitor working hours for each

worker, with special monitoring of vulnerable

workers (such as pregnant and young workers);

Adjust working hours when excessive hours

or working hour limitations occur;

Identify specic roles that are more likely

to involve excessive working hours.

Guidance for implementation

Working hours and rest

Unlike industrial sectors, there are no international

limits on working hours in agriculture. Some national

government authorities set working hours limits.

Employers should check local legislation on which

limits apply to their workers. In some cases, working

hours may be set by collective bargaining

agreements. If any such agreement is not the same

as national legislation, the agreement or legislation

that is most favourable to workers takes

precedence.

In countries where there is no clear legislation on

or regulation of working hours in agricultural sectors,

employers can use the ILO Code of Practice ‘Safety

and health in agriculture’ (2011) as guidance.

It states that workers should only work more than

eight hours per day in special cases: when the

nature of the work is such that increased hours

do not increase risk to workers; health and safety;

and when a shift system is in place to minimise

accumulation of fatigue.

112

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

Where possible, employers must prevent putting

their employees in a position where they feel they

must work overtime. This can arise unintentionally

(e.g. through the underpayment of wages) or

intentionally (e.g. if employers tell workers they must

work overtime). In both cases, it can constitute forced

labour if the overtime exceeds legal limits.

As overtime hours are worked in addition to regular

hours, they should be paid at a premium rate.

This is in recognition that the worker is going above

and beyond what they are obliged to do.

Overtime is covered in the ILO Convention ‘Reduction

of Hours of Work Recommendation’ 1962 (No. 116),

however, agricultural sectors are exempted. Instead,

national government authorities are responsible for

setting limits and providing guidance.

Intent

As with working hours in general, the regulation

of overtime hours is important, as overtime has an

impact on workers’ health, quality of life and level of

productivity. Overtime also contributes signicantly

to an employer’s ability to increase labour capacity

without hiring additional workers. This is useful when

more capacity is needed temporarily, for example

during planting and harvesting periods. From

the worker’s perspective, working additional hours

is often a good way to supplement their income.

It is important, however, that employers use overtime

in line with legal requirements and with workers’

consent. A worker should be able to earn a decent

wage without working any overtime. With this in mind,

overtime should be seen a supplementary activity that

is not dependent on either the employer or employee.

The Producer should ensure that overtime work

is voluntary and remunerated in accordance

with the law or applicable collective agreements.

CRITERION 6.18

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

6.18.1

Proportion of farms paying overtime hours at a premium,

in line with legal requirements.

6.18.2

Overtime hours are paid at a premium, in line with legal requirements.

✔

113

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Employment

Conditions

Decent Work

‘Pay’ should be understood as a broad concept

that includes all payments, including basic wages,

bonuses and non-monetary benets.

A number of ILO conventions set standards relating

to working conditions; these are directed towards

legislating governments. Agricultural workers are

not covered by the two main conventions on hours

of work (ILO Convention 1 and Convention 30) or

weekly rest (Convention 14 and Convention 106).

In terms of wages, Convention 99 requires states

to establish minimum wages for the agricultural

sector; the Equal Remuneration Convention,

1951 (No. 100) lays down the principle of equal

remuneration for men and women workers for work

of equal value (see ‘Discrimination’ above).

The Plantations Convention, 1958 (No. 110) deals

with conditions of employment of plantation workers.

It covers conditions of work, contracts of

employment, collective bargaining, methods of

wage payment, paid leave, weekly rest, maternity

protection, accident compensation, freedom of

association, labour inspection, housing and medical

care. It also covers the recruitment and engagement

of migrant workers.

Guidance for implementation

Wages are among the most important working

conditions, with a critical link to the living standards

of workers and their families. The term ‘wages’ refers

to the total remuneration paid to workers for their

labour, including monetary compensation provided

on an hourly, daily, weekly or monthly basis, piece

rates, bonuses and in-kind payments, such as food

and housing.

BCI does not consider it appropriate to determine

‘cash standards’ for cotton production, such as

wages and working hours. Collective and individual

agreement establishes these in national legislation,

collective bargaining agreements and individual

contracts of employment. BCI requires Producer-

employers to comply with national employment

legislation and that national legislation prevails,

where it sets higher standards on particular issues

than the BCI Criteria.

The principle of equal pay for work of equal value

means that men and women are paid the same rate

for performing work that is the same, broadly similar

or of comparable value. Determining whether jobs

are of comparable value can be complex, but rates

should be established without reference to gender.

114

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Basic Treatment &

Disciplinary Measures

Decent Work

offence, as well as mandatory requirements with

disciplinary measures that can lead to dismissal.

It should also be noted that collective agreements

often contain clauses on disciplinary procedures.

The ILO does not have a specic convention

addressing disciplinary practices. However, different

UN agreements are relevant, such as the Universal

Declaration of Human Rights, and most voluntary

initiatives for managing working conditions in supply

chains contain standards on disciplinary procedures.

Intent

It is essential that every employee is treated with

respect and dignity. BCI considers it important to

explicitly address this issue within the Decent Work

Principle in order to reect the importance of fairness

and transparency in disciplinary practices.

Disciplinary practices are often regulated by

national legislation, although the degree and nature

of coverage varies considerably by country. In

particular, many countries have specic national

legislation making abuse in the workplace a criminal

The Producer must not engage in or tolerate the

use of corporal punishment, mental or physical

coercion, sexual harassment, physical or verbal

abuse or harassment of any kind.

CRITERION 6.19

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

6.19.1

Use of corporal punishment, mental or physical coercion, sexual harassment

or physical or verbal abuse or harassment of any kind, is prohibited.

✔ ✔✔

115

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Basic Treatment &

Disciplinary Measures

Decent Work

Employers should ensure that all those within

management and supervisory positions are

aware of the disciplinary procedure and that all

disciplinary action is taken within the framework

of the disciplinary procedure. The presence of

a disciplinary procedure does not eliminate the

possibility of harsh or inhumane disciplinary action

being taken. It is therefore important that in addition

to a disciplinary procedure, Producers foster a

culture of respect in the workplace.

Producers must ensure all worker concerns

are dealt with fairly, and that they communicate

the response or solution to those concerns to the

worker.

Guidance for implementation

The guidance provided for Criterion 6.24 (below)

is relevant to this criterion as well. Employers should

ensure their disciplinary procedure is documented,

in line with national legislation, and based on the

principle of proportionality.

Most employers will have some exibility in

determining their disciplinary procedure and the

severity of the disciplinary actions. However, some

forms of disciplinary action are prohibited: corporal

punishment, mental and physical coercion, sexual

harassment, and physical or verbal abuse or

harassment of any kind.

116

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

The Producer must have a transparent policy

and system for disciplinary measures,

and must communicate this to workers.

CRITERION 6.20

constitutes acceptable behaviour in the workplace.

They should also establish a fair and transparent

framework to follow where there are allegations of

misconduct. This ensures that all workers are aware

of their rights and receive fair and consistent

treatment.

Intent

Fair disciplinary procedures not only help to eliminate

inhumane treatment of workers, they are a basic tool

for sound people management that help to create

a productive and harmonious workplace. In the case

of medium and large farms, policies on disciplinary

practices should provide a clear statement of what

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.20.1

A policy and system for disciplinary measures is available and communicated

to workers.

6.20.2

Any disciplinary actions are proportionate to the conduct in question,

and the system in place includes fair warning principles.

✔ ✔

Principle 6: Decent Work

Basic Treatment &

Disciplinary Measures

Decent Work

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 6: Decent Work

Basic Treatment &

Disciplinary Measures

Decent Work

When a worker is disciplined they should be given

the opportunity to defend themselves.

Disciplinary actions should be documented in two

ways: in the worker’s individual records (if kept by

the employer) and in a general log of all disciplinary

actions taken. Both pieces of documentation should

include the following information:

Reason for the disciplinary action;

Disciplinary action being taken;

Date of disciplinary action.

In some cases, unions may play a central role in

protecting workers during any disciplinary process.

Their function is to ensure the disciplinary procedure

is being followed and that the worker’s rights are

being respected.

Guidance for implementation

Disciplinary procedures can be documented in

various ways, including by having a stand-alone

disciplinary policy and incorporating specic

clauses in employment contracts. It is important

that the full procedure is documented, including:

Denitions of unacceptable behaviour;

Processes for handling an accusation;

Process for escalation in cases of repeat

offences or lack of improvement;

Overview of disciplinary measures;

Roles and responsibilities throughout the

disciplinary process.

Workers should be notied of the disciplinary

procedure at the start of their employment. This can

be done by incorporating the procedure into

employment contracts and including it in workers’

inductions. It is important that Producers check

workers’ understanding of training, and support any

workers facing disciplinary action by reminding

them of the procedures.

Disciplinary measures must be in line with national

legislation. In most cases, national legislation will set

maximum parameters that employers may not

exceed. This means that options are available to

employers in setting disciplinary measures.

Employers should ensure that disciplinary measures

are proportionate to the action for which the worker

is being disciplined.

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

The Producer should develop partnership and

collaboration on decent work at local, regional

or national level.

CRITERION 6.21

Additionally, as members of local communities,

Producers should recognise their role in contributing

and supporting local communities:

In times of need (e.g. natural disasters)

by taking advantage of equipment or facilities;

In improving living standards with expertise

(e.g. domestic agricultural practices);

By taking advantage of equipment or facilities

(e.g. providing space for community leaders

to meet);

Through education on caring for the environment

and basic health and safety practices.

Intent

Producers should engage in dialogue and activities

on decent work in order to:

Identify and adopt best practices;

Contribute or share own best practices.

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.21.1

Number of alliances or partnerships established with local organisations

on decent work.

6.21.2

Number of outreach activities to specic target groups beyond farmers

(e.g. women, children, casual workers, migrant workers, local authorities,

school teachers, pesticide applicators, cotton pickers, etc.).

6.21.3

Proportion of Learning Groups (for smallholder PUs) or farms (for medium farm

PUs) with a specic person or group in place to actively promote decent work

within the community (e.g. decent work committees, child labour monitoring

committees, local pressure group, Lead Farmer, etc.).

6.21.4

A specic person or group is in place to actively promote Decent Work within the

community (e.g. Decent Work committees, child labour monitoring committees,

local pressure group, lead farmer, etc.).

✔

Principle 6: Decent Work

Collective

Partnership

Decent Work

✔ ✔✔

✔✔

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

As key employers in many areas, Producers should

also engage with local communities with the aim of

supporting community development and wellbeing

of community members, extending decent working

conditions to other employers in the community,

and securing a solid base of capable workers.

Community engagement activities can include:

Establishing and managing local decent work

committees with involvement from other

employers in the community;

Establishing or supporting child labour

monitoring committees;

Contributing training and development of skills,

safety and development of the potential

workforce or community members;

Putting forward individuals for Lead Farmer roles.

Guidance for implementation

Producers should proactively manage their own

understanding and learning of best practices by

engaging in international dialogue and activities

on decent work.

Engagement can include:

participating in working groups

joining organisations

receiving training

joining collaborative projects

establishing new initiatives.

Any new initiatives should aim to build awareness

of - or improve - working conditions. They may be

organised by local, national or international bodies.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Collective

Partnership

Decent Work

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

The Producer must develop effective producer

organisation and/or strenghten existing ones.

CRITERION 6.22

Intent

Producers and notably in the smallholder context

should develop and adopt strategy to engage in

collective action in the form of Producer organisations.

Those organisations come in many different ways that

include cooperatives, farmer associations or informal

groups of producers. A Producer organisation is

an organisation formed by producers to market their

produce. This development strategy is an important

way fo small-scale farmers to compete in liberalised

markets.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Collective

Partnership

Decent Work

NO. IMPROVEMENT INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

6.22.1

The Producer Unit has a programme in place (or is part of a programme)

to develop effective producer organisation and/or strengthen existing ones.

6.22.2

Proportion of farmers in the Producer Unit members of producer organisation.

6.22.3

Estimated number of Producer organisations with women holding a position

of responsibility (e.g. decision-making position, board membership, etc.).

6.22.4

Number of basic services provided by the producer organisation to their

members (e.g. marketing, inputs, extension, storage, credit, market information,

processing, etc.).

6.22.5

The Producer is a member of a local producer organisation.

✔✔

✔

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

While collective action in itself cannot solve all

the competitive and structural challenges gaced

by Producers, Producer Organisation can create:

An intermediary and larger business that enables

them and notably smallholders to compete more

effectively in the market and increase their

bargaining power;

A platform for producers to promote and defend

their interests;

A channel through which support and investment

can be provided to ensure implementation of the

Better Cotton Standard System.

Guidance for implementation

There are many different actors and organisations

that can provide business services and other kinds

of support and mandate to develop and maintain

capacity of Producer Organisations:

Government ministries and agencies;

Development NGOs;

Specialist support agencies;

Donors and other international organisations;

Alternative trading organisations.

Producers Organisations should be commercial

organisations and provide tangible benets to their

members and cover their costs from their business

income, unlike other type of rural organisation such

as village or community-based organisations.

They should generally be owned and controlled

by their members, who are mostly smallholders.

Producer Organisations should also collectively

market members cotton production and nd/

negotiate outlets.

Principle 6: Decent Work

Collective

Partnership

Decent Work

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Introduction to the Principle

An effective management system is the backbone

that enables Producers to achieve the other

six principles.

A management system is the framework of policies,

processes and procedures used by the Producer

to ensure that they can full all the tasks required

to meet the BCI P&C, and to enable continuous

improvement in farming practices.

An effective management system enables

a Producer to:

1. Develop and implement a CIP that focuses on

addressing the key sustainability issues identied

through training (for farmers and PU staff), and

other corrective actions.

2. Evaluate the effectiveness of training provided

for farmers and PU staff as well as capacity-

building work, and propose improvements

to these.

3. Develop and implement a data management

system that maintains accurate and complete

records of the data required by BCI.

4. Identify the key sustainability issues that create

risks that the Producer may not comply with

the core indicators.

The BCSS places special emphasis on driving

change through continuous improvement, and on

demonstrating results through the annual collection

of eld-level data. The BCSS also utilises self-

assessment as one of the fundamental assurance

mechanisms, ensuring that the Producer has

primary responsibility for assessing and reporting

on performance. These essential features of BCI’s

approach depend upon effective management at

the Large Farm or PU level. Management activities

are essential to ensuring that: farmers are trained

to adopt improved practices; risks to noncompliance

are identied and remediated; progress against

production criteria is monitored and assessed; and

eld-level data is accurately maintained and

systematically reported.

The management system also plays a vital role in

safeguarding the credibility of the group assurance

model used for smallholders, medium farms and

large farms (where this has been specically

approved by the BCI Council). Smallholders and

medium farms are organised into PUs and receive

licences at the PU level. The internal management

system coordinated by the PU Manager, who is

responsible for compliance, as specied in the

scope of this document, instils condence that

individual BCI Farmers are adopting the practices

Principle 7: Management

Management System

BCI Farmers Operate an Effective

Management System

123

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

promoted through training and fullling the

requirements of the standard. Likewise, the PU

Manager must follow the training plan dened by

the Implementing Partners that details the relevant

sustainability topics and skills required to ensure

that they and their Field Facilitators are equipped to

provide the necessary support to the BCI Farmers

within the PU.

Internal monitoring is an important component of

the management system, as it maintains the integrity

of the self-assessment process by ensuring the

consistency of BCI Farmer performance across

the group. This requires ongoing farmer

engagement and the promotion of self-regulation

by the PU Manager, creating a sense of ownership

among PU members.

While it is the responsibility of the Producer to

determine and structure management activities in

a way that ts their needs, BCI has dened a set

of common criteria considered to be the essential

components of an effective management system.

Principle 7: Management

Management System

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BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

A continuous improvement planning process will

guide the design of the CIP, which will depend on

the farmer category and the priority areas identied

by the Producer. The process includes sufcient

exibility to adapt plans to the local context of the PU.

This ensures that Producers have a clear plan in

place, and implement, monitor and review it as part

of the management system.

Documentation supporting the implementation

of the CIP must be sufcient to:

Guide PU staff in the activities they are expected

to conduct to achieve the CIP objectives;

Provide justication for management decisions

taken for internal monitoring, self-assessment

and external assessment purposes (second party

credibility checks and third-party verications).

Intent

This Criterion and its indicators indicate that the CIP

must be prepared and approved prior to the start of

management activities.

The CIP should focus on a few specic high-priority

areas where there are local sustainability challenges

and/or signicant benets in adopting more

sustainable farming practices. This prioritisation will

help ensure that the Producer focuses improvement

efforts on the areas that will have the greatest impact,

rather than trying to address improvements across all

six Principles at once.

The Producer must develop and implement

a Continuous Improvement Plan.

CRITERION 7.1

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

7.1.1

A Continuous Improvement Plan is available, implemented and monitored

according to the applicable Better Cotton Initiative Continuous Improvement

planning process, and reviewed annually.

✔ ✔ ✔

Principle 7: Management

Continuous

Improvement Planning

Management System

The specic Environmental Resources Management

plans detailed under Principle 2 (Water stewardship),

Principle 3 (Soil health) and Principle 4 (Biodiversity

enhancement) should be incorporated in the overall

CIP.

A continuous improvement template document will

be made available in 2018 to facilitate the creation

and implementation of the CIP.

Guidance for implementation

A CIP provides a way for farmers to measure,

manage and improve their performance in relation

to the Better Cotton P&C.

The Producer should list specic goals and/or

ongoing improvement projects that pertain to these

Principles. They should prioritise specic criteria

and indicators within a given Production Principle –

selected for their relevance to local sustainability

challenges – in order to maximise the impact of the

CIP. Each priority area included in the CIP should

be supported by clear goals and planned activities.

125

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

The training of BCI Farmers and workers by Producer

staff is a key means of sharing best practices with

them and providing farmers and workers with the

opportunity to question and seek clarications on

the material presented. Competent and well-trained

Producer staff should design training opportunities

to maximise BCI Farmer/worker participation and

to coincide with relevant issues during the cotton

season.

It is important that Producers identify the key

sustainability issues locally to be addressed as

a priority through the training, and take a exible

approach to the format of this training. In particular,

Producers should consider the most appropriate

format to maximise the chances of more sustainable

methods being adopted, focusing above all on

training formats that visibly show the benets of

implementing an improved practice. In this way,

BCI Farmers and workers can observe these

practices in action and see the benets for

themselves. Careful planning and objective setting

is essential to achieving this. Examples of training

formats are given in the Guidance.

The Producer must ensure that BCI Farmers

and workers receive regular training on best

practices to achieve the Better Cotton Initiative

Principles and Criteria Core Indicators and

relevant Continuous Improvement Plan goals.

CRITERION 7.2

Similarly, Producers should actively monitor and

record how widely practices promoted through

BCI Farmer and worker are being adopted.

This information is essential to enabling Producers

to evaluate the effectiveness of their training efforts.

A review of the reasons behind the level of adoption

identied can also help Producers understand any

changes that might be necessary to improve the rate

of adoption in subsequent years and ensure

continuous improvement in the content and delivery

of training materials. This will likely include an analysis

of the risks perceived by farmers in adopting the

improved practices, for example, in terms of an

adverse impact on cotton production and/or an

increase in nancial inputs that may be needed

to introduce the improved practices.

Principle 7: Management

Training

Management System

126

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

and other participants can be facilitated through

meeting in an informal outdoor setting, and

complement more formal classroom training that

may still be necessary for some aspects of the

training content.

2. Demonstration plots to showcase improved

practices – this will clearly show the results

that can be achieved to other BCI Farmers

visiting these plots, and increase the chances

of widespread adoption. Once again, there is

an opportunity for participants to directly

question the farmer on specic issues, including

any challenges they faced and how these were

overcome. Examples include the use of

intercropping, protection methods against insect

pests and the reduced use of early season

pesticide sprays.

Guidance for implementation

Training plans and materials

There are a variety of different approaches that

Producers can take to the planning, content and

format of the training to ensure compliance with this

Criterion. The following examples should be seen as

an indicative list of suggestions that Producers can

use as a starting point to which they can add their

own ideas.

Two key approaches that can have a signicant

impact on the adoption of best practices are:

1. Using BCI Farmers as trainers in the eld –

every LG will have a Lead Farmer who can be

encouraged to take on this role, if they are not

already doing this. There may also be other

BCI Farmers within the LG who have specic

experience of the improved practice being

taught, who could be encouraged to share their

experiences. Interaction with the farmer trainer

Principle 7: Management

Training

Management System

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

7.2.1

A training plan identifying the key sustainability issues to be addressed

for the Producer, the name of the training provider(s), scheduling and expected

participants is available and implemented.

7.2.2

Training materials for BCI Farmers and workers are available to cover

Better Cotton Initiative Principles and Criteria Core Indicators, with a focus

on key sustainability issues in the local context. Best practices (validated locally)

related to production are shared with BCI Farmers through appropriate

dissemination material in the local language.

7.2.3

The Producer reports annual data on number of Better Cotton Initiative farmers

and workers trained by gender and topic to demonstrate the implementation of

the training plan.

7.2.4

The Producer operates a system to:

i. Assess and document the level of adoption of practices promoted

through training;

ii. Identify and address the risks associated with adopting the practices

promoted through training;

iii. Evaluate the training materials continuously to improve their content

and delivery.

✔✔ ✔

127

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Training Monitoring System

Seeking participant feedback on the training

conducted is one way to help identify improvements

that could be made to increase future adoption

levels of improved practices. The feedback can

also highlight training that worked well and facilitate

further review, and analysis about how this could be

replicated in the future for similar or different topics

in the same or different regions. Improvements

could be identied in terms of the delivery format

of the training to be undertaken, the content of the

training and follow-up mechanisms for supporting

farmers who use improved farming methods for the

rst time.

Another method to consider is taking a small sample

of so-called ‘outlier’ farmers. The analysis of these

enables a deeper dive into the factors that

contribute towards a small number of individual

farmers who have effectively implemented an

improved practice. These can then be contrasted

with the factors that appear to have resulted in

non-adoption by a similarly sized small group of

farmers. Such an analysis can help to isolate the key

reasons behind the extent to which a particular

practice is successfully adopted, and can help to

focus future training activities on addressing these

reasons.

Just as importantly, the outlier analysis may also

highlight reasons outside of training delivery and

content considerations that should be addressed

by Producers through other means, if this is not

already taking place. For example, Producers could

use new or existing partnerships with scientic and

academic institutions, if they do not have the

necessary capacity and expertise to address these

considerations internally.

Producers also need to consider the best tools to

convey the training material. Where literacy levels

are low, for example, pictorial training tools with

few or no words (such as posters, wall paintings

and picture notebooks) are critical to communicating

key messages.

The opportunity to carry out practical exercises, for

example, making pesticides from natural ingredients

or conducting surveys of pests on the cotton crop

are recommended ways of enabling BCI Farmers

to learn by doing and enhance the chances of

successful adoption.

Partnerships with local scientic and academic

research institutions can be a useful way of

delivering relevant training by experts directly to BCI

Farmers. Such institutions have a good knowledge

of the key local sustainability issues, and will be able

to target the training to address these effectively.

They may also be able to conduct research and eld

trials on new, improved practices that can

subsequently be integrated into future training

events.

‘Role play’ or street theatre are further tools

that can be used, where practical, to convey key

sustainability messages to BCI Farmers and

workers. Technology may also play a key role,

where it is available, in complementing the other

means of training delivery. Radio programmes can

help to increase awareness of improved farming

methods, as can online discussion groups such

as those on Yammer, WhatsApp and WeChat.

Principle 7: Management

Training

Management System

128

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

An effective data management system underpins a

Producer’s ability to operate and maintain a robust

internal management system. A Producer who earns

a Better Cotton licence should be capable of

collecting, processing, compiling and reporting

complete and accurate data and information, as

required by BCI, about project participants (in the

case of PUs), numbers of BCI Farmers and workers

trained, as well as the outcomes of seasonal activities.

This data and information instils external condence

in the Producer’s level of professionalism and ability

to inuence cotton production practices in diverse

contexts worldwide.

Specically, for PUs, BCI requires basic data about

the individual BCI Farmers participating in the BCSS

within the remit of the PU. This is to ensure

transparency and an aggregated understanding

about who is being reached and potentially beneting

from the capacity-building support of the PU. Farm-

level input and output data is critical to effective farm

management, and a Producer of more sustainable

cotton is one who is fully aware of their individual input

use, associated costs, yield achieved, and how

protable they are each season.

The Producer must operate a data management

system.

CRITERION 7.3

Categorising farm workers following a set of globally

standardised denitions enables an understanding

of the types of workers involved in Better Cotton

production worldwide. The intent of proling the farm

labour force is to gain more clarity on estimates of

the types and numbers (and percentage breakdown

by gender) of workers. Categorisation can support

the identication of high-risk groups potentially

requiring training or other activities, such as building

partnerships with specialised organisations to support

decent work outcomes for vulnerable groups.

Indicator 7.3.5 helps to ensure that Better Cotton

owing into the supply chain can be traced back to

licensed BCI Farmers. When needed, it also enables

or designated third-party auditors to cross-check

purchase records from gins with receipts held by

farmers. These measures help to ensure the overall

credibility of the BCSS.

Principle 7: Management

Management System

Data

Management

129

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

NO. CORE INDICATORS SIZE OF FARM

7.3.1

The Producer collects and maintains accurate and complete Producer Unit data

in the format required by the Better Cotton Initiative. This will include (but not be

limited to) name and contact information of Producer Unit Manager; list of

farmers organised into Learning Groups (for smallholder Producer Units); age,

gender, education, level of farmers; expected seed cotton production per farmer

and area under cultivation; geo-location of Producer Units; names of gins. The

Producer Unit data is updated annually, at the latest by the end of sowing.

7.3.2

The Producer maintains a farm-level record keeping mechanism e.g. Farmer

Field Book for essential production data on inputs and outputs in an accurate

manner.

7.3.3

The Producer operates a system to collect, compile and report complete

and accurate Results Indicator data in accordance with the Results Indicator

Reporting template.

7.3.4

The Producer creates and maintains a prole of the farm labour force,

including estimates of numbers of workers, as per the Better Cotton Initiative

dened worker categories and disaggregated by gender. The labour prole

is updated annually, at the latest one month after sowing.

7.3.5

The Producer ensures that all farmers within the Producer Unit maintain

receipts of sales of Better Cotton, including the buyer name, date, and volume,

for at least one year and is able to collect and submit these sale records to

BCI upon request.

7.3.6

The Producer maintains receipts of sales of Better Cotton, including

the buyer name, date, and volume, for at least one year. The Large Farm

Manager is able to collect and submit these sale records to BCI upon request.

✔✔

✔✔ ✔

✔✔

✔

Principle 7: Management

Management System

Data

Management

130

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Principle 7: Management

Management System

Data

Management

For core indicators 7.3.2 and 7.3.3, the required

data points and deadline for submission are

indicated in the BCI document, Working with Results

Indicators.

The globally standardised set of BCI Farmer and

worker categories are available in Annex 4.

Additionally, each BCI country manager (or

designated representative) will provide Producers

with a national reference list indicating which global

categories correspond to the local context.

Indicator 7.3.5 requires all BCI Farmers to maintain

records of their sales of Better Cotton for at least one

year. This is critical to help ensure that Better Cotton

owing into the supply chain can be traced back to

licensed BCI Farmers. Under the BCI Chain of

Custody Guidelines, gins or agents buying from

licensed BCI Farmers are required to maintain

purchase records, and in specic cases, BCI may

cross-check these records by comparing them with

receipts held by farmers. It is important that licensed

farmers understand that they may sell their cotton

to any buyer, and are not required to sell their cotton

as Better Cotton.

If farmers are selling to a market or middleman and

do not know where their cotton will be ginned, it is

sufcient to retain a receipt showing the sale to the

market or middleman, along with the date and

volume. Sales receipts can be held by farmers, but

PU Managers must be able to collect these receipts

and share with BCI if requested (for example, as

part of BCI’s supply chain monitoring work).

Guidance for implementation

BCI requires each Producer to establish and

operate a data management system that enables

them to meet the core indicators of the criteria.

However, the specic tools and processes may

be selected by the Producer, unless explicitly stated

in the P&C or Assurance Programme and associated

documents. For example, when Producers are

required to report data or information to conform

with the P&C, the formats or tools required by BCI

must be used.

The majority of Producers do not only produce

cotton or implement BCI projects. Therefore, an

ideal data management system will enable the

requirements of the Better Cotton P&C to be met,

while meeting the other management needs of

the Producer outside their afliation with BCI.

When operating the data management system, it is

important for the Producer to continuously assess

their adherence to data quality principles. These

are dened as:

1 Uniqueness – No person or thing will be

recorded more than once, based on how that

person or thing is identied (e.g. farmers).

2 Validity – Data conforms to its denition (format,

type, range), e.g. synthetic fertiliser reported as

NPK values, rather than product name.

3 Consistency – The degree to which reported

results and methods of measurement across

multiple data sets and databases are aligned.

4 Accuracy – The degree to which data correctly

describes the ‘real world’ object or event being

described.

5 Timeliness – Data is reported by the designated

deadline and deadlines align with seasonality in

each context.

6 Completeness – The comprehensiveness of the

data, as measured by the proportion of reported

data against the potential of ‘100% complete’.

7 Integrity – The degree to which data and data

collection processes are clear and transparent.

131

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Intent

This Criterion is focused on identifying potential risks

of non-compliance with the core indicators at an

early stage in the season. The earlier these risks

are identied, the more time Producers will have

to implement measures to mitigate these risks and

reduce the chance of a licence not being granted.

These risks can be identied through many

The Producer must monitor and review risks of

noncompliance and implementation of corrective

actions.

CRITERION 7.4

processes, including internal monitoring, self-

assessment and external assessment. Whenever risks

are identied, Producers must ensure that they have

effective mechanisms in place as part of their internal

management system processes to manage these

risks, through the planning and implementation of

appropriate corrective actions.

Principle 7: Management

Monitoring

Management System

NO. CORE INDICATOR SIZE OF FARM

7.4.1

The Producer operates a system to:

i. Identify and address the risks of non-comformity with core indicators;

ii. Plan and enforce the implementation of Corrective Actions resulting

from monitoring activities.

✔ ✔ ✔

132

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Similarly, the ndings from any external assessments

through the second party credibility check and

third-party verication processes conducted in the

previous year will provide additional critical baseline

information for identifying non-compliance risks.

It will also help to identify non-conformities requiring

the planning and implementation of specic

corrective actions within the required timelines.

New Producers will need to undertake a baseline

self-assessment to identify potential non-compliance

risks, so they can implement that plans to mitigate

these risks.

For both groups of Producers, the feedback

provided by BCI on their performance through the

Results Indicator learning dashboards, particularly

when compared to Producers in the same farmer

category and country can help to identify weak

areas. The Results Indicator data can also assist

the development and renement of Producers’

Continuous Improvement objectives, while enabling

them to learn from existing good practices.

Guidance for implementation

Producers can focus on using three key processes

for identifying, managing and mitigating risks:

internal monitoring, self-assessment and external

assessment through the second party credibility

check or third-party verication. Taken together,

these can provide complementary information and

help to identify corrective actions that can be

implemented to achieve the required improvements.

By conducting internal monitoring throughout the

cotton growing season (through eld observations

by PU staff and their interactions with farmers and

workers), Producers can gain an indication of the

likelihood of risks identied by the self-assessment

and external assessment checks becoming a reality

(see below). Internal monitoring can also help to

identify new risks to compliance at an early stage,

so that corrective actions can be implemented to

mitigate them.

The self-assessment process, as one of the

fundamental tools of the Better Cotton Assurance

programme, provides another important way for

Producers to monitor their performance throughout

the season as part of the implementation of their

internal management system. A review of the

previous season’s self-assessment for existing

Producers is therefore a natural starting point

for highlighting risks of non-compliance with

core indicators. As explained in The Better

Cotton Assurance Programme document, the

self-assessment is required for 10% of each LG

for small farms and 10% of medium farms, in order

to provide a meaningful sample size on which to

base this risk analysis.

Principle 7: Management

Monitoring

Management System

133

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

BCI

PRINCIPLES

AND CRITERIA

ANNEXES

VERSION 2.1

1 MARCH 2018

134

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Table of Contents

Annex 1 – Terms and denitions

135

Annex 2 – Summary of relevant ILO conventions

143

Annex 3 – BCI categorisation of farmers

146

Annex 4 – Categorising farmers & workers in the Better Cotton Standard System

147

Annex 5 – Climate change mitigation and adaptation in BCI Principles and Criteria

153

135

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

ecosystems and the ecological complexes to which

they belong. This includes diversity within species,

between species and of ecosystems. (Source:

Convention on Biological Diversity 1992, Article 2).

Boll

The fruit or seedpod of the cotton plant. Bolls

typically have 4 or 5 segments (locks) that each

contain 6 – 10 seeds, from which the cotton bres

grow.

Bract

The opened segments of the boll, encasing the seed

cotton.

Colour

Colour is a measure of the whiteness and brightness

of the cotton bre. Colour is directly affected by the

weather, and length of exposure to the weather of

the open boll. Colour will start to deteriorate as soon

as the boll opens and the lint is exposed to moisture

and light. Other factors that may affect colour

include: pest damage, green leaf at harvest, seed

cotton with too high a moisture content, incorrect

storage and transport of cotton on dusty roads.

Abnormal colour may indicate deterioration in

quality, and variations in the colour of the raw cotton

may lead to variations in the colour of the dyed

fabric made from it.

Conservation tillage

A tillage system that leaves at least 30% of the soil

surface covered with crop residue or plant matter.

Contamination

Any foreign matter, i.e. any material in a lot of cotton

other than cotton lint or trash (cotton leaf). It may

be either man-made (e.g. grease, plastic, cloth, hair,

machinery parts) or natural (bark, grass, seed coat

fragments). Contamination can occur during

picking, transportation and ginning, and can include

items such as jute, textiles1.pèpoiu, thread pieces,

polyethylene, pieces of polypropylene string, human

and animal hairs, metal items, birds’ feathers, paper,

cigarette packages, etc.

Acre

A unit of area equal to 4,840 square yards or

43,560 square feet or 4000 square meters.

Approximately 0.4 hectares.

Atmospheric stability

The resistance of the atmosphere to vertical

motion. A large decrease of temperature with height

indicates an unstable condition which promotes up

and down air currents. A small decrease with height

indicates a stable condition which inhibits vertical

motion. Where the temperature increases with

height, through an inversion, the atmosphere is

extremely stable. Indicators of atmospheric

instability include fast moving cumulus clouds and

the build-up of thunderstorms.

Bale

A unit of compacted cotton lint ready for shipping to

the spinning mill, generally wrapped in a protective

covering and tied with bands or wires. By convention,

a ‘statistical’ bale weighs 480 pounds or 218

kilograms. However, nominal cotton bale weights

vary depending on the country of origin; for example,

a standard bale weighs 227 kilograms (500 pounds)

in Australia, 180 kilograms (396.6 pounds) in Brazil,

and 170 kilograms (375 pounds) in India and

Pakistan. Actual or physical bale

weights will vary

from the standard weight.

Benecial insects

Predators and parasitoids of pests.

Bio-control agents

Parasites, predators or pathogens used to control

the population of a pest. They may occur naturally

in the eld, or may be reared in a laboratory and

released in the eld, as required.

Biodiversity

‘Biological diversity’ or ‘Biodiversity’ is the variability

among living organisms from all sources, including,

among others, terrestrial, marine and other aquatic

Annex 1: Terms and Denitions

136

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Decent Work

Decent Work is understood by the BCI as the

International Labour Organization (ILO) concept

which describes work that provides opportunities

for women and men to work productively in

conditions of freedom, equity, security and human

dignity. This concept is understood to encompass

respect for the ILO core labour standards and

national labour legislation, alongside the promotion

of safe and productive work, social protection and

social dialogue.

Defoliation

The removal of leaves from the cotton plant,

in preparation for harvest.

Denitrication

The loss of nitrogen available to plants following

the conversion of soil nitrates to nitrogenous gases

(through microbial action).

Disadvantaged groups

Groups of people in the particular context that are

subjected to discrimination, or are susceptible to be

subjected to discrimination. This include (when

relevant / applicable to the particular context) the

usual grounds for discrimination (race, gender,

sexual orientation, etc…) and also migrant,

indigenous, tribal, ethnic minorities workers.

Eutrophication

An increase in nutrients (especially nitrogen and/or

phosphorus) in water; leads to excessive plant

growth and decay that in turn may lead to algal

blooms and a decline in water quality. An algal

bloom can deplete the oxygen available for sh

to breathe, posing a fatal risk to their survival.

Continuous improvement

A systematic process of continuously improving

management policies and practices by learning

from the outcomes of existing measures.

Conversion (of land)

Land conversion in the cotton production context

refers to altering the landscape in a way that

changes the natural or semi-natural state for the

purpose of growing Better Cotton.

Cotton lint (raw cotton)

The cotton bre separated from the seed cotton

during the ginning process. Each cotton bre

is a single cell that arises from the cotton seed.

Criteria

The Criteria listed under the Production Principles

provide a greater level of detail on the specic areas

to be addressed within each Production Principle.

Cultivar

An assemblage of plants that has been selected

for a particular attribute or combination of attributes;

it is clearly distinct, uniform and stable in those

characteristics and when propagated by

appropriate means, it retains those characteristics.

(Source: International Code of Nomenclature for

Cultivated Plants).

Cut-off date

BCI will not license illegal or irresponsible land use

conversion. Accordingly, any conversion of land

from its natural state after January 1, 2016 shall

not be accepted for licensing purposes unless it

complies with the requirements of this Standard.

(Note, land conversion occurring prior to 2016

shall be considered for the BCI licence, subject

to compliance with local legal requirements for land

use change in existence at the time of conversion.

This allowance is consistent with the requirement

of the BCI Standard at that time.)

Annex 1: Terms and Denitions

137

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Hectare

A unit of area, equal to 10,000 square metres.

Approximately 2.47 acres.

High Conservation Value (HCV)

– HCV1: Concentrations of biodiversity including

endemic species, and rare, threatened or

endangered species, that are signicant at global,

regional or national levels.

E.g. the presence of several globally threatened

bird species.

– HCV2: Large landscape-level ecosystems and

ecosystem mosaics that are signicant at global,

regional or national levels, and that contain viable

populations of the great majority of naturally

occurring species in natural patterns of

distribution and abundance.

E.g. a large tract of Mesoamerican ooded

grasslands and gallery forests with healthy

populations of hyacinth macaw, jaguar, maned

wolf, and giant otter, as well as most smaller

species.

– HCV3: Rare, threatened, or endangered

ecosystems, habitats or refugia.

E.g. patches of a regionally rare type of freshwater

swamp.

– HCV4: Basic ecosystem services in critical

situations, including protection of water

catchments and control of erosion of vulnerable

soils and slopes.

E.g. forest on steep slopes with avalanche risk

above a town.

– HCV5: Sites and resources fundamental for

satisfying the basic necessities of local

communities or indigenous peoples (for

livelihoods, health, nutrition, water etc.), identied

through engagement with these communities

or indigenous peoples.

E.g. key hunting areas for communities living

at subsistence level.

– HCV6: Sites, resources, habitats and landscapes

of global or national cultural, archaeological or

historical signicance, and/or of critical cultural,

ecological, economic or religious/sacred

importance for the traditional cultures of local

communities or indigenous peoples, identied

Fibre length

See Length.

Free, Prior and Informed Consent

‘Free, Prior and Informed Consent’ (FPIC) is dened

as a legal condition whereby a person or community

can be said to have given consent to an action prior

to its commencement, based upon a clear

appreciation and understanding of the facts,

implications and future consequences of that action,

and the possession of all relevant facts at the time

when consent is given. FPIC includes the right to

grant, modify, withhold or withdraw approval

Gender equality

Gender equality or gender equity means that women

and men have equal conditions for realising their full

human rights and for contributing to, and beneting

from, economic, social, cultural and political

development.

Genotype

The genetic make-up of an organism.

Ginning

The process whereby the cotton lint (bres) is

removed from the cotton seed.

Grade

The overall appearance of a sample of cotton,

primarily based on a classer’s assessment of colour,

visible trash and preparation (ginning). In this

context, ‘preparation’ describes the degree of

smoothness or roughness with which the cotton

is ginned and the relative neppiness and nappiness

of the ginned lint. Longer cottons normally have

rougher appearance after ginning than shorter

cottons. Naps are relatively easier for classers

to detect, but they are not as detrimental to cotton

quality as neps. Cotton classication by grade is

dened as the art and science of describing cotton

quality in terms of grade, according to ofcial

standards. Grading is based on a visual inspection

and evaluation of raw cotton quality.

Annex 1: Terms and Denitions

138

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Length uniformity

Length uniformity is the ratio of the mean bre length

and upper half mean bre length. The more uniform

the bre length, the better the cotton is for spinning,

as uniformity makes it easier to produce yarns of

uniform strength and quality (in contrast to variable

bre lengths). The greater the lack of length

uniformity, the higher the percentage of short bres

in the sample. This decreases spinning mill

efciency, and increases the quantity of waste bre

(i.e. raw cotton that does not end up in yarn).

Maturity

As the cotton bre grows and matures, the cell wall

thickens. Fibre maturity is determined by the degree

of thickening of the cotton bre’s cell wall relative to

its perimeter. Fibre maturity can be affected by

lower than normal temperatures during bre

development and the timing of the harvest.

Medium farm:

BCI denes medium farms as Producer Units where

farmers are structurally dependent on permanent

hired labour. The typical farm size of such Producer

Units is between 20 and 200ha of cotton.

Micronaire

Micronaire is a combined measure of two different

bre attributes:

1. the thickness (neness) of the bre,

i.e. its diameter; and

2. the thickness (maturity) of the bre wall

(cotton being a hollow tube).

Fibre diameter is largely determined by genetics,

while bre wall thickness is determined by

environmental factors, such as late season stress.

Fibre neness is important to the spinner, as ne

cotton allows more bres per given cross-sectional

area of yarn, making for a stronger yarn. Low

micronaire (immature) bre creates problems as

it cause neps, and is likely to result in more short

bres and a lower length uniformity, all of which

have a detrimental effect on spinning mill efciency,

and on the quality of the yarn and fabric produced

from that cotton.

through engagement with these local communities

or indigenous peoples.

E.g. sacred burial grounds within a forest

management area or new agricultural plantation.

Honeydew

A sticky, sugar-rich waste excreted by aphids and

whiteies when feeding on the cotton plant. It can

adversely affect crop growth, and when present on

lint, cause difculties in bre processing (spinning).

Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

The careful consideration of all available pest

control techniques and subsequent integration

of appropriate measures that discourage the

development of pest populations and keep

pesticides and other interventions to economically

justied levels that reduce or minimise risks to

human health and the environment. IPM emphasises

the growth of a healthy crop with the least possible

disruption to agro-ecosystems and encourages

natural pest control mechanisms. (Source: The

United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organization’s

(UN FAO) International Code of Conduct on the

Distribution and Use of Pesticides (Revised Version,

2002).)

Large farms

BCI denes large farms as farms that are structurally

dependent on permanent hired labour. Farm size is

above 200ha of cotton.

Length

The length of the cotton bre. As with strength,

longer bres generally contribute to superior bre

quality. While staple length is primarily determined

by variety, seasonal factors may limit the ability of

the variety to produce its maximum possible staple

length. Critical stress factors for staple length

include high temperatures, severe moisture stress

and potassium deciency.

Annex 1: Terms and Denitions

139

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Organic matter

Carbon containing material in the soil derived

from living organisms.

Parasite

An organism that lives in or on another organism.

Parasitoid

Parasites of insects that kill the host insect.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Any specialist clothing, material or equipment

designed to provide protection against exposure

to pesticides.

Pesticide

Any substance or mixture of substances intended

for preventing, destroying or controlling any pest.

The term includes substances intended for use as

a plant growth regulator, defoliant, desiccant or

agent for thinning fruit or preventing the premature

fall of fruit, and substances applied to crops either

before or after harvest to protect the commodity

from deterioration during storage and transport.

(Source: FAO International Code of Conduct on the

Distribution and Use of Pesticides (Revised Version),

2002.)

The term includes insecticides, herbicides,

fungicides and acaricides, growth regulators,

defoliants, conditioners and desiccants, as well

as bio-pesticides. No distinction is made between

synthetic or natural substances that are applied

for any of these purposes.

A measure of acidity or alkalinity. Cotton prefers

soils with a pH of between 6 and 8.

Pheromone

A substance secreted by an organism that affects

the behaviour of the opposite sex of the same

species.

Natural habitat

A natural habitat is an area where the original

biodiversity remains largely undisturbed by human

activities. It may also include areas where once-

disturbed biodiversity has been restored or

regenerated by human or natural forces.

Naps

Large, relatively loose clumps of bres or matted

masses of bres (cf. neps). Generally, the term

‘nappy’ describes lint that is rough in appearance.

The formation of naps is often pronounced when

seed cotton is wet and when the seed roll in the gin

is too tight, causing faulty removal of bres.

Neps

Neps are small clusters or entanglements of bres,

and may fall into 1 of 3 categories:

1. biological neps

2. mechanical neps

3. white specks.

Neps may be caused by environmental factors or

processing; the exact level of contribution from each

source is unknown. The list of potential causes is

extensive, and includes immature bres, poor staple

length, moisture content, neness, mechanical

handling by the cotton picker and or gin, once-over

harvesting practices, premature defoliation, disease

and frost.

Longer and ner cotton bres are more prone to

form neps than shorter and coarser bres. Neps in

the cotton lint can translate into neps in the spun

yarn, which in turn can reduce the quality of the

yarn, as neps can result in white dots or specks in

nished fabric.

No Net Loss

While all conversion of natural landscapes will involve

some impact on biodiversity and ecosystems, it is

essential that projects seeking the BCI licence are

able to demonstrate No Net Loss of High Conservation

Value(s). No Net Loss in the BCI context is dened

as the point at which project-related impacts on

biodiversity are balanced by measures taken to avoid

and minimise the project’s impacts. Note that it is the

High Conservation Value that must be protected, not

necessarily a dened parcel of land.

Annex 1: Terms and Denitions

140

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Pupa / pupae

The life stage of an insect undergoing

transformation, e.g. between the caterpillar (larval)

and moth (adult) stages of the life cycle of the cotton

bollworm (plural: pupae).

Quality

The suite of characteristics of a cotton lot that

inuences its suitability for yarn and textile

processing. For the purposes of BCI, it includes

both intrinsic bre characteristics relating to its

length, strength, neness, maturity and colour,

as well as extrinsic properties, in particular

contamination.

Raw cotton (cotton lint)

The cotton bre separated from the seed cotton

during the ginning process. Each cotton bre is

a single cell that arises from the cotton seed.

Riparian buffer

A riparian buffer is a vegetated area (a ‘buffer strip’)

near a stream, usually forested, which helps to

shade and partially protect a stream from the impact

of adjacent land uses. It plays a key role in

increasing water quality in nearby streams, rivers,

and lakes, thus providing environmental benets.

With the decline of many aquatic ecosystems due

to agricultural production, riparian buffers have

become a very common conservation practice

aimed at increasing water quality and reducing

pollution.

Riparian land

The land surrounding water bodies, rivers, streams

etc.

Rotterdam Convention

The Rotterdam Convention on the Prior Informed

Consent Procedure (PIC) for certain hazardous

chemicals and pesticides was introduced in 1998.

It is designed to ensure that any international trade

Persistent Organic Pollutant (POP)

Persistent Organic Pollutants (per the Stockholm

Convention) are considered to constitute a serious

environmental hazard: they are extremely stable;

persist in the environment; accumulate in high

concentrations in fatty tissues; are bio-magnied

through the food chain; are transported in the

environment over long distances and have toxic

and chronic effects on humans and animals.

Preparation

A measure of the degree of roughness or

smoothness of ginned lint cotton. Generally, smooth

cotton will produce a smoother and more uniform

yarn, with less waste, than rougher cotton.

Producer

‘The Producer’ is dened as the person or entity

holding or applying for a BCI licence, and is

responsible for demonstrating compliance with

the requirements upon which BCI licensing is

based. It can be either the Producer Unit or

Implementing Partner for smallholders/medium

farms; or farming organisations in the case of large

farms.

Production Principles

Broad areas under the control of the farmer that he/

she must address in order to produce Better Cotton.

Producer Unit (PU)

A number of Learning Groups and/or large farm

employers (depending on their size) form a PU.

At PU level, self-assessment forms are compiled

and consolidated into a PU report by a dedicated

person (the ‘Documentation Ofcer’). The PU plays

an important role in Farm Assessment, as the PU

recommends to the BCI Regional Coordinator

whether a Learning Group or individual large farm

employer can sell Better Cotton. The size of a PU

will depend on local circumstances (e.g. farm size,

the volume of Better Cotton needed by the ginner

for a gin run). In the rst few years, the Implementing

Partner is likely to take on a number of roles that in

time will be performed by the PU. For individual

large farms, the PU may be the national organisation

representing producers.

Annex 1: Terms and Denitions

141

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

an HCV assessment). The assessment(s) should be

conducted by an independent body widely

recognised for its subject matter expertise. It is

recommended to utilise assessors licensed by an

accreditation scheme such as that provided by the

High Conservation Value Resource Network.

The assessment should ensure compliance of the

conversion project with applicable local legislation,

but also internationally recognised standards, where

such practice exceeds the requirements of local law.

Landscapes suitable for the production of cotton,

notably savannahs, are often rich in wildlife and/or

ora that should be taken into consideration prior to

implementing any land use change programme. It is

expected that the Environmental Impact Assessment

would contain an analysis of the wildlife (and

vegetation) in the extended region of planned

conversion. Similarly, appropriate safeguards for

rare, threatened or endangered species should be

implemented, wildlife corridors established, access

to water anticipated, workers provided with training

to protect such species, etc.

Sodic

Soil with excessive level of sodium. Sodic soils are

at an increased risk of structural instability, and may

adversely affect crop growth. Indicators of sodicity

include dispersion (the separation of sand silt and

clay) or wetting, waterlogging and crusting when dry.

Soil structure

Describes the arrangement of the soil particles:

their size, shape and stability, as well as the size,

shape and continuity of the spaces (pores) between

the soil particles.

Staple length

See Length.

Stickiness

Stickiness is caused by sugary deposits on the

bre left by either insects (e.g. honeydew from

aphids or whitey), or produced by the plant itself.

Spinning mills have nearly zero tolerance for

stickiness due the signicant damage sticky cotton

may cause to a spinning mill. The sugary deposits

adhere to the surfaces of the machinery in the spinning

mill, necessitating the shutdown of the mill to clean the

machinery, thereby increasing production costs.

of a substance that has been banned or had its use

severely restricted in any country does not proceed

without the prior consent of the government of the

country to which the substance is being exported.

Information on the particular hazards associated with

the substance, and methods for controlling the hazards

must be provided prior to consent being given.

Saline / Salinisation

Soil with a high salt content (the process of

becoming saline), especially sodium chloride. While

cotton is a relatively salt-tolerant crop, very saline

soils affect yields. The ability to grow some rotation

crops (for example legumes) may also be adversely

affected by saline soils. Indicators of salinity include:

poor crop growth, increasing numbers of salt-

tolerant weeds and prolonged soil wetness.

Seed coat fragments (SCF)

Parts of the seed coat that remain attached

to the bre after ginning; they are undesirable.

Seed cotton

The cotton lint, still attached to the cotton seed,

as harvested from the plant and prior to ginning.

Short bre content (SFC)

A measure of the number of bres below 12.7 mm /

0.5 inches in length. As with length uniformity,

the fewer short bres, the less waste cotton

generated, and the better the efciency of the

spinning mill. Yarn quality is also improved with

reduced short bre content. Mechanically harvested

cotton is more susceptible to having unacceptable

levels of short bres than hand-harvested cotton.

Smallholders

BCI denes smallholders as PUs where farmers are

not structurally dependent on permanent hired

labour. The typical farm size of such Producer Units

does not exceed 20ha of cotton.

Social and Environmental Impact Assessment (SEIA)

The core process that ensures these key issues

are given appropriate consideration is the

commissioning of an expert Social and

Environmental Impact Assessment (SEIA) (including

Annex 1: Terms and Denitions

142

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

mechanically harvested cotton. Even when cotton

is carefully harvested under ideal eld conditions,

it is very difcult not to include at least some trash.

Although much of the trash is removed in the

cleaning and drying processes during ginning,

it is impossible to remove all trash. Minimising trash

content is important, as it must be removed as

waste, accompanied by a loss of bre. Further,

small ne particles of trash that cannot be removed

detract from the quality and appearance of the

manufactured yarns and fabrics. In general,

cottons that contain the least amount of trash,

other conditions being equal, are those with the

highest spinning value.

Waterlogging

A prolonged period during which the plant roots

are under water, and which prevents oxygen being

available to the roots. It results in impaired water

and nutrient uptake by the plant, which in turn can

adversely affect crop growth and yield.

Water table

The point at which the ground is completely

saturated. Below this level, the pore spaces

between every grain of soil and rock crevice

completely ll with water.

World Health Organization (WHO) Class I

Those pesticides classied by the WHO as either

Extremely (1 a) or Highly (1 b) hazardous, based on

their acute toxicity (known as WHO Class 1 a and 1 b).

Withholding period

The time that must be allowed to elapse after the

application of a pesticide before the crop can be

harvested.

Workers

BCI denes workers as all waged employees of

cotton farmers, including migrant, temporary,

seasonal, sub-contracted and permanent workers.

This also includes family members employed

directly by cotton farmers.

Stockholm Convention

The Stockholm Convention on POPs provides for the

phasing out of production and use of persistent

organic pollutants. The following pesticides are

included on the list: aldrin, chlordane, chloredecone,

dieldrin, dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane (DDT),

endosulfan, endrin, heptachlor, hexachlorobenzene,

hexachlorocyclohexane, lindane, mirex and

toxaphene.

Strength

Strength is a measure of a bre sample’s resistance

to longitudinal stress. The stronger the bre, the

better, as there is a direct correlation between bre

strength and the quality of yarn and fabric. Strong

bres are necessary to allow today’s high-speed

spinning mills to operate at maximum capacity and

efciency. Fibre strength is a varietal characteristic,

and is less inuenced by adverse growing

conditions than length and micronaire.

Tailwater

Water that has drained from the surface of the cotton

eld.

Tillage

Mechanical manipulation of the soil.

Trash, trash content

Cotton leaf material found in seed cotton or cotton

lint. Trash content refers to the level of leaf in the

ginned cotton. A balance needs to be struck

between the level of trash removed during ginning

and the subsequent adverse effects on bre quality

of increased cleaning to remove more trash.

The more cleaning cycles employed, the greater

the damage to the bre, in particular bre breakage,

which leads to increased short bre content. Poor

defoliation is a major contributor to excess trash

in the cotton, and rank growth must be managed

to minimise the risk of excess trash content. Seed

cotton usually contains varying amounts of trash,

depending on harvesting method; hand-picked

cotton is much less contaminated by trash than

Annex 1: Terms and Denitions

143

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining

Convention, 1949 (No. 98)

This fundamental convention provides that

measures appropriate to national conditions shall be

taken, where necessary, to encourage and promote

the full development and utilisation of mechanisms

for voluntary negotiation between employers or

employers’ organisations and workers’

organisations. The aim is to regulate the terms and

conditions of employment by means of collective

agreements.

2. The Abolition of Forced Labour

Forced Labour Convention, 1930 (No. 29)

This fundamental convention prohibits all forms

of forced or compulsory labour, which is dened

as ‘all work or service which is exacted from any

person under the menace of any penalty and for

which the said person has not offered himself/herself

voluntarily’. Exceptions include: work required by

compulsory military service; normal civic obligations;

as a consequence of a conviction in a court of law

(provided that the work or service in question is

conducted under the supervision and control of a

public authority and that the person conducting it

is not hired to or placed at the disposal of private

individuals, companies or associations); in cases

of emergency, and for minor communal services

performed by the members of a community in the

direct interest of the community. The convention

also requires that the illegal extraction of forced or

compulsory labour be punishable as a penal

offence, and that ratifying states ensure that the

relevant penalties imposed by law are adequate

and strictly enforced.

Abolition of Forced Labour Convention,

1957 (No. 105)

This fundamental convention prohibits forced or

compulsory labour as a means of political coercion

or education, or as a punishment for holding or

expressing political views or views ideologically

opposed to the established political, social or

economic system; as a method of mobilising and

using labour for purposes of economic

development; as a means of labour discipline;

as a punishment for having participated in strikes; or

CORE CONVENTIONS

The ILO has declared eight Conventions as

fundamental to workers’ rights worldwide: these

are summarised below. The eight Conventions

relate to four major international labour standards:

1. Workers everywhere should have the right to

organise in trade unions and negotiate their

working conditions collectively.

2. Workers should be free from any form of forced

labour, such as slavery, servitude, compulsory

labour for political re-education, or debt indenture.

3. Children, meaning people below the age of 15

(or as dened by national law), should not work

so that they have the opportunity to learn and

develop freely.

4. Discrimination on the grounds of gender, race,

nationality, religion, political opinion or social

origin is banned, as is discrimination in

remuneration on the grounds of gender.

The eight ILO core conventions are international

standards that apply to industrial countries as much

as to developing countries (but are addressed to

member states, not private sector actors). Because

the ILO Core Conventions are essential labour

standards, they have been integrated into a range

of guidelines for companies, such as the UN Global

Compact and the Organisation for Economic

Co-operation and Development (OECD) Guidelines

for Multinational Enterprises.

1. Freedom of Association

Freedom of Association and Protection of the

Right to Organise Convention, 1948 (No.87)

This fundamental convention sets forth the right

for workers and employers to establish and join

organisations of their own choosing without previous

authorisation. Workers’ and employers’ organisations

shall organise freely and not be liable to be

dissolved or suspended by administrative authority.

They shall have the right to establish and join

federations and confederations, which may in turn

afliate with international organisations of workers

and employers.

Annex 2: Summary of Relevant ILO Conventions

144

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

work), where the economy and educational facilities

are insufciently developed.

Worst Forms of Child Labour Convention,

1999 (No. 182)

This fundamental convention denes a ‘child’ as a

person under 18 years of age. It requires ratifying

states to eliminate the worst forms of child labour,

including all forms of slavery or practices similar

to slavery, such as the sale and trafcking of

children, debt bondage and serfdom and forced or

compulsory labour, including forced or compulsory

recruitment of children for use in armed conict;

child prostitution and pornography; using children

for illicit activities, in particular for the production

and trafcking of drugs; and work which is likely

to harm the health, safety or morals of children.

The convention requires ratifying states to provide

the necessary and appropriate direct assistance

for the removal of children from the worst forms of

child labour and for their rehabilitation and social

integration. It also requires states to ensure access

to free basic education and, wherever possible and

appropriate, vocational training for children removed

from the worst forms of child labour.

5. ILO Conventions Applicable

Solely to Agriculture

In addition to the ILO Core Conventions cited

above, there are some Conventions relating

exclusively to agricultural work.

Plantations Convention, 1958 (No.110)

This convention covers the recruitment and

engagement of migrant workers and affords

protection to plantation workers in respect of

employment contracts, wages, working time,

medical care, maternity protection, employment

accident compensation, freedom of association,

labour inspection, and housing.

Rural Workers’ Organisations Convention,

1975 (No.141)

All categories of rural workers, whether they are

wage earners or self-employed, shall have the right

to establish and, subject only to the rules of the

organisation concerned, to join organisations of their

as a means of racial, social, national or religious

discrimination. Additionally, forced or compulsory

labour is considered as one of the worst forms of

child labour under the Worst Forms of Child Labour

Convention, 1999 (No. 182).

3. Equality

Equal Remuneration Convention, 1951 (No. 100)

This fundamental convention requires ratifying

countries to ensure the application to all workers

of the principle of equal remuneration for men and

women workers for work of equal value. The term

‘remuneration’ is broadly dened to include the

ordinary, basic or minimum wage or salary and any

additional emoluments payable directly or indirectly,

whether in cash or in kind, by the employer to the

worker and arising out of the worker’s employment.

Discrimination (Employment and Occupation)

Convention, 1958 (No. 111)

This fundamental convention denes discrimination

as any distinction, exclusion or preference made

on the basis of race, colour, sex, religion, political

opinion, national extraction or social origin, which

has the effect of nullifying or impairing equality

of opportunity or treatment in employment or

occupation. It requires ratifying states to declare

and pursue a national policy designed to promote,

by methods appropriate to national conditions and

practice, equality of opportunity and treatment in

respect of employment and occupation, with a view

to eliminating any discrimination in these elds.

This includes discrimination in relation to access to

vocational training, access to employment and to

particular occupations, and terms and conditions

of employment.

4. The Elimination of Child Labour

Minimum Age Convention, 1973 (No. 138)

This fundamental convention sets the general

minimum age for admission to employment or work

at 15 years (13 for light work) and the minimum age

for hazardous work at 18 (16 under certain strict

conditions). It provides for the possibility of initially

setting the general minimum age at 14 (12 for light

Annex 2: Summary of Relevant ILO Conventions

145

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

6. Indigenous and Tribal Peoples’

Rights

Indigenous and Tribal Peoples Convention,

1989 (No. 169)

Convention No.169 is a legally binding international

instrument open to ratication, which deals

specically with the rights of indigenous and tribal

peoples. Today, it has been ratied by 22 countries.

Once it raties the Convention, a country has one

year to align legislation, policies and programmes

to the Convention before it becomes legally binding.

Countries that have ratied the Convention are

subject to supervision with regard to its

implementation.

own choosing, without prior authorisation. The

principles of freedom of association shall be fully

respected; rural workers’ organisations shall be

independent and voluntary in character, and shall

remain free from all interference, coercion or

repression. National policy shall facilitate the

establishment and growth, on a voluntary basis,

of strong and independent organisations of rural

workers as an effective means of ensuring the

participation of these workers in economic and

social development.

Annex 2: Summary of Relevant ILO Conventions

146

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Annex 3: BCI Categorisation of Farmers

Labour Farm Size** Learning

Groups

Results

Indicators

Self-

Assess-

ment &

licensing

2nd Party

Credibility

Check

3rd Party

veri-

cation

Small-

holders

Producer Unit

where farmers

are not

structurally

dependent

on permanent

hired labour*

Farm size

within the

Producer

Unit does

not exceed

20ha of

cotton

Yes Sampling-

based

approach

+ Control

groups

Producer

Unit level

(through

Internal

Manage-

ment

System)

Yes

(sampling)

Yes

(sampling)

Medium

farms

Producer Unit

where farmers

are structurally

dependent

on permanent

hired labour

Farm size

within the

Producer

Unit is

between 20

to 200ha

of cotton

No Data

collected

from all

farms +

control

groups

Producer

Unit level

(through

Internal

Manage-

ment

System)

Yes

(sampling)

Yes

(sampling)

Large

farms

Farmers who

are structurally

dependent

on permanent

hired labour

Farm size

is above

200ha

of cotton

No Data

collected

from all

farms +

control

groups

Individual

level

No Yes

(all farms)

* Labour arrangements in smallholder category may include (by order of importance): family/own labour

(most common form), temporary/seasonal labour for specic activities, or permanent labour (in some limited cases).

** In the case where (1) there is an extreme minority of growers in a different category (for a particular PU, project or country), (2)

the cultivated area of a particular farmer changes from year to year across categories: common sense should be applied by the

partner for the categorisation of farmers and conrmed by BCI before the start of the growing season.

147

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

To respond to this challenge and to contribute

to learning, BCI has created a standardised set

of categories for the farmers and workers active

in cotton production around the world. The aim is

to harmonise understanding and ensure all workers

at farm level are effectively included in the Better

Cotton Standard System.

This set of categories is for the purposes of

improved consistency across BCI’s partners and

stakeholders in different countries and contexts,

and based on functional roles. The categories, while

following International Labour Organisation

recommendations, do not have legal ramications,

i.e. participants are not required to disclose legal

landholding or ofcial immigration status. The

categories are envisioned to support BCI and its

partners in more precisely identifying their

participants and beneciaries to optimise project

planning and implementation and ultimately achieve

meaningful impact.

The document will rst dene the categories of

Farmers and Workers, then explain the process for

categorising each and creating a labour prole.

2. The Categories

2.1 Farmers

Farmers are at the heart of Better Cotton. They either

participate in the BCSS directly, if a large operation,

or through participation in a Producer Unit – a

group of farms that receives support from a BCI

Implementing Partner. Responsibility for ensuring

compliance with the Standard lies with what BCI

refers to as ‘The Producer’. The Producer is

responsible for decisions and production/

management activities related to cotton production.

To enable the Standard to be applied to various

production settings, BCI distinguishes between

three categories of Producer: large farm, medium

farm Producer Unit, and smallholder farm Producer

Unit. The two main factors for categorising

Producers are: 1) the area under cotton cultivation

and 2) labour requirements.

1. Introduction

The Better Cotton Standard System is implemented

at farm level. Thus, the primary actors and expected

beneciaries of the implementation of the Standard

are the farmers and workers and their families

who derive all or a portion of their livelihoods from

the cultivation of the cotton crop. Cotton is grown

in approximately 80 countries on ve continents

with widely varied farm management approaches

across countries. Labour requirements are

incredibly diverse, ranging from employment of

just a few workers in highly mechanised operations

to uctuating needs in labour-intensive contexts, in

particular where harvest is done by hand. In addition

to the variation in farm management and labour

requirements around the world, there is a strong

presence of unregulated agricultural workers

operating in the informal economy. These are some

of the most vulnerable people on the planet, earning

precarious livelihoods and at increased risk for

exploitation and abuse.

Determining who participates in the Better Cotton

Standard System (BCSS), and how, is inevitably

complex. The BCSS requires one individual, the

Farmer, to take responsibility for implementation of

the Standard requirements. The system then directly

addresses farm workers in two distinct ways. First,

the Standard includes requirements on occupational

health and safety (e.g. safe pesticide application);

and second, through a Decent Work principle,

concerned with the provision of opportunities for

women and men to work productively in conditions

of freedom, equity, security, and human dignity.

It is challenging to identify, in a consistent manner,

what types of individuals are considered workers

and who should be included as direct participants

in and beneciaries of BCI projects. There is the

potential for individuals or entire groups of people

to be excluded from training or other activities

either required by or encouraged by the Standard,

particularly if they are deemed difcult to reach

(e.g. migrant workers hired by a labour contractor)

or until now rather invisible to actors in the cotton

sector (e.g. the wife of a smallholder cotton farmer

who performs key tasks like storing and disposing

of pesticide containers).

The detailed explanation of the BCI Producer Categorisation can be found as an annex to the BCI Assurance Program.

Annex 4:

Categorising farmers & workers

in the Better Cotton Standard System

148

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

have in the crop. Generally, a tenant or sharecropper

participating as a Farmer in BCI projects will share

input costs and be primarily responsible for

production practices; one participating as a Worker

will contribute minimal nancial resources and have

limited decision making power.

2.3 Workers

As discussed in the introduction, manual labour

in the cotton sector (like in many agricultural

production contexts) is highly varied. Also, in some

countries, farm labour practices are subject to

extremely limited regulation, if any, leaving

thousands or even millions of people to earn their

livelihoods in an informal manner with few

protections.

According to the ILO, waged agricultural workers

are women and men who labour in crop elds to

produce the world’s food and bres. They are

employed on small- and medium-sized farms as

well as large industrialised farms and plantations.

They are waged workers because they do not own

or rent the land on which they work nor the tools

and equipment they use

and so are a group distinct

from farmers.

BCI also includes unpaid family labourers in its

denition of workers; the Better Cotton Standard

requires certain health and safety conditions for

anyone performing tasks on the cotton eld (e.g.

pesticide application or harvesting seed cotton),

regardless of whether or how they are remunerated.

This inclusion of unpaid family workers enables a

more nuanced and accurate global understanding

of the people involved in cotton production across

varied contexts, and who are suitably covered by

the Standard.

People who work in cotton production come from

diverse backgrounds and varying terminology is

used around the world to describe them. To better

understand the cotton labour landscape at the

Figure 1, below, demonstrates how Producers,

responsible for compliance and participation in

the Assurance Programme, are categorised into

one of three types. Depending on the type of

Producer, there may be just one farm (large farm),

several (medium farm Producer Unit), or many

(smallholder farm Producer Unit).

For the purposes of the Assurance Programme,

BCI recognises one individual per farm, dened

as the Participating Farmer: the one individual

with primary decision-making responsibility for

the cultivation of the cotton crop on a farm who

is participating in a BCI Project.

Figure 1: Three categories of BCI Producer

in BCI Assurance Programme

2.2 Tenants and Sharecroppers

The ILO

denes individuals as tenants and

sharecroppers (the term used by BCI to cover

all similar types) if they meet any of the following

criteria:

• Pay a xed rent in cash, in kind, in labour,

or in a combination of these.

• Pay rent in kind consisting of an agreed share

of the product.

BCI considers tenants and sharecroppers to have a

prole distinct from that of farmers or workers. They

participate in the BCSS, however, as either a Farmer

or a Worker, depending on the extent to which they

have decision-making power over the farm-level

production practices and the nancial stake they

ILO document discussing Recommendation 132 (1968) on Tenants and Sharecroppers.

http://www.ilo.org/dyn/normlex/en/f?p=NORMLEXPUB:12100:0::NO::P12100_INSTRUMENT_ID:312470

In cotton production, specialised workers like pesticide applicators may own or rent the equipment they use.

International Labour Organisation, http://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---ed_dialogue/---actrav/documents/publication/

wcms_113732.pdf, page 23.

PRODUCER

Entity responsible

for compliance

with the Better

Cotton Standard

Large Farm

Medium Farm

Producer Unit

Smallholder Farm

Producer Unit

The Producer

is categorised

as one of

three types

1 large farm,

1 Farmer

Several farms,

1 Farmer/farm

Many farms,

1 Farmer/

per farm

Annex 4:

Categorising farmers & workers

in the Better Cotton Standard System

149

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Member of Local Community

These are workers who live in the cotton producing

area. They may work on their own land to grow

crops and perform temporary work on others’ cotton

elds to supplement their income. They may be

skilled workers operating machinery or acting in

a management capacity. They may be landless

community members performing unskilled or

semi-skilled tasks, working in elds to earn their

livelihood.

In some contexts, smallholder cotton farmers

participating in BCI projects may work on others’

cotton elds at specic points during the season.

While they may not constitute a group requiring

additional training or services because they access

those as a farmer, BCI would like to capture this if

it is an important factor in a local labour force. BCI

does therefore consider them in the labour prole

of an area, as a separate group called ‘Community

Shared Labour’. BCI makes the assumption that in

a given Producer area, the majority of smallholder

farmers providing shared labour would also be

participating as BCI farmers.

Migrant

Migrant workers are found in all types of employment

relationships as temporary, seasonal, or permanent

workers. They may be from a different part of the

same country, or resident foreigners. BCI’s intent

behind categorising workers as migrants, when

pertinent, is to ensure their visibility in the system so

they have access to relevant training and services.

In some cases, migrants may be disadvantaged in

terms of pay, social protection, housing, or medical

care. BCI’s interest is in ensuring that Farmers

striving to meet the Standard provide adequate

protection and services to all of their workers.

For BCI’s purposes, the distinction of migrant does

not need to match ofcial immigration status. For

example, a full-time permanent worker originally

from one country who has been employed on the

same cotton farm for 15 years will likely be

categorised as a member of the local community,

even if s/he holds the nationality of his or her country

of origin.

global level, BCI considers three factors to help

standardise how the labour force is discussed:

I. Relation to farming community

II. Length and timing of work

III. Work arrangement

2.3.1 Relation to Farming Community

Workers fall into different categories based on their

role in the community: family, member of the local

community, or migrant. BCI Implementing Partners

should take this factor into consideration in order to

ensure, for example, that family members are

included in appropriate training (especially spouses

or adult sons or daughters of farmers in smallholder

contexts), or that migrants or other potentially

vulnerable groups do not experience discrimination

of wages or access to important health and safety

precautions.

Family

Family workers can include the spouse (husband

or wife of a farmer) or extended family, like cousins.

Family workers may live permanently or temporarily

with the farmer. In the case of family smallholdings,

children 13 years or older may help on their family’s

farm provided that the work does not threaten their

health, safety, well-being, education, or development,

and that they are supervised by adults and given

appropriate training. Children under 18 cannot

participate in hazardous tasks (including pesticide

application).

Family workers may or may not receive remuneration.

Members of the nuclear family may contribute to

the family farming enterprise and do not receive

cash wages (i.e. Unpaid Family Workers, which is

included in the typology as a discrete group), while

more distant relatives might work for cash or other

in-kind support.

If a family member is formally employed by a farm

s/he would not be considered an Unpaid Family

Worker, rather counted as an ofcial employee from

the local community. This is an important distinction

as it may affect Producer categorisation, i.e. whether

farms are considered dependent on hired labour.

For a detailed explanation of what children participating in light farm work are able to do in the context of family smallholdings,

see pages 36-39 of Better Cotton Production Principles and Criteria Explained.

Annex 4:

Categorising farmers & workers

in the Better Cotton Standard System

150

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

2.3.2 Length and Timing of Work

The descriptions in the table below apply to any

farm, regardless of BCI Producer category –

smallholder producer unit, medium farm producer

unit, or large. They also apply to any range of tasks

2.3.3 Work Arrangement

There are two ways workers may be hired – directly

by the farmer or sub-contracted through a labour

contractor.

Direct

These workers are hired directly by the farmer, or in

large operations, by the farm. In either case, the

worker communicates directly with the farmer (or

delegated employee) and receives remuneration

and training from them.

Sub-Contracted

There is no commonly agreed, international

denition of labour contracting. It is associated

with what the ILO terms a ’triangular employment

relationship’, in which the legal employer is separate

from the person for whom work is carried out.

While this mechanism can be benecial to farmers

in supplying a labour force for specic needs during

the cotton season beyond the locally available

labour supply, sub-contracted workers may be at

particular risk of economic exploitation through high

fees, loans with unfavourable terms, or others.

Workers from the local community and migrants who

travel to another area for work may be hired by

labour contractors. There are several mechanisms

through which sub-contracted workers may be hired

and managed:

• Labour contractor supplies workers to a farmer

for a fee, and the farmer becomes the direct

employer.

• Labour contractor supplies workers to a farmer.

The agent pays the workers (taking a percentage),

but the farmer supervises the workers.

• Labour contractor supplies workers to a farmer on

the basis of a contract for specic task, for which

payment is made (e.g. clearing a eld or cotton

harvest); the agent or contractor pays the workers

and supervises their work.

• Informal contractor – an individual (often a worker)

who recruits other workers for a farm or factory,

may also be a worker or ex-worker, and receives

a payment or unofcially takes a deduction from

wages.

performed by the Worker, including but not limited

to land preparation, sowing, applying pesticides,

nutrient management, trimming, weeding, or

harvesting.

http://hummedia.manchester.ac.uk/institutes/gdi/publications/workingpapers/bwpi/bwpi-wp-15311.pdf

Adapted from Ibid, this typology is based on investigation of labour contracting systems in South Africa, India, and the UK.

Type Description

Permanent

Working 12 months a year. May or may not be 100% dedicated to cotton.

Such workers will often support production of other crops within the wider farm area.

Seasonal

Working during the cotton season – 3-7 months a year.

Temporary

Working on a short-term basis, normally paid a daily or hourly wage (or piece-rate

in the case of picking). In some countries, ‘Temporary’ and ‘Casual’ workers have

different legal statuses. For BCI purposes, these are one category, which is labelled

Temporary.

Annex 4:

Categorising farmers & workers

in the Better Cotton Standard System

151

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

BCI acknowledges the complexity faced by its

partners and participating farmers in effectively

reaching contracted labour. The Standard’s Decent

Work requirements means participating farmers

must take responsibility for ensuring all workers

access relevant training and can fully exercise their

rights.

3. Process for Categorising

Farmers and Workers

3.1 Farmers

Consistent with the denition in section 2.1 above,

an individual is considered a farmer participating in

the Better Cotton Standard System if s/he:

• Voluntarily participates in the BCSS and is the

point person for Assurance Programme activities

• Is the primary decision-maker on the farm

The farmer is not required to own the land on which

s/he cultivates cotton. Any of the following may

apply:

• Owns the land

• Rents the land

• Has access to the land through customary rights

• Given responsibility to manage the land

In the large industrialised farm context, multiple

legal farming entities may be grouped into one farm

under the same management and using the same

workforce. One person would be given responsibility

to represent the farm.

In some countries, a man and woman in a couple

share the farming duties and decision-making

responsibilities. One individual is named as the

Farmer and the other a Co-Farmer, which is to

be reected in the Producer’s Farmer List. The

Co-Farmer category is explicitly designed to

highlight contexts in which men and women work

together as equal farming partners; otherwise, in

many places the male would be registered and

the female’s contribution to farm management would

not be visible.

The person designated as the Farmer will interact

with the BCI Assurance Programme to be

considered for a Better Cotton Licence – either

directly as in a large farm Producer or as part of a

Producer Unit if in the smallholder or medium farm

context.

If an individual does not meet the above criteria,

but s/he participates in the cultivation of cotton on

the farm registered with BCI, the person is likely a

Worker and will be categorised based on the

process described in section 3.3.

3.2 Tenants and Sharecroppers

Consistent with section 2.2, tenants and

sharecroppers

are individuals who are engaged in

cotton cultivation and rent the land on which they

operate with cash, in-kind work, or by sharing a

portion of the cotton produced. They may be distinct

from farmers and workers, but are considered by

the Better Cotton Standard System as either a

Farmer or a Worker.

• If classied as a Farmer, the tenant or

sharecropper is accountable for ensuring labour

rights of any workers assisting in cotton

production on their farmed land as outlined in

the Decent Work Principle.

• If classied as a Worker, this will require the

landowner (or farm manager) to participate in

the BCI project as a Farmer and that individual

is responsible for ensuring the tenant’s or

sharecropper’s labour rights as outlined in the

Decent Work Principle (along with ensuring the

labour rights of all other workers of various proles

on the farm).

Due to the diversity of farming contexts around the

world, BCI is unable to recommend one methodology

for categorising this group of actors. The responsibility

of categorising tenants and sharecroppers as either

a Farmer or Worker therefore rests with the Producer

Unit Manager for PUs. BCI Country Managers can

advise on cases that are not easily categorised, and

will proactively engage PUs to ensure categorisation

is consistent.

Annex 4:

Categorising farmers & workers

in the Better Cotton Standard System

152

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

Annex 4:

Categorising farmers & workers

in the Better Cotton Standard System

3.3 Workers

The standardised typology of Workers can be

compared within and across countries. The Better

Cotton Standard and associated capacity building

delivered by BCI Implementing Partners can therefore

reach Workers more consistently around the world.

Categorising Workers according to BCI’s typology

requires considering the three primary factors of

employment in the following order. The associated

Using this process, we understand that in a particular

Producer Unit, Large Farm, province, or country, the

labour force engaged in cotton cultivation will be

comprised of a combination of the following worker

types:

1. Unpaid family worker (1)

2. Local community – Permanent –

Direct hire (2-A-i)

3. Local community – Seasonal – Direct hire (2-B-i)

4. Local community – Seasonal –

Sub-contracted (2-B-ii)

5. Local community – Temporary –

Direct hire (2-C-i)

6. Local community – Temporary –

Sub-contracted (2-C-ii)

7. Migrant – Permanent – Direct hire (3-A-i)

8. Migrant – Seasonal – Direct hire (3-B-i)

9. Migrant – Seasonal – Sub-contracted (3-B-ii)

10. Migrant – Temporary – Direct hire (3-C-i)

11. Migrant – Temporary – Su b-contracted (3-C-ii)

12. Community shared labour (4)

When a labour prole is created, BCI requires

disaggregation by sex to ensure appropriate

program planning and data analysis.

The full set of options are depicted in the table below.

denitions and their identifying code are in

parentheses.

• Relation to farming community

(1- Unpaid family worker, 2- Local community,

3- Migrant)

• Length and timing of work

(A- Permanent, B- Seasonal, C-Temporary)

• Work arrangement

(i- Direct hire, ii- Sub-contracted)

BCI Worker Typology Family (1) Local Community (2) Migrant (3)

Unpaid (-)

Permanent (A)

Seasonal (B)

Temporary (C)

Community Shared Labour

3-A-i

3-B-i

2-A-i

2-B-i

2-C-i

2-A-ii 3-A-ii

2-B-ii 3-B-ii

2-C-ii 3-C-ii

3-C-i

153

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

1. Background

Responding to and developing solutions to tackle

climate change is increasingly expected from all

sectors of the society and the economy. Agriculture,

in particular, has come into focus due to the critical

role played by the soil in regulating the Earth’s

climate. By removing carbon dioxide (CO2) from

the atmosphere, the soil forms the world’s largest

terrestrial storage of atmospheric carbon. Equally,

when soils are degraded, large amounts of carbon

are released into the atmosphere. The destruction

and degradation of soil worldwide through

unsustainable farming accounts for a higher share

of global CO2 emissions than the entire transport

sector. Likewise, poor management of fertilisers

also generates considerable amounts of nitrous

oxide emissions, in addition to the greenhouse gas

(GHG) emissions associated with the production

of fertilisers and biocides. Biomass burning is also

responsible for a large amount of methane

emissions. Large open res are used by farmers

to destroy crop waste and clear land for agricultural

or other uses. These emissions contribute to the

greenhouse effect, increasing the risk of climate

change.

Further, relationships between climatic variability

and yield are relatively strong in the context of

cotton farming, meaning cotton production is

vulnerable to climate change. Higher temperatures

will eventually reduce yields and increase the

prevalence of pests and diseases. Changes in

precipitation are likely to lead to crop failures and

production declines. While there will be some gains

depending on crops grown and regions, the overall

impacts on agriculture are expected to be negative,

thus threatening global cotton production.

Sustainable cotton production can make a

signicant contribution to a low-cost global

mitigation agenda, providing synergies with

adaptation and sustainable development. Mitigation

options include: managing soil, water, energy,

nutrients, tillage, inputs and residues more

sustainably; improving agronomic and IPM practices

and enhancing the sequestration of carbon in soils.

Adaptation measures include: technical measures

such as changing the intensication of production;

alternative tillage and irrigation; socio-economic

measures such as improved access to nance and

insurance; (horizontal) organisation of producers

and (vertical) partnerships in the supply chain, and

ultimately diversifying crops and/or livelihoods.

Therefore, sustainable agriculture also involves

considering carbon cycles and should aim to

maintain or restore carbon stocks. Well-managed

cotton production areas are more resilient, can more

readily adapt to climate change and provide a wide

range of social, environmental and economic

benets. It is therefore imperative for farmers to

manage cotton farms in a responsible manner.

Approaches to reduce GHG emissions and adapt to

climate change include: protecting non-agricultural

lands from conversion to other land uses such as

agriculture when relevant; introducing management

practices that maintain the integrity of soils, and

restoring largely degraded soils and vegetation in

critical habitats (riversides, slopes).

2. How BCI addresses Climate Change

2.1 Climate change adaptation

within the BCI Principles and Criteria

Climate change adaptation is the adjustment in

natural or human systems in response to actual

or expected climatic evolution and its effects.

BCI acknowledges that it is a necessity for cotton

farmers to adjust to climate change (including

climate variability and extremes) and moderate

potential damage, and to take advantage of

opportunities or cope with the consequences, as

they are exposed to more unexpected or unforeseen

changes in rainfall patterns and availability of

(irrigation) water. As they are exposed to increased

risk, more robust adaptation plans are required to

manage these additional risks.

Annex 5: Climate Change Mitigation and Adaptation

Within the BCI Principles and Criteria

154

BETTER COTTON PRINCIPLES & CRITERIA – VERSION 2.1

The principal adaptation strategies are:

Technical

– Using management systems that are effective

under a broad range of soil and climatic

conditions; requires systematic measurement

of inputs and their GHG footprints as well as

environmental resources mapping, leading to

tangible, ‘climate smart’ management decisions

or production. (Criteria 2.1, 3.1, 4.1)

– Reversing land degradation through the

adoption of a sustainable land use change

approach, so that high carbon density areas

are protected from signicant loss. (Criterion

4.2)

– Promoting the efcient capture, storage and

utilisation of rainfall through the adoption of

appropriate water conservation practices, the

provision of irrigation, and the use of systems

and practices with high use efciency,

including upstream natural vegetation and

aquifer or groundwater recharge areas in cotton

growing regions. (Criterion 2.1)

– Maintaining soil fertility and productivity by

arresting nutrient mining and building or

sustaining soil fertility. Increased levels of soil

organic matter can help make agricultural soils

resilient to the stresses of climate change. In

particular, the moisture and nutrient retention

properties of soils with higher carbon content

can help agricultural lands remain productive

as climates become drier. Higher soil carbon

content also reduces the erodibility of soils and

the presence of a mulch or straw cover

conserves moisture, fosters healthy soil

organisms and reduces raindrop impact and

therefore erosion. (Criteria 3.1 to 3.3)

– Guarding against pest and disease pressure

using early warning systems and IPM, as well

as crop rotation and diversication. (Criterion 1.1)

Socio-economic

– Enhancing the resilience of communities

by encouraging producer organisations and

improving their efciency. (Criterion 6.9)

– Ensuring (BCI) farmers integrate and participate

with other natural resources users, government

and civil society into collective action.

(Criteria 2.1, 3.1, 4.1, 4.2)

2.2 Climate change mitigation

within the BCI Principles and Criteria

Climate change mitigation involves reducing the

level of greenhouse gases (GHG) in the atmosphere

or enhancing their sinks, e.g. by reducing the use

of fossil fuels, planting trees, or enhancing the

mineralisation of organic matter into soil organic

carbon.

In the context of cotton production, the use of good

management practices can substantially reduce

GHG emissions:

– Improving fertiliser management to ensure

optimal nitrogen oxide use and ultimately

mitigate the resulting emissions. Increasing the

nitrogen efciency also decreases leakage into

the environment and contamination of surface

and ground water. (Criterion 3.1)

– Managing soil carbon to increase carbon

stocks through appropriate practices including:

tillage, residue management and erosion

control. Increasing the soil organic matter of

soils also improves the soil fertility, reduces

erosion, increases moisture retention and can

lead to increased yields. (Criterion 3.1)

Annex 5: Climate Change Mitigation and Adaptation

Within the BCI Principles and Criteria